The End of an Affair with Trader Joes

We were once in love. It started, like most loves, at a time when I was more naive than now….

I’ve had a sorted past with supermarkets. I can’t say that I ever paid much attention to who or why before I was twenty five. Back then it was in and out, a quick fix. I wasn’t loyal. Casel’s and Party Pak in Margate, Shop Rite in Philadelphia, Schnuck’s in St. Louis, Upim in Rome. I couldn’t tell you a thing about them, faceless names from my past. They certainly served a need, and may have even facilitated some artistic accomplishments. But they, I regret to say, meant very little me.

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It wasn’t until I moved to Boulder, Colorado in the early 90s that I started to pay more attention to my markets. It all started with the legendary Alfalfa’s. She was the queen of Boulder and I was a young, strong-willed, naive buck, who needed to be tamed. Here is how we met:

I moved to Boulder without a dime to my name. I chose Boulder because I had a place to crash and a ride from St. Louis, where I had been living with my girlfriend as she finished up at Washington U. I knew little about the place. I arrived at the end of the school year and there was chaos on campus. Kids were smoking pot in the streets. Parties raged at all hours. There were a lot of smelly white kids with dreadlocks and trust funds. I was clearly out of my element.

During the first few days I planned my escape from this crazy place many times. My ex comforted me and convinced me to stay. Go out and explore a little bit. Get settled. So I set out in search of a supermarket to stock up on some supplies. I hunted around “the Hill” where there were nothing but corner stores, bars and restaurants. In a bar that smelled of stale beer a young waitress with the requisite dreads and jean-shorts pointed me down The Hill. Alfalfa’s dude.

When I entered Alfalfa’s I started looking for some bread and peanut butter. Scant money. Simple. I navigated aisle upon aisle of bulk foods, herbal teas, asymmetrical produce, bins and barrels overflowing with quinoa and flaxseed. Where the peanut butter should have been was a grinder with fresh peanuts. Ew. That ain’t skippy. There were jars of almond butter, tahini and $5 jars of “peanut butter “with a thick pool of oil on the top. I just wanted some damn skippy – super chunk. I was ready to cry. Don’t even get me started on the bread.

This was my rude awakening to the conscious age of enlightened shopping. And while Alfalfa’s taught me much, I was still young and stubborn. I ultimately left it for Ideal Market in North Boulder, a gentler market, which was near the community gardens where I supplemented my food supply by growing my own. These were wonderful, wild and free times. I never grew dreads, but I did own plenty of jean-shorts and often smelled.

Then I moved to the big city. After Boulder, everyone went to San Francisco. It was at the peak of the .com era and there was an energy I’ve never experienced before. Rents were outrageous and occupancy was at 100%. I had to interview with hoards of others to score a room in a flat in the Mission. Everyone was talking about their internet startup, stock options, riding scooters in their office, free lunches and Trader Joes. Trader Joes was the young, cool place to shop – I wanted in!

TJs captured the energy of the Bay Area at that time by thinking outside the box. We were reinventing the economy, so why not the supermarket? They worked out crazy deals to repackage and brand foods so that everything had a TJs vibe. Most things tasted pretty good. Their wine was cheap. They had an eye for the exotic and also the familiar. For a while, I was a serious TJs devotee. As a single guy, it wasn’t hard to survive on TJs alone. My needs were filled. I was in love.

As the years went by I found myself relying on TJs less and less. Like any relationship, we reached a level of comfort and the spark was gone. TJs was part of a routine. It became a stop in my cycle of marketing that included Safeway (which I dropped years ago) for essentials and Mollie Stones (I moved too far away) for gourmet goods. I couldn’t quite make the leap to Whole Foods at first, but ultimately I gave in and then they opened one up in my neighborhood, Potrero Hill. Maybe it reminded too much of Alfalfa’s, which I had psychologically left behind (note Alfalfa’s was purchased by Wild Oats, which ultimately was purchased by Whole Foods). For a long time, I was on autopilot and I was ok.

But then came sustainability. Oh, darn you conscience! To the enlightened mind, even Whole Food looks tainted (though I am definitely seeing them make an effort, but that’s another post). It had been a few months since I hit TJs and I’ve avoided putting it under the microscope. Today I walked the aisles, sad to know that we’ve reached the end. For all its ingenuity, TJs just hasn’t evolved. Packaging on top of packaging. Goods shipped in from all over the globe. Processed foodstuffs that rival the Safeways and CalMarts of the world. We cannot turn a blind eye to your indiscretions anymore TJs. You’re kind of a whore.

It saddens me, because I know, TJs, you could be so much more. If you just turned your eye toward the sun you could pioneer a new way. It would be a major shift, but isn’t it worth the effort? Sigh. I suppose I’ll pop in now and again to see how you’re doing, out of nostalgia. You do have the best prices on Barbara’s cereals (which my son loves). Your frozen mac-n-cheese, while loaded with way too much non-foods, is really divine and worth as an infrequent treat (but I will not continue to serve it to my son twice weekly). Maybe I’ll come and stock up on chips and nitrate free hot dogs for parties now and then. If I can find parking, that is.

And….. if you decide to change your ways, you can always find me at the Farmer’s Market.

Locavore iPhone App

Locavore AppAdmittedly, I am a little behind the curve on this one. I believe the Locavore application hit the iTunes store in March or so. As the maven of both technology and food, I’m embarrassed that I didn’t get wind of it until recently. I’m certain that many of you are in the same boat, so I’m posting it now anyway.

As I ranted about with the Local Food Wheel, the Locavor app gives you a rundown of what is in season for any given location. There is a clock icon that gives you a general idea of when a season ends. They also have a preview of what is about to come into season (Figs are starting to appear!!) Outside of the Bay Area or a few other large cities, the information becomes scant but I assume it is only a matter of time before the Slow Food mentality reaches the heartland. (I’m waiting for your complaint “blintz69″ that the LA offerings fall short).

Moreover, Locavore also has Farmer’s Market listings (proximity to you generated by the GPS) so you can easily find one close to you. I’d like to see them add searchable schedules, rather than just pull up the LocalHarvest web page. It would help to be able to look at a calendar and know where the closet market is on any given day.

There is also a community section where you can share feedback on produce in a 150 mile radius, 500 mile radius or The World. I’m not sure what we’re supposed to get out of it, but everyone is about social networking these days.

I think they’ve done an excellent job on the application and can’t wait to see future releases. It’s well worth the $4. You can click here or click on any of the images for the iTunes link to the application.

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The Local Foods Wheel

I was at an event last week where Jessica Prentice spoke. In passing she mentioned her Local Foods Wheel, which immediately struck me as brilliant. Since I am not originally from California and don’t have a farmer’s sense, this tool is very helpful to guide my market visits.

Local Foods Wheel

Local Foods Wheel

The wheel is currently available in San Francisco and New York varieties (links on the site for where to purchase). The cost is $12.95 plus shipping. I give it a big zealot seal of approval! Go get yours (link on image to visit the site).

For those who haven’t yet discovered the importance of seasonality and eating local, it goes something like this:

Since the dawn of agriculture humankind has operated on a schedule of seasonality. We ate food when the earth could produce it, relative to the location where it was produced. It’s a simple cycle that we’ve broken with our greed for convenience. And……local food just tastes better. It’s fresher and smaller, which means it wasn’t engineered to be bigger and full of water = flavorless.

Purchasing your food out of season means that it must be grown in far off places. The environmental impact of transporting these foods gobbles up unnecessary natural resources. On a planet with a global climate crisis, it is best to try to minimize our impact. Moreover, by eating local you support small farmers and build community relationships, which goes a long way in knowing where your food really comes from. The era of industrialized farming has done a lot to make corporate profits, but very little to support farmers. Plus, pesticides and chemicals are necessary to support the monoculture mentality of the modern agri-business, which does no good for the soil or the people who consume them.

There are many books, blogs and a few movies (including Food Inc – have you seen it??) available to provide more information, if you’re interested.

Berkeley Farmer’s Market

I’ve been dissing Berkeley for a long time. Julie always said she could live in the East Bay and I would counter that “I couldn’t take all of the armpit hair” or “the Patchouli would suffocate me” or “I’d probably drive off the Bay Bridge if I had to use it to commute”. Well, I must be going nuts, because I am starting to soften.

 

Berkeley Farmer's Market

Berkeley Farmer's Market

 

Last night we decided to step outside our norm and hit the Berkeley Farmer’s Market. Years ago, I had been to the Center Street @ MLK location and was pretty impressed. I went with my friend CSP, who is a Queen Bee in the world of the East Bay food elite. I was a little intimidated back then. This time we hit the Shattuck @ Rose location. The vibe was decidedly East Bay, but free from armpit hair and patchouli. Kids were running around. People were chatting casually. Live musicians were playing. Everyone was friendly.

Like most Bay Area markets, the produce was exceptional. I picked up some little gems, pasture-raised eggs, a flat of strawberries, spring onions and some very healthy looking spinach. Judah grabbed an ice cream cone with his pal Caroline and they raced up and down the well-protected street (homemade cones! what a great idea). Our friend Greg snapped photos (seen here, thanks!) as the light was terrific and the colors of the wares were vibrant.

 

Judah and Caroline with their Cones

Judah and Caroline with their Cones

 

Afterward we walked a block away to a playground across for the kids to play. I surprised Julie by saying that I could actually consider this sort of country living (two of my favorite people live right across the street from that park). We ate dinner at Breads of India, which I remember being a lot better than it was. Tonight the sauces weren’t complex enough with far too little salt. At least the breads were still great.

Then it was time to head back across the bridge. I only cursed at four or six people on the way home, as opposed to my usual ten. Berkeley definitely had an effect on me.