The Tortilla Espanola suffers an identity crisis here in the United States. Call it simply a Tortilla, as they do in Spain, and it is mistaken for the flat flour or corn wrap used in Mexican cuisine. Serve it at a dinner party and invariably it will be referred to as a Frittata, an Italian omelette of similar shape that is stuffed with veggies, meats and cheeses. The English translation is commonly “Spanish Omelette”, but order one of those in a New Jersey diner and you get a regular omelette with peppers, onions and other such stuff.

To me, the Tortilla Espanola shames all comparisons with it’s casual elegance. There is a rarefied space in the world of cuisine where certain dishes can achieve such elegance with only a few ingredients. It is the sum of their parts that becomes transcendent.

If there were a national dish of Spain, I’d look to the Tortilla. It’s everywhere. Pull in to a gas station in Rioja and there’s one cooling, fresh from the oven. Every cafe in Madrid has a line of them. North, South, East, West – the Tortilla is ubiquitous. Even in Basque country, where they posses their own cuisine, the Tortilla shines amidst all of the magnificent Pintxos.

In my obsession to elevate simple foods by focusing on the ingredients, I’ve crossed the Tortilla’s path many times. Anyone can make the dish. Most will be pretty good. But, in my opinion, to do it right, you’ve got to start with the finest components. Here’s how it goes.

Eggs, onions, potatoes, oil, salt and pepper. That’s it. Easy right? Yes, actually. But break it down a bit. We’ve talked about pastured eggs before. Here is one of the perfect places to let those eggs shine. The deep yolk egginess goes perfectly with the potatoes and onions. The salt takes it higher.

For the potatoes, I’m spoiled. Our farmer’s market has a stall with the most insane varieties of deeply flavored, well-cared-for spuds of all shapes and sizes. I particularly like these banana fingerlings I picked up last week. But any flavorful potato will do. Avoid waxy or watery varieties. A good yellow would do the trick. Peel and cut them to about 1/4″ thick on a mandolin or in your food processor. Make sure the pieces aren’t bigger than 3/4″ in any direction. It helps with layering the final product.

Some nice sweet yellow onions are next, sliced thinly. I picked up Dirty Girl farms onions this week. This is my favorite farm. They can do no wrong. For salt, I’m partial to Maldon Sea Salt. Oil is mostly always Bariani in our house.

Sauté the onions and potatoes slowly in a non-stick fry pan with some olive oil. Use enough potatoes to fill the pan about half way. Cover them and toss them frequently to evenly cook. Do not let them brown. They’re done when the potatoes are fork tender, al dente and the onions are golden. You’ll get the feel.

I prefer to let the mixture cool down before combining with the eggs. Salt them to taste. Whisk up the eggs with a splash of milk until fully combined. Use enough eggs to envelope the potatoes and onions, but not so much that it is soupy. Think stew’y, like 40% egg 60% potato. Mas or meno. Salt again. You’ll get the feel.

Clean out the fry pan and re-oil. Make sure it is clean so the Tortilla doesn’t stick. Return the mixture and cook on low-medium heat until the sides start to form. Run a spatula around the edges to keep from sticking. Add more oil if necessary. When the circle starts to set about 1/4 distance from the edges, transfer the pan to a 350° oven until the eggs are fully set. Just before pulling it out, turn on the broiler for a minute to lightly brown the top.

Remove from the oven and run the spatula through again. Shake the pan to loosen the Tortilla. When you’re certain it is free, place a plate on top so you can flip it out. Let it cool down to room temperature or cooler before serving. This dish is definitely better at cooler temps. Too hot just doesn’t do it justice.

Not sure how I got to 700+ words on Tortilla Espanola already, but that speaks volumes about the dish. So, stop calling this a Frittata, place it in the pantheon of your best, most trusted dishes. Serve it once a month at a dinner party, with the cheeses as a starter. Pair it with a crisp white wine and live like a Spaniard! You’ll get the feel.

In response to our popular post on Thailand’s treasure of a soup, Khao Soi, our friends at Grand Pu Bah are putting it on the menu for one night only. We’ll certainly be there next Wednesday night, July 29th, starting at 6pm until they run out. Click here to check out the evite and RSVP.

Photo Courtesy of David Hagerman at Easting Asia (LINK)

If you haven’t had Khao Soi, but love Thai food, I cannot stress how special this dish is. You can read the original post by clicking here. It will also be fun to gather a group of local foodies to drink and be merry and meet the Zealot himself. Once again Click here to check out the evite and RSVP.

I am working slowly to re-introduce some of my posts of 2006 from my other server that remain relevant. Since most of you never read that incarnation of the Zealot, I hope you enjoy them. I could just drop them anonymously into the archives, but I’m hoping they will strike a chord. Here is a introduction to the now-stalwart of the Ferry Building, and still worth discovering, for those who haven’t……

I must admit that the first few times I visited Boulette’s Larder, I didn’t quite get it. Occupying a corner of the Ferry Building, tucked away behind Culinaire and across from Frog Hollow Farms, Boulette’s feels like a cross between an Apocathary, a Butcher Shop, a Bakery and a Science Lab. There is a wall of glass jars filled with exotic herbs, roots, spices and grains. Chefs huddle over their meticulous work, darting in and out of a walk-in cooler, while counter-folk are busily filling up containers and stacking them for their knowing clientele. There is also a monster of an animal (a dog, Boulette himself) slumped underneath a communal table, seemingly overseeing the show.

So, what exactly is Boulette’s Larder? If I had to boil it down, I would call it a foundation for the foodie. The easiest thing to do there, is to simply enjoy a breakfast or lunch, served café style at the communal table or outside of either of the doors. Amaryll Schwertner and Lori Regis were the former owners of Star’s restaurant and have obviously poured their hearts and dreams into this concept. Every item they serve is meticulously planned, prepared and executed. They embody the concept of Slow Food, yet don’t exploit it. If you are looking for a pure example of contemporary California Cuisine, this is the place.

Another interesting facet of Boulette’s is to rent their facilitiess and their talent for an private evening function. I had the pleasure of attending a special birthday dinner that reconfirmed their dedication to effortless perfection Boulette’s exhibits. Every detail, from the flowers to the wines to the aromas, presentations and pure flavors of the food were personally watched over by Lori and Amaryll. It is a casual, yet elegant experience and something everyone must try for their next important gathering.

Boulette’s also offers a daily selection of prepared foods, raw ingredients and baked goods. Where I gain most pleasure from Boulette’s is actually in my own cooking. When I plan for a dinner party or special event, I often stop at Boulette’s first for inspiration. It may come in the form of an herb blend, rendered duck fat, a handmade stock or one of the treats from the Fatted Calf charcuterie. Sometimes a small side-dish provides a basis to inspire an entire meal, like a salt-cod brandade or a beet salad. If you take the time to read the chalk-board and compare with what is in the deli case and bowls behind the counter you will always find something relevant. During holidays, there is always something perfect that you hadn’t thought of or didn’t have time to make (Jews: think handmade gefilte fish and perfect Matzoh Balls).

As an example, for my son’s first birthday party we wanted to do make-your-own pizzas on the grill. I had my dough, cheeses (ricotta salata, fontina, gorgonzola) and a few toppings (trumpet mushrooms, broccoli rabe, fresh peas, prosciutto). A quick visit to Boulette’s added: Lamb Ragu, Cardoon Sugo, Wild Nettle Pesto, Baby Artichokes and Hand-stretched Buffalo Mozzarella. Needless to say, everyone was enamored with the selections.

Most of all, what really rounds out the experience at Boulette’s is the advice and council offered by Lori and Amaryll themselves. You must be patient, as these are busy people. I’ve had a number of people tell me that Boulette’s can feel snobby, but I think it’s really just a busy place where the regulars are known and appreciated. You might drop a question here and there at first. Certainly go often and buy things that you can use throughout the week. In the end, they can always offer a creative spin on your cooking and help you to find that one item to make it that much better. So,with that said, why are you not a regular at Boulette’s Larder?