Where to…Eat, Now?

Life in San Francisco is hectic enough. Between our jobs, zumba-pilates-yoga-triathalontraining, family life, friends, fetishes and foundations who really has the time to keep on top of the restaurant scene? Obviously this is one of my greatest passions and I still find myself getting scooped or unawares of the next great food truck, pop up or dining hot spot. I can only imagine how daunting it is for people with normal time or interest.

Still, we’re a food obsessed town. Everyone wants to try out the latest Beard-nominated phenom. When your friends come to town from Paris, you just want to give them that insider experience – don’t you? But where to begin? How can you keep on top of things without spending days combing the interwebs looking for relevant information. And who can you trust?

Following is a breakdown of my favorite ways to get information about dining in San Francisco. But frankly, I think most of the resources I use are national, so if you find yourself in New York, Chicago or LA, this could easily be applicable.

THE LIST
For the aforementioned ‘friends in town’ scenario – the best place to start is at our dear old friend sf.eater.com. On the “38 Essential San Francisco Restaurants” page, superstar editor Carolyn Alburger painstakingly updates monthly the “in” places in the Bay. She even comments on why places are added or removed. It’s really the greatest resource we have for knowing where you ‘should’ be eating. There’s even a handy map if you’re trying to zero in on a neighborhood. Her list requires that a restaurant be open at least six months, so I don’t consider this the cutting edge I often seek. It’s more of a safe bet.

THE HEAT MAP
For more of the cutting edge, Ms. Alburger has created the spectacular, indispensable “Eater Heat Map” where “More often than not, tipsters, readers, friends and family of Eater have one question: Where should I eat right now?” The question is deftly answered with the places that have buzz. While this list might cause debate amongst die-hard obsessives, it’s a great resource for most enthusiasts.

THE NEWSLETTER
Tablehopper is a newsletter that is published weekly by  Marcia Gagliardi, the queen bee of the Bay Area food scene. A subscription to her newsletter is an essential part of being-in-the-know. The minute something opens Marcia is there and reporting. She also keeps an updated list of 10 Places to Eat at Now that comes in handy on a search. In fact, if you compare it to the eater lists, places with overlap are a sure bet [wink wink].

NO RESERVATIONS
Opentable is not only good for getting reservations, but in many cases, I prefer the reviews here over Yelp. They tend to be concise and trend in directions that can help you make choices (I’ll comment about Yelp below). But most importantly, we often don’t plan enough in advance to score reservations at places like Flour+Water and Frances. With Opentable, you can see what is available as you comb the lists above. I will often plug in my date / time and scan the available reservations before making a decision.

MESSAGE BOARD
Chowhound is daunting. Unless you are prepared to navigate miles of message boards to find the pearl of wisdom you seek, you might want to try a different approach. If I am looking for something specific, like “Best Pizza in San Francisco” I will add “chowhound” to my google search and scan the lively debates. What I’ll often find is that a thread will go on forever, but clear consensus forms, from which I can make a pretty solid decision. This has been my savior when seeking whitefish salad in New York, Deli in LA and hot dogs / pizza in Chicago.

NO WAY, JOSE
Time to Yelp bash a little. I don’t see much value in Yelp. When people are moved to post to Yelp, I question their motivation. I’m guessing it is typically when they have an experience that moves them to action, whether positive, negative or neutral, depending on the person themselves. But, what do we know about these people? And how are their opinions relevant to us? I could try to glean information from their profile or previous posts, but thats simply too much work. I often find that I don’t get much help out of Yelp in actually making decisions. Sorry for the non-sequitor here, but I think it’s relevant.

BLOGS, GLORIOUS BLOGS
Lastly, the Bay Area is littered with media outlets and blogs, like my own, that can help you find some solid information. Here is a list of some of my favorites:

7×7 Eat + Drink
San Francisco Magazine Eat & Drink
SFGate Food
SFBG Food & Drink
SFWeekly Foodie
Bay Are Bites KQED
Grub Street SF
Cooking with Amy
Bay Are Foodie
YUM SFStation
KelsEats 

Now that I’ve added to the inundation of your life, I leave you with my favorite Dr. Suess, as it relates to seeking restaurants, from “Oh, the Places You’ll Go”:

You’ll look up and down streets. Look ‘em over with care.
About some you will say, “I don’t choose to go there.”
With your head full of brains and your shoes full of feet,
you’re too smart to go down any not-so-good street.

Sons & Daughters Doesn’t Suck

The other day really sucked. Colossal, epic, universe is fucking with you kind of suck. Mind-numbing, are you serious, can it get any worse – yes it can suckity suck suck. Yet, looking back, I can’t help but feel like it turned out to be pretty good.

It started with the fog. Did you guys see that? Pea soup, snow-blind fog at 8am. My view is what energizes me each morning. At the worst I can see boats in the dry dock – massive creatures my son claims are “bigger than whales”. Not today! Cold, clammy and dense.

Now I love every second I spend with my son. He is the light of my world. I am guilty of being totally gay for my 5-year old boy, stealing wet kisses from his shayna punim every chance I get. He can do no wrong by me and I spoil him like crazy with divorced-dad-guilt….But the thought of another playdate at the Academy of Sciences (like the 5th time in 2 months) just wasn’t screaming fun to me that day. There’s the albino alligator, look! jellyfish, oh here’s the rainforest. Again.

I know, I suck. We are so lucky to have such an amazing museum nearby and to share it with my boy is a treasure. So, as a result of my discontent, I got karmic bitchslapped. 4:00pm we’re about to get in the car to go home and I discover my key fob has fallen off my Schneider bundle (huge points for getting the reference). Done poof, gone. Enter the mind of the 5-year old existential crisis. Quivering lip: “Daddy. If we can’t get into the car, does that mean we can’t go home and we’re homeless?” No son, we just need to go to mommy’s house and get the spare I left. “But if the cab doesn’t come, how will we get there?”.

An hour later and dozens of more questions we’ve journeyed from GGP to Potrero and back in a vomit-inducing cab ride (it was the Gypsy Kings music as much as the driving). During which, at some point, I receive text message from the sitter that she cannot come tonight. Really? Really? Mistake in her plans, so my plans are toast. I was supposed to have dinner at Sons & Daughters, a place I had already cancelled twice. I’m really not supposed to eat there.

Still during all of this, I am calm. I keep my center. I don’t lose my cool, in fact, I welcome the challenges. How can I learn from this? What am I gaining? I shit you not! The Zealot is growing up people. I’m thinking about how the little man and I are getting some amazing mind-fuck-bonding going on. We’re answering real questions. We’re getting ok with the world. And from out of the blue, a family of fairy princesses and princes decided to invite my booger to sleep over, thus solving the sitter conundrum. Right with it all. Karma restored.

So, I’m back on track and the world is pretty wide open to me. I arrive early and walk around Union Square. And I cannot stop thinking that I never go to Union Square. But how festive! Yes, I must take the boy. Ice skating. Shopping. I feel like a tourist. When we sit down to eat it turns out that my companion also had a pretty shitty day. So we’re both in the need of a drink and an experience please. In fact, I receive an “order for me” and “yes, I’d love to share” – which are two of the greatest phrases an Epicurean Zealot can hear. Why thank you, I will.

So we get the tasting menu x 2, different paths with four courses, plus amouses, totaling a bazillion dishes with wine pairings x 2. Now, mind you, I know nothing about this place. I keep up on the scene, but it escaped me. Maybe it’s the generic name. Maybe it’s the humble pedigrees of the two chefs. Maybe because it’s in Union Square (though Opentable insists this is Nob Hill). So, I consider this order a risk, having been disappointed by Commonwealth on a few occasions and, while loving Frances, not feeling the backflip-enducing praise it gets. But give it your best shot fellas.

And so it was. Course after course after course. Without a misstep. You heard me. Everything was perfect. From a celery root soup with maitake, trumpets, enoki & cauliflower mushrooms to an abalone with burdock root and castelvetrano olive (say it three times – I made the waiter) to the finest wagyu zabuton steak I could imagine. We had foie and sablefish and none of the savory courses were less than outstanding. My only complaint was that the desserts didn’t live up. The chocolate was ok and the foie seems contrived. But it was excusable in the grand scheme.

Frame of reference: I just returned from a 10 day sojourn to Basque Spain to eat. I ate. A lot. In really really good places. This region is the epicenter of modern food. And I tell you… that the best meal I’ve had in months was at Sons & Daughters. In San Francisco. My hometown. As we left the restaurant the cold didn’t seem to matter. Strolling Union Square was even more charming with the glow of 8 wine pairings and a belly full of foie. The suckfest day was a distant memory and my faith in San Francisco dining rejuvinated. Turned out to be a pretty good night afterall.

New Skool!

For years I’ve driven up and down Potrero Hill, De Haro St. to be exact. Up to 22nd St. to my home. Down to Division St. for work. Back and forth, day after day. For the past two years there has been a curious sign on a showroom building at the corner of Alameda St. “restaurant space available”. It was an odd location, but seemed to have a patio and from what I know of this neighborhood, a lot of potential. We’ve got Adobe, Advent, Zynga and every designer worth his salt within 4 blocks. And, we’re dying for a real restaurant. I’ve dreamed often about selling my business and opening up something in that spot, who-knows-what, because I sensed this was a gem.

Skool Sign

Grand Pu Bah tried, but it proved to be niche rather than the next Slanted Door. Pizza Nostra, from the Chez Papa gang, was a step up, but still didn’t have the ‘it’ factor. There’s a ton of adequate places nearby, from Patisserie Phillipe, Chez Papa, Sunflower, Aperto, Umi Sushi – but nothing would turn the heads of your garden-variety foodie. They’re just neighborhood joints. Enter Skool.

The “space available” turns out to be a sexy spot for the next hot restaurant. I had lunch there today and got a lowdown from the owner. Apparently the landlord had a vision when he built the building years ago. He was willing to wait for the right people to come along to realize his vision. He built out the space with a designer’s eye and the attention to detail is clear. The place just feels good.

The people he chose were the couple behind Blowfish, Andy Mirabell and his fiancée Olia Kedik. Moreover, they teamed up with another couple, Toshihiro and Hiroko Nagano in the kitchen. There’s a definite young- entrepreneur vibe about the space, as the busy themselves to make your experience exceptional and to connect with their potential regulars.

Skool Aji Sandwich

Well, spank my ass and call me Sally, but I’m sold. The menu is loaded with healthy fish-forward options. There is a clear sophistication behind the cuisine and enough to keep me occupied enough to become a regular. I’ve only had the Aji sandwich with a side of fries and a cup of carrot-ginger soup, but I’m ready to go back for more. There’s a coffee-marinated steak sandwich, flatbreads and a bunch of creative fish mains. I’ll work my way through and offer a proper review top to bottom later.

What really has me sold is the idea of maximizing the sunshine of Potrero out on the patio, once they finalized their liquor license. Even on the rare foggy day the inside bar is a really appealing place to swill and they plan on some fab cocktails, designed by a Rye alum (I didn’t get her name). Can you sayz happy hour?

Currently only open for lunch. Opening for dinner on July 9 Phone 415-255-8800 | Address 1725 Alameda Street, San Francisco, CA 94103Skype SkoolSFTwitter SkoolSFFacebook SkoolSF

The Most Under-Appreciated Restaurant in Town

Today I had a sick day. Awful upper resp nonsense. Sat in bed and tried to work all day. Watched a few crappy movies. When a friend called me at the end of the day to see if I wanted dinner, one place came to both of our minds – Universal Cafe.

I’ve said it before and have given them props in multiple posts, but UC is one of the best restaurants in San Francisco, and is completely under-appreciated. It troubles me how often you’ll find the place half-empty and the lack of adulation they get in food circles. To me, the consistent quality of food put out of their kitchen rivals the best in the Bay. I could easily mention Universal in the same breath as Nopa, Delfina, Pizzaiolo, Flour + Water, Beretta and the like. In some ways, many of the things they do at Universal, they do best.

Take chicken for example. Hoffman Farms has become the standard for a quality bird, but Leslie Carr Avalos has figured out a way to bring every bit of flavor from it, in multiple preparations. She’s no one-trick-pony! Under a brick, marinated with yogurt or with a truffle bread salad – she makes the best fowl in the city! And I typically don’t like chicken.

Her pasta dishes are heavier than F + W or Quince, but they are incredible well balanced and satisfying. Soups – check. Salads – check. Fish – oh yeah. Braised meats, like shorts ribs, pork belly, lamb – check, check, check. The flatbreads are better than most of the pizza in town. Not to mention the mainstay Hanger Steak. I can sincerely say that I’ve never had a dish that I didn’t find exceptional at UC. That’s just crazy.

Of course we’re all familiar with their brunch. I can’t imagine a better combination of sunshine, outdoor dining, quality food and atmosphere, except perhaps Foreign Cinema. House-made granola, soft scambled eggs with seasonal this and thats. You get the picture. Bring on the Bellinis and Mimosas and slap me a side of artisan bacon or a sweet bread.

So, as I just finished off my salad of little gems and radishes after my mini rigatoni with veal meatballs, I am compelled to do whatever I can to share the wealth. Get in on the secret. Universal Cafe. Y’all here me?

Best Dishes in San Francisco, Part Four

Funny how sometimes things that you haven’t thought about in a long time come back around and are ever present? Nopa is back on my radar this week and it reminds me that I didn’t include anything of theirs in my list. Last night I was eating there, sharing in the wonder of Nopa (I’ll write a post about it fully later because it is my opinion that Nopa epitomizes everything that dining in San Francisco should be) and realized that there is a clear entry for my list, in addition to today’s others. With that, I give you……

Nopa Pork Chop: How you been there? Have you done that? It’s obvious that Nopa has mastered this signature piece of swine from the confidence exuded by the waitstaff when you order. These people are foodies, exhibited by the way our server and I bored the hell of our my dinner companions last night talking about the innovation of Mission Burger, the reopening of Quince and how he must try Wexler’s soon. The pork itself is delicately fatty, so you are not gnawing but rather melting. The overall flavor reminds me of a heritage product, like something you might have eaten a 100 years ago. Very earthy, very brined, very tasty. There is a slight glaze and only a little puddle of jus. That’s all they need to make this chop tops.

Nopa Pork Chop

Nopa Pork Chop

Grand Pu Bah Khao Soi: If you read my blog, you know that I love this [LINK]. I even hosted a special event for 50 of you to try it [LINK]. But don’t take my word. I am going to out my friend, David Steele, the owner of Flour + Water, who claims “this could be the best tasting thing I ever ate”. There are some detractors. One of my readers grabbed me at the event and said “this isn’t like Khao Soi in Thailand. It’s really good, but not authentic”. While I agree it isn’t an exact copy of the roadside fare in Thailand, I actually think it is better. The broth and braised meats are a pow pow punch. The pickled veggies, wet noodles, dry noodles and roasted chili paste give it a little boom boom. So take it away Black Eyed Peas……

Khao Soi

Khao Soi

Pizzaiolo Pizza Margherita: It’s official. I’ve said it. I am declaring Pizzaiolo’s margherita the best pizza in the bay. The competition is so freaking close that it’s hard to do this, but I have to have a pizza on the list. You won’t be disappointed by Pizzeria Delfina, Tony’s, Ideale, A16, Bistro Aix, Pizza Nostra and Picco which are the other serious contenders, but Charlie gets the prize. First, it’s the wood. I like-a me some smokey flavor. The sauce and cheese are spot on and the rest of the menu is orgasmic. He also does his non-margherita pizzas as good (Delfina, Picco) or better (all the rest) than anybody. If I had to choose one place, my friends, this is it.

Pizzaiolo Margherita

Pizzaiolo Margherita

Bakesale Betty’s Fried Chicken Sandwich: While we’re in the East Bay (on the same block, in fact) I’m throwing in a last minute nod to BB. There’s a reason the lines are so long every day for lunch. Part of it is the over-crammed assembly line folly that creates the energy of the spot. But most of it is because they are kicking out some tasty crispy-fried chicken breasts. Slapping them on an homemade roll, piling on a mass of awesome cole-slaw and doing it all messy. They’ll often throw you a treat while you are waiting and you just feel like you’re part of something good. Don’t miss the brisket sandwich either, that adds horseradish and potato chips to the pile.

Bakesale Batty Chicken Sandwich

Bakesale Batty Chicken Sandwich

French Laundry Mac and Cheese: One could easily find a dozen things to add to a best-of list from the FL. They are iconic. Every meal is an experience (though last time I went, it was a mixed one). But the thing that gets me each time, and has emerged as the signature dish, is chef Keller’s deconstruction of macaroni and cheese. The truth is that this deconstruction is actually butter-poached Maine lobster with a creamy lobster broth and mascarpone-enriched orzo pasta. I think we can all agree that pulling this off takes some serious chops. To me it is near perfection in flavor, texture and presentation.

Thomas Keller

Thomas Keller

737 Bridgeway Hamburgers: While we’re out of town, let’s jump over to Sausalito. I might be alone on an island with this one but my favorite hamburger in the Bay Area is at a little rotisserie grill in a narrow shack of a burger joint. 737 Bridgeway’s only sign says “Hamburger”. You can smell the cooking down the street and across the block. Tourists line up on their day trips from San Francisco. It seems they have heard about this place, but most of us haven’t. They used to have a sign that read: “How Not to Make a Hamburger” that would detail out the fast food process and then “How to Make a Hamburger” describing their process, which is ultra-fresh ground chuck, fresh sponge-bread roll, rotisserie fire grill, turning the meat once, salt and pepper seasoning on the outside, lappi cheese and the requisite toppings. They also serve crinkle-cut fries, which I think is a perfect foil to the meat. All I can say is that you should try it. Everyone has their own opinion about burgers and it’s likely only some of you will agree. But for me, this is the place.

737 Bridgeway Hamburgers Rotisserie Grill

737 Bridgeway Hamburgers Rotisserie Grill

Last one tomorrow…….

Best Dishes in San Francisco, Part Three

Now we’re gaining some momentum. Site traffic today was back to peak levels. Blogging as a modern medium still follows some old-school rules: specifically, publish or perish. There is clearly a direct correlation to new, good posts and blog traffic. Duh. I know that y’all likes you some recommendations. It’s clear people want to be told what to eat.

Today, it’s a hodge podge. I’ve got a bunch of favorites that don’t fit a category. So, let’s just let em all hang out.

Yank Sing House Special Soup Dumplings: Say what you will about Dim Sum in San Francisco and the battle between Yank Sing and Ton Kiang, the soup dumpling at the former is one of the best dishes in our fair city. What a surprise to find a glorious, savory broth magically swishing about inside a tender dumpling, floating in a bath of a sweet sauce and sliced ginger. It is so well crafted that I laughed smugly at Heaven’s Dog far inferior interpretation. You don’t mess with the Zohan.

Yank Sing Soup Dumplings

Yank Sing Soup Dumplings

Hayes Street Grill Crab Cake Sandwich: I cannot speak to the quality of this restaurant because I haven’t been there in nearly 15 years. It’s just not on the radar of your average SF foodie. But they do something at the Ferry Building Farmer’s Market on Saturday mornings that keeps me coming back again and again. The construct of the sandwich is perfect in many ways to my sensibilities. Let me deconstruct….. the bread is simple, white toasted on a fire to gain a lot of smokey flavor. This is critical. The crab cake is solid. Not the best crab cake I’ve ever had, but it’s a fine crab cake at that. It doesn’t need to be the best. Add to that a juicy, large slice of tomato. Sweet and cool meets crispy and savory. A little greens and tartar sauce round out the whole deal and man it just works. I get mine with a side of crispy bacon and it fuels me up for a market day.

Hayes Street Grill Crab Cake Sandwich

Hayes Street Grill Crab Cake Sandwich

Quince Ravioli: I’m not of the ilk that can afford to dine at Quince weekly. It’s a special occasion place. And it’s always special. I can confidently say that there is no pasta in our fair city that elevates the form like Quince (though Flour and Water is as close as close can get). Any pasta you eat at Quince could live on this list. There is simply too much care put into conceptualizing the preparations to not receive my praise. As I’ve said before, truly great pasta is about subtleties in textures and flavors that transcend the predispositions we hold. Ravioli is the purest example of how Quince can exceed any expectation. You’ll know it when you see it.

Quince

Quince

Nihon Tuna Carpaccio: Sushi is tough. Everyone has an opinion. The current darling, Sebo has everyone buzzing and I agree that they are pretty amazing. But I don’t want to get bogged down with identifying particular dishes in sushi joints. These seas are far too rough to navigate. Let’s leave them for my list of best restaurants. But……there is one dish that sticks in my mind as exemplary and worthy of joining this list. Nihon’s Tuna Carpaccio with white truffle oil, ponzu sauce & hawaiian sea salt is a crazy perfect blend of this and thats, these and those.

Gaspare’s Veal Milanese: This one is so out of place on any list, but what can I say – I love Gaspare’s. Everything is good and reminds me of my early years in New Jersey, eating late nights at Tony’s Baltimore Grill. The food is decidedly old-school AmerItalian. The lasagna is stunning. The pizza is greasy and flavorful. The chicken parmigiano is absolutely the real deal. But the dish that keeps calling me these days is the Veal Milanese. There is nothing particularly impressive about this except that it is exactly what it should be. A tender cutlet of veal, pounded thin and breaded (the breading is important and they get it right), fried and served with a little butter and lemon juice on top. I get it with a side of their spaghetti and meat sauce, which has a sweet, thick pile of sauce for sopping with bread when you’re done. Mamma mia.

I think I’ve got two or three more days in me of this. Frankly, it’s a hard exercise because I can barely narrow down the choices on some menus, let alone picking from the lineup of talent we have across the city.

Best Dishes in San Francisco, Part One

Ok, I know you’re sick of the cleanse talk. Frankly, so am I. I’ve been saving up some posts that I know you will all love and revisit. I’m going to drop some of my favorite individual dishes in the city!

There was a survey going around facebook a while back that listed the 50 things you must eat in San Francisco. I had about 35 of them nailed. Some of them may overlap here, but for the most part, these are just the things I think you must eat. I’ll probably list about 20 or so over the course of the week, in no particular order.

Slanted Door Shaking Beef: I’ve heard mixed reviews from people about the consistency of SD these days. I’m drawing on my experiences from the early years, living down the street from the original on Valencia. I’ve had the dish in the Ferry Building and it held up as one of the finest pieces of meat I’ve put in my mouth. It even translates well in the Out the Door, prepare-at-home, variety. The meat they use is so tender, it nearly melts. The sauce of white onions, green onions, soy, a little butter – kissed with a salt, pepper and lime mixture – put a fork in me.

Slanted Door Shaking Beef

Slanted Door Shaking Beef

Slanted Door Half and Half Rolls: While we’re at SD, they capture another standout. If you’re dining with two and cannot decide on their exceptional fresh spring rolls or fried imperial rolls, use our trick and order half and half. I would say that both are equally tasty, but the fresh rolls are probably more of a standout versus other Vietnamese places. Tu Lan does a pretty damn good imperial roll. The peanut sauce is the kicker. Just enough spice and the perfect density to grab on to the yummy mint, pork, shrimp and rice noodles that fill the fresh roll. Of course the imperial rolls contrast a crispy fried treat with some cool fresh lettuce, noodles and a sweet sauce.

Delfina Spaghetti with Plum Tomatoes, Garlic, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Peperoncini: Again, from the old neighborhood, Delfina has pleased me with this dish for years and years. It remains the best spaghetti in the city and the foundation for my perfect spaghetti recipe [LINK] which I have shared.

Delfina Spaghetti with Plum Tomatoes

Delfina Spaghetti with Plum Tomatoes

Delfina Panna Cotta: It’s two-for-Monday here. And Delfina takes the prize for my favorite dessert in the entire city. The flavors change seasonally, but their panna cotta is consistently one of the finest confections that will past your lips. It’s dense enough to hold it’s shape and coat the spoon, but so creamy that you’d be hard pressed to define what goes in it. Ethereal.

Delfina Grilled Fresh Calamari with Warm White Bean Salad: Ok, three-for. This isn’t for me – it was a favorite of Julie for years. I must admit, it’s pretty damn good. The squid is always fresh and tender – never chewy. The beans and herbs play so well off of the fruity olive oil – it is a perfect combination, often copied.

Tartine Morning Buns: Ok, we’ll round out the neighborhood. If Delfina’s panna cotta is one of the finest confections, Tartine’s morning bun is the finest confection. Words cannot describe the perfection achieved from the subtle combination of orange zest and a bready dough that retains it’s moisture on the inside and flakiness around the edges all day long. Though I strongly suggest getting some while they are hot. They will change your life, I promise.

Tartine Morning Buns

Tartine Morning Buns

Tartine Banana Cream Pie: Do I really need to give the details? Can you just trust me? Read and excerpt from my post about my birthday [LINK] this year:

The stand out of the evening was courtesy of my lovely wife……Banana Cream Tart from Tartine. This thing is off the charts. The texture of the cream reminds me of a merengue with the flavor of a custard. The bananas somehow remain fresh and crisp in all of the goop, the slivers of chocolate add even more pleasure and the crust is a tried and true winner (the same they use with their stellar quiche).

Admittedly this first list is nothing revelatory. If you’ve known me for any time or have been reading the blog these may have crossed your path. But what a start! Tomorrow we’ll start exploring the city a little deeper.

Wexler’s Is the Real Deal!

Have you ever played a sport and entered ‘the zone’? I’ve had many moments in my life where, lost in a state between the physical and mental, my instincts and training take over and I am transported to another dimension. Body and mind are fuzed together and it is almost as if I was floating above the space, looking back at myself. All was perfect.

This might be a strong metaphor for my lunch experience at Wexler’s, but there are certainly hints of this realm. Everything was simply effortless, yet incredibly well-planned. From the moment I arrived, until stepping back out into the street, Wexler’s was a model of the dining experience, as I would expect it to be executed by professionals who are in ‘the zone’. I can honestly say that it was one of the best lunches I’ve had in San Francisco, ever.

I had heard about Wexler’s and frankly had the wrong impression. I thought it would be a bar, first and foremost. I knew it had modern interpretations of Texas BBQ. From the blogosphere, I knew of their 4505 Meats Hot Dog. I was shocked to enter into a modern-designed restaurant that felt like anything but Texas BBQ or a bar. Yes there was a bar and yes they focus on interpretations of some BBQ classics. But this is a San Francisco treasure, top to bottom – not akin to any predisposition I held.

The setting is very clean and modern, yet warm and sophisticated. You can see the humble shell of the facility behind the well-selected elements that make up the design. The ceiling soars with a wooden rib-cage pattern by Aidlin Darling Designs, who took great pains to bring life to the former Les Amis location.

Photo Courtesy of Tablehopper

Photo Courtesy of Tablehopper

The lunch menu bounces back and forth from the US South to Northern California with confidence.  Charlie Kleinman, formerly of Fish and Farm, wants us to believe that Monterey Bay Squid and Little Gems belong right next to Texas Chili and Smoked Chicken Wings. Call me a believer.

The Bowl ‘o’ Red Texas chili is simply perfect. House smoked short ribs are delicately spiced and complimented with pickled shallots and creme fraîche. There is just enough to get you started but left for wanted more. This is how appetizers should be.

The Chilled Heirloom Cucumber Soup started with a bowl containing a few towers of red pepper confit, topped with smoked ricotta. The soup was poured over top from a small tea pot. It was an elegant presentation to an equally elegant soup.

Even the little gems salad (you know I loves me some little gems, don’tcha?) blew me away with tasty cornbread croutons and sublime smoked cippolini onions. Pure inspiration.

The pulled lamb sandwich is amazing on it’s own, but throw in some watermelon vinegar (you heard me!) and a divine slaw of green peach and red cabbage. Well, you’ve got to just try it yourself.

But the piece due resistance (said with Texas accent please) was the 4505 Meats Mission Dog. I’ve had a few of these dogs lately (both 4505 and Mission style). Nothing I’ve tasted was able to bring all flavors together in such a complete package as this treat. In fact, the guys at Mission Burger might pop in here to see how a great foundation is accented by the proper accessories. The perfect bacon, pickled chilies and caramelized onions sat atop a light sauce, fresh baked bun and the 4505 foundation. I wanted to stand and applaud.

Banana Cream Pie

And there was still dessert. What can I say about a Bourbon Banana Cream Pie with dulce de leche and fleur de sel? Except that the graham crust gets no mention and deftly cradled all of this love without flaw.

Needless to say I give Wexler’s a hearty endorsement. I almost don’t want to return for fear that the ‘zone’ was just an ‘on’ day for the team. But something about Wexler’s tells me that these pros take this seriously and bring their ‘A’ game every day.

Wexler’s
568 Sacramento Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94111
(415) 983-0102

Street Food Festival Tomorrow!

The fad that’s sweeping the city, that swept the world since Roman times, is sweeping Folsom Street, between 25th and 26th this Saturday. The first annual San Francisco Street Food Festival [LINK] will occur this Saturday, August 22 from 11am to 7pm in front of La Cocina.

Some of the touted vendors include:

Absinthe: Cheddar-cheese corn nut brittle, Jamie’s famous hot dog, Peach and sage shrub

Aziza: Squid salad with maras pepper, preserved lemon, cabbage, mint and cilantro, Moroccan “taco”: flatbread with harissa and braised beef cheeks (as well as a vegetarian version)

Bi-Rite Creamery: Strawberry Popsicle, Ice Cream Sundae

Chaac Mool: Handmade organic corn tortillas with slow-roasted and achiote rubbed pork shoulder, Yucatecan sandwiches with milk and cinnamon braised pork, Agua de Jamaica

Delfina/Pizzeria Delfina: Zeppole: fried pizza dough with mascarpone pastry cream, Pizza Fritta: fried calzone filled with escarole, pine nuts and olives, Limonciata

El Buen Comer: Tacos de Guisados; Rajas con Crema, Torta con Mole Verde, Agua de Horchata

El Huarache Loco: Tacos Alhambre: Mexico-City style tacos with carne asada, longaniza, bacon, grilled onions and peppers, Huarache con Nopales; Corn masa cake with cactus salad or steak, Watermelon Agua Fresca

Endless Summer Sweets: Clairesquares: Deep Fried Clairesquares, Funnel cake with strawberries and cream

Estrellita’s Snacks: Salvadoran Plantain Cake, Pupusa Loca (or mixed vegetarian pupusa), Ensalada Salvadorena (Mixed Tropical Drink)

Heaven’s Dog/Slanted Door: Vegetarian Steamed Bun, Lemongrass pork vermicelli bowl, Lychee-infused iced tea and las palmalitas ranch organic lemonade

Kasa Indian Eatery: Pav Bhaji; Spicy potato on grilled white buns with crunchy red onions, Kati Roll; Flaky buttery roti wrapped around charbroiled chicken or spicy cauliflower, Mango Lassi

Laiola: Gypsy pepper gazpacho with almonds, grapes & tarragon, Heirloom tomato “tomàquet” with grilled bread, Summer melon agua fresca

La Mar Cebicheria: Sanguche de Jamon Norteno: Slow-roasted pork leg served on an acme roll with salsa criolla, Ceviche Clasico; Mahi-Mahi served in a lime juice marinade with habanero, nectarines and sweet potato, Chicha Morada

Onigilly: Onigilly; Savory Japanese Rice Balls with Either Teriyaki Chicken or Marinated Eggplant, A Sweet! Handmade Kika’s Treats S’mores. Green Tea

Poleng Lounge: Balinese lamb and pork satay sampi on lemongrass skewer, Vietnamese style BBQ oysters with rendered bacon-scallion oil and lemon pepper sauce, Calamantea (Mactan Island iced tea with pineapple and calamansi)

Sabores del Sur: Chilean Beef or Vegetarian Empanadas, Anticuchos Chilenos; Marinated New York Strip and Beef Heart with Potatoes (or no heart if you please), Chicha

Zella’s Soulful Kitchen: Local Corn with Homemade Honey Butter, Pulled BBQ Chicken Sammie with Spicy Slaw, Southern Sweet Tea

Every dish is going to cost under $8. There is no charge for admission. I plan to attend with a posse, but I have to say that I’m a little skeptical about this whole thing. There are a lot of restaurants featured in that list, but where are the real street food vendors? Where’s El Tonayense? How about Little Skillet? Any of the Thursday farmer’s market superstars, like 4505 Meats, Pizza Politana, RoliRoti, Tacolicious? I’m just saying…..seems like it’d be a different vibe if we could actually get the street food vendors to a street food festival!

No Reservations San Francisco Tonight

I saw Tony at the Farmer’s Market when he was here in March to film tonight’s episode of No Reservations (airs on the Travel Channel at 10pm Comcast, 7pm DirecTV). I was with my son and it was one of those moments I immediately regretted.

You know how sometimes you see a celebrity and immediately react like they are someone you know? This alone proves to me that it would suck being a celeb.

I threw my boy onto my shoulders and walked over, saying to him loudly enough for Tony to here, “look buddy, it’s Uncle Tony” (incidentally, that is what I call him to my son when he sees AB on TV). Tony sort of snarled and looked me in the eye while he continued his ongoing conversation. I knew it was not cool. I stopped dead in my tracks and popped my boy down to his feet. We hovered for a moment and then ducked out. Even my four-year old was wise enough to see the screw up as he said “daddy, what was that?!”.

This is exactly where I nearly accosted the man.

This is exactly where I nearly accosted the man.

Lot’s of rumors abound about what Tony will cover tonight, but I’m sure it will feature old-salty haunts of San Francisco yesteryear mixed with the cutting edge that makes our city the epicenter of the sustainable movement. I know he has a love-hate relationship with the locavore ideals, mostly because many of the people espousing it are hypocrites in his eyes.

Lastly, my apologies for the sporadic posts lately. I’m finally one of the casualties of the economy and have had to bust my ass lately (and take work I would have avoided like the plague). I’m headed off to Colorado for some backpacking on Wed, but hope to get on a better schedule soon. I’ll try to come up with some posts on the trail and will likely review Jax in Boulder, home of Top Chef winner Hosea Rosenberg.

In Praise of Sardines: Contigo Review

Scored a sweet last-minute table at Contigo thanks to rockstar Glickenator. We let the waitress do all of the ordering for us, which has really become my favorite way of experiencing a restaurant. Overall, I would say that this place is standout and has a lot of the qualities I love in a restaurant. The design is flawless. Very inviting and charming with modern touches like: all of their refrigerators are lined up in plain view next to the bathroom. The owners are clearly passionate about Spanish food and seem to be creating a community vibe in the place. Chef Brett Emerson is an alumni of Zax and Zax Tavern, L’Amie Donia, Bizou (all are now closed), Lulu, and the Greens. He also has a blog called In Praise of Sardines [LINK].

We started with a host of fish courses, despite indicating that two of our diners were not fans of fish. More for me I suppose, but it did seem a bit inconsiderate. The Sardines were wonderful, thick with a bite of fishy up front but a mellow finish. I wasn’t a huge fan of the tomato and anchovy dish – I felt the anchovies overpowered some really good  tomatoes! But the octopus, oh the octopus. It was exceptionally tender with a hint of dressing and a crunch of friseé. Lovely.

The Serano ham could have been the best I’ve ever had. Sliced to order and clearly a good batch. It’s amazing how a bit of charcuterie can be so right or so wrong (here me Gialina and Tony’s!). I was conflicted with the oxtail croquetas. The crunch of vegetables was both interesting and a little curious. I still haven’t resolved that one. But one thing I definitely resolved was that I loved the pork belly bocadillos, which is essentially a bacon hamburger. A nice, not too fatty slab was piled with onions and allioli on a bun. Served with mini paprika potato chips. Ah.

The little gem salad didn’t knock my socks off. It seemed to be on the menu just to fit in to San Francisco. I was also a little soft on their albondigas [meatballs]. I liked the meat itself, a lot. But it needed sme salt and could have had a zippier sauce for my preference. But the garden lettuces with sherry vinegar was on point. They accented it with caña de oveja cheese and toasted hazelnuts. More more more.

We all enjoyed a chicken dish served with insanely sweet caramelized onions and a risotto made with paella rice. The chicken itself was perfectly cooked and as tasty as chicken can be, but I kept scooping up the rice and onions. I could have had a dish of just those. We ended with a catalonian flan that was stellar. But the dessert that stole the show was a cup of hot chocolate with hot and crispy churros to dip. Are you kidding me? Nice.

Contigo is definitely worth a visit. I suspect it will have staying power as a neighborhood joint. Frankly, it’s the best thing going in Noe. I’m not sure if it will reach legendary heights. There is still room for someone to take Spanish food to another level in San Francisco. I’m waiting for a proper Basque-style pinchos [basque tapas] joint. Anyone?

Farmer Browns: Little Skillet

The street food trend is reaching a tipping point. This is a good thing – damn good thing. The more the merrier! I’m still waiting for a Thai food vendor. Sticky rice and mangos, noodle stall, Thai coffee – just like Bangkok…..I can’t imagine a better cuisine to represent (I’m just handing out business ideas here people). Who’s with me?

Last week I stumbled on to Little Skillet [LINK], the latest venture from the folks at Farmer Browns. I say stumble because I had heard about the place and planned to visit, but never put two and two together until I was walking down Townsend for a business thing and looked down the alley to see a mob of people hanging out in an alley huddled over corn-based food boxes. After my meeting I came back. The setup is very cool – it feels out of place off of bustling Townsend street, but immediately you are transported into a soul food vacuum.

The menu is a simple extension of the Framer Brown’s concept: soul food with a sustainable slant. They have chicken and waffles, biscuits and gravy, a bunch of po boys: pulled pork, creole shrimp, some salads and sides. The dudes in the window are hopping kicking out box after box with some attitude to boot. Bring it.

The pulled pork is great – a little greasy, a little spicy – tons of flavor. The fried chicken is good. Not the best in the city, but becomes transcendent paired with a good waffle (belgian style), some syrup and a little side of their sausage gravy. Ok, we’re talking coronary, but acceptable for an infrequent treat, right? So why have I had it twice in a week?

What’s more important here, and bound to be the subject of future posts, is that the street food era is upon us, in full force. Almost to the point where it’s becoming prosaic. And I’m so completely on board. I love the idea of getting quality food from a stand, cart, window or stall. I’m a busy guy. I don’t often have the desire or time to sit down for a long lunch, but damned if I’m gonna eat fast food. This trend allows for me to track down some serious eats in just about every neighborhood in town to grab a quick fix or to even feed my crew on a job site. It’s a wonder it hasn’t caught on sooner, since every other culture in the world has rocking street food.

Little Skillet is a welcomed entrant into the genre. In fact, they are a model for the simplicity in form and execution that keeps San Francisco on the cutting edge (mimicking concepts practiced universally around the world, of course!).

The End of an Affair with Trader Joes

We were once in love. It started, like most loves, at a time when I was more naive than now….

I’ve had a sorted past with supermarkets. I can’t say that I ever paid much attention to who or why before I was twenty five. Back then it was in and out, a quick fix. I wasn’t loyal. Casel’s and Party Pak in Margate, Shop Rite in Philadelphia, Schnuck’s in St. Louis, Upim in Rome. I couldn’t tell you a thing about them, faceless names from my past. They certainly served a need, and may have even facilitated some artistic accomplishments. But they, I regret to say, meant very little me.

supermarket

It wasn’t until I moved to Boulder, Colorado in the early 90s that I started to pay more attention to my markets. It all started with the legendary Alfalfa’s. She was the queen of Boulder and I was a young, strong-willed, naive buck, who needed to be tamed. Here is how we met:

I moved to Boulder without a dime to my name. I chose Boulder because I had a place to crash and a ride from St. Louis, where I had been living with my girlfriend as she finished up at Washington U. I knew little about the place. I arrived at the end of the school year and there was chaos on campus. Kids were smoking pot in the streets. Parties raged at all hours. There were a lot of smelly white kids with dreadlocks and trust funds. I was clearly out of my element.

During the first few days I planned my escape from this crazy place many times. My ex comforted me and convinced me to stay. Go out and explore a little bit. Get settled. So I set out in search of a supermarket to stock up on some supplies. I hunted around “the Hill” where there were nothing but corner stores, bars and restaurants. In a bar that smelled of stale beer a young waitress with the requisite dreads and jean-shorts pointed me down The Hill. Alfalfa’s dude.

When I entered Alfalfa’s I started looking for some bread and peanut butter. Scant money. Simple. I navigated aisle upon aisle of bulk foods, herbal teas, asymmetrical produce, bins and barrels overflowing with quinoa and flaxseed. Where the peanut butter should have been was a grinder with fresh peanuts. Ew. That ain’t skippy. There were jars of almond butter, tahini and $5 jars of “peanut butter “with a thick pool of oil on the top. I just wanted some damn skippy – super chunk. I was ready to cry. Don’t even get me started on the bread.

This was my rude awakening to the conscious age of enlightened shopping. And while Alfalfa’s taught me much, I was still young and stubborn. I ultimately left it for Ideal Market in North Boulder, a gentler market, which was near the community gardens where I supplemented my food supply by growing my own. These were wonderful, wild and free times. I never grew dreads, but I did own plenty of jean-shorts and often smelled.

Then I moved to the big city. After Boulder, everyone went to San Francisco. It was at the peak of the .com era and there was an energy I’ve never experienced before. Rents were outrageous and occupancy was at 100%. I had to interview with hoards of others to score a room in a flat in the Mission. Everyone was talking about their internet startup, stock options, riding scooters in their office, free lunches and Trader Joes. Trader Joes was the young, cool place to shop – I wanted in!

TJs captured the energy of the Bay Area at that time by thinking outside the box. We were reinventing the economy, so why not the supermarket? They worked out crazy deals to repackage and brand foods so that everything had a TJs vibe. Most things tasted pretty good. Their wine was cheap. They had an eye for the exotic and also the familiar. For a while, I was a serious TJs devotee. As a single guy, it wasn’t hard to survive on TJs alone. My needs were filled. I was in love.

As the years went by I found myself relying on TJs less and less. Like any relationship, we reached a level of comfort and the spark was gone. TJs was part of a routine. It became a stop in my cycle of marketing that included Safeway (which I dropped years ago) for essentials and Mollie Stones (I moved too far away) for gourmet goods. I couldn’t quite make the leap to Whole Foods at first, but ultimately I gave in and then they opened one up in my neighborhood, Potrero Hill. Maybe it reminded too much of Alfalfa’s, which I had psychologically left behind (note Alfalfa’s was purchased by Wild Oats, which ultimately was purchased by Whole Foods). For a long time, I was on autopilot and I was ok.

But then came sustainability. Oh, darn you conscience! To the enlightened mind, even Whole Food looks tainted (though I am definitely seeing them make an effort, but that’s another post). It had been a few months since I hit TJs and I’ve avoided putting it under the microscope. Today I walked the aisles, sad to know that we’ve reached the end. For all its ingenuity, TJs just hasn’t evolved. Packaging on top of packaging. Goods shipped in from all over the globe. Processed foodstuffs that rival the Safeways and CalMarts of the world. We cannot turn a blind eye to your indiscretions anymore TJs. You’re kind of a whore.

It saddens me, because I know, TJs, you could be so much more. If you just turned your eye toward the sun you could pioneer a new way. It would be a major shift, but isn’t it worth the effort? Sigh. I suppose I’ll pop in now and again to see how you’re doing, out of nostalgia. You do have the best prices on Barbara’s cereals (which my son loves). Your frozen mac-n-cheese, while loaded with way too much non-foods, is really divine and worth as an infrequent treat (but I will not continue to serve it to my son twice weekly). Maybe I’ll come and stock up on chips and nitrate free hot dogs for parties now and then. If I can find parking, that is.

And….. if you decide to change your ways, you can always find me at the Farmer’s Market.

Hair of the Dog

Oh Charles! Why oh why, Charles?

In the late 90s I lived on 18th and Valencia. Regularly, on my way home from work I would stop off at the Slanted Door for some Shaking Beef, Fresh Spring Rolls or Clay Pot Chicken. The energy of the first SD location was the epitome of the boom days of the .com era. Mission hipsters lined up down the block, the music was loud, the food was innovative and unique, the vibe was perfect.

Charles Phan at Heavens Dog

Charles Phan at Heaven's Dog

Perfect, so much so, the rest is the tale of San Francisco restaurant legend. First there was the temporary location in South Beach (never made it, sorry). Then the big Ferry Building gamble that paid off in spades (Slanted Door is one of the top grossing restaurants in the city). Next, another gamble on Out the Door, which I think the jury is still out-the-door on (man, I’m just kicking the puns this week!). They certainly seem consistently busy there and overcame a massive ceiling water burst, which closed them for a few weeks. Then there was the cafeteria at the Academy of Arts and Sciences, which I am guessing was an ego venture.

And now we have Heaven’s Dog, the latest venture from the Phan family located on the ground floor of the Soma Grand on Mission Street at 7th Street. I met my pal Tony for lunch, despite his protestations. It seems the “Dog” wasn’t getting good reviews. But, how could that be possible? At the least, with Charles’ influence, there had to be a sensible menu with a handful of well-executed gems. Right? Charles? Right?

Unfortunately this isn’t one of those happy endings. In fact, everything we ate (and we both agreed, so this isn’t my jaded view) was just plain bad. I know that this my second negative restaurant review in a row (see Gialina) but I can’t say a single positive thing about the food at Heaven’s Dog. Here’s the rundown:

Upon our server’s recommendation we had the pork belly & bun appetizer. This was probably the best dish, but it just came up dry. The meat was juicy and would have been fine in another vessel, but the bun was dry and needed some sort of sauce. Just a simple hit of a plum-type sauce would have done the trick. Or maybe an innovative fiery broth from the mind of Charles. But no.

Pork Belly Bun

Pork Belly Bun

Next were house-special dumplings, again upon recommendation. The skins were mushy, the broth inside wasn’t terribly tasty and the meat was just a lump of ground pork. They served it with a soy sauce and ginger – neither added anything. I kept thinking of the comparable dumpling at Yank Sing, which is on another planet by comparison. Everything about the Yang Sing dumpling screams exceptional. I don’t understand why Charles wouldn’t aspire to do better.

For mains we went with more suggestions (maybe our waitress wanted to torture us?) – Salt and Pepper Squid and Braised Kale. We expected the squid to be fresh and tender. What we got was greasy, chewy and salty fried calamari. Absolutely nothing innovative about it. We couldn’t even finish it. The Kale looked promising. It was bright green and seemed to be cooked perfectly. But then we tasted the sauce. It was essentially soy sauce. I tasted nothing but soy. So, I was eating bad calamari and kale soaked in soy.

As we finished up I looked around the room and started wondering where the name came from. Waiting for the check, the kale sat in front of me and I started to think that it smelled like a wet dog. It all made sense.

I still believe Charles is a superstar. Whenever we have guests in town I take them to the Ferry Building and brave the crowds for a nostalgic Shaking Beef or Imperial Roll. But if this meal was any example of what’s cooking at Heaven’s Dog, and other reviewers seem to confirm, Charles may be spread too thin. We have the right to expect more.

Noodle Soup @ Grand Pu Bah

Say what you will about Grand Pu Bah (some feel it is overpriced, others don’t like the fusion elements), I [heart] their noodle soups. We are good friends with the owners and I have a special relationship with Thailand and Thai food. This may make loving GPB easier for me. Plus it is just two doors down from my showroom.

The trick? Order the tom yum noodle soup or chicken noodle and trick it out with your preferences. I like the chicken noodle and add Chinese broccoli (order medium spicy and season yourself). Then squeeze some lime juice in it. Oh my!

Tell the Pi’dam sent you and you’ll get special treatment!