Zealot Endorsement: SFGreenClean.com

Posted on July 30, 2009 by ezealot

I’m a pretty cynical guy. You might have noticed that I offer more criticism than praise. Perhaps I am en route to becoming a codger? Certainly naming my blog “Zealot” implies a particular fervor. I’ve mentioned before how much I loathe the current state of outsourced, impersonal customer service and I absolutely abhor the idea of corporate anything. I’m not often overwhelmingly impressed with much in this world.

In a brief departure from my food posts, I must rave about a service I recently discovered that exceeded my expectations far beyond mere contentment. I wanted to use my bully pulpit to advocate a new paradigm in dry cleaning. I want to introduce SFGreenClean.com [LINK].

I’ve never been a fan of dry cleaning. The cost and the waste is simply abhorrent. Plastic bags, hangers, chemicals – there was always something wrong. But what alternative? My girlfriends keep me in a respectable wardrobe. My shit’s gotsta look fine. Translation: I like to look fresh pressed.

I finally reached the end of my rope when I went through my closet last week and decided enough was enough. Way too many hangers, way too much plastic. I knew there had to be an alternative in this high-minded [read smug] town. [ASIDE] For a really good window on our smugness, see the South Park episode “Smug Alert” [LINK]. If you can’t laugh at yourself…….

It didn’t take long to find SFGreenClean – this web thing is pretty cool – might actually catch on. From start to finish the experience was eye-opening. The web site touts the number of hangers and bags saved. There is a hybrid delivery vehicle pictured (honestly I didn’t see what car the driver had) with a dude looking all happy. There is a lot of speak about non-toxic cleaning methods. It all sounded good.

I scheduled the pick-up for the same day and the driver was dead-on prompt. Like, 7pm, ding-dong, hello?!! He had a bag into which I stuffed all of my schwag. The next morning I logged back on to the site and every piece was input and detailed in their tracking system. I mean they had the brand name, size, color, measurements – wow. All of my clothes there to track. They even identified pit stains [ewww] and other nick and tears that were automatically repaired. They just took control.

Every detail of the process was shown online. At every step I could see where my clothes were and what was next to come. It was kind of fun to have such disclosure. Moreover, with all of this information, I will ultimately have a full inventory of my wardrobe once each piece cycles through the system. I’m not sure how I could use this data (perhaps tracking longevity or number of cleanings, etc), but it certainly can’t hurt.

When everything was completed, I received an email and I selected a delivery time. When the stuff arrived, it was on wooden hangers – wooden friggin hangers people!! Inside lovely cloth bags – lovely cloth bags people!! I assume I will ultimately return them as we proceed with future orders. There were no obvious instructions, but I’m sure if I weren’t so lazy I could find it online.

The biggest thing I noticed was that my clothing was REALLY clean – like age-old stains were gone. And the was no stanky-dry-clean smell. God I hate traditional dry cleaning smell. Gone. No more. Adios mofo.

There is no doubt that I am paying a huge premium for this luxury. But I have to say that I’ve been lulled into a state of bliss, so much so that I never checked the charges. I really don’t care. If I have to cut out some other luxury, it is worth the cost. I’ve found the perfect cleaners. Now take it from the Zealot and get you yours.

Farmer Browns: Little Skillet

Posted on July 28, 2009 by ezealot

The street food trend is reaching a tipping point. This is a good thing – damn good thing. The more the merrier! I’m still waiting for a Thai food vendor. Sticky rice and mangos, noodle stall, Thai coffee – just like Bangkok…..I can’t imagine a better cuisine to represent (I’m just handing out business ideas here people). Who’s with me?

Last week I stumbled on to Little Skillet [LINK], the latest venture from the folks at Farmer Browns. I say stumble because I had heard about the place and planned to visit, but never put two and two together until I was walking down Townsend for a business thing and looked down the alley to see a mob of people hanging out in an alley huddled over corn-based food boxes. After my meeting I came back. The setup is very cool – it feels out of place off of bustling Townsend street, but immediately you are transported into a soul food vacuum.

The menu is a simple extension of the Framer Brown’s concept: soul food with a sustainable slant. They have chicken and waffles, biscuits and gravy, a bunch of po boys: pulled pork, creole shrimp, some salads and sides. The dudes in the window are hopping kicking out box after box with some attitude to boot. Bring it.

The pulled pork is great – a little greasy, a little spicy – tons of flavor. The fried chicken is good. Not the best in the city, but becomes transcendent paired with a good waffle (belgian style), some syrup and a little side of their sausage gravy. Ok, we’re talking coronary, but acceptable for an infrequent treat, right? So why have I had it twice in a week?

What’s more important here, and bound to be the subject of future posts, is that the street food era is upon us, in full force. Almost to the point where it’s becoming prosaic. And I’m so completely on board. I love the idea of getting quality food from a stand, cart, window or stall. I’m a busy guy. I don’t often have the desire or time to sit down for a long lunch, but damned if I’m gonna eat fast food. This trend allows for me to track down some serious eats in just about every neighborhood in town to grab a quick fix or to even feed my crew on a job site. It’s a wonder it hasn’t caught on sooner, since every other culture in the world has rocking street food.

Little Skillet is a welcomed entrant into the genre. In fact, they are a model for the simplicity in form and execution that keeps San Francisco on the cutting edge (mimicking concepts practiced universally around the world, of course!).

Can Costco Go Green?

Posted on July 22, 2009 by ezealot

I’ve been reading some interesting articles about how Costco is taking the step into Green. I think it is inevitable that we will see corporate bandwagoning of the Green movement, but have always been skeptical that they could pull it off effectively. Let’s be real…..at this point, there is a major difference between espousing “Green” and true sustainability.

Actually let’s explore that a little, particularly for those who aren’t caught up with their reading. You might think that going green is as simple as buying the “recycled” toilet paper from Safeway. Not even close, bub! To truly understand sustainability one must trace the origins of their consumption all the way to the source, and consider all elements along the way. How much energy does the manufacturing process take? What materials are used at the expense of producing this product? What waste is generated? How is the product packaged and transported? What fossil fuels are consumed as a result? The list goes on and on.

This might seem a bit obsessive-compulsive and, in many cases, impossible. But if we don’t ask, we’ll never know. Corporations have sought to hide these things from us so that we don’t fully appreciate the true costs of our consumption and therefore accept the status quo. One could argue that the nature of the financial structure of corporate-anything is inconsistent with sustainability, but I believe that is a battle for future generations. Our goal should be focused on laying the seed for change. And our first mission is to fully understand the important details of what we consume.

In the age of sustainability, manufacturers who really own the idealism will volunteer this information to distinguish themselves and to help facilitate your decisions. Case in point: look at your eggs in the supermarket. Cage-free this, free range that – it’s all marketing hype in reaction to our growing concern over animal treatment. But……when you come across the real deal, they certainly let you know. Here is what TLC Ranch says about their eggs:

Eggs are certified organic by California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), as of January 15, 2009.

Similar to the pigs, our laying hens are moved around 20 acres of certified organic pasture using mobile chicken coops. Using electric mesh fencing, they are given about 1.5 acres at a time and moved about 200 times a year so they always have fresh, green, growing vegetation to eat as well as plentiful bugs (chickens are not vegetarians).

Predation is prevented through the use of electric fencing and an amazing livestock guard dog, an Italian breed called the Maremma, named Angel. We strive never to kill native predators as we feel they are a vital part of the ecosystem.

Chicken feed is also from Modesto Milling and is certified organic. Ingredients include corn, wheat, soy, kelp, limestone, and vitamins and minerals. Chickens are also given organic brewers grains and organic waste vegetables to diversify their diet and keep our feed costs down. Granite grit and oyster shells are provided at all times to aid in digestion and keep calcium levels up in the hens.

Hens are kept for about two years then sold live to local folks. We are exploring the possibility of processing the hens in order to produce chicken stock and chicken sausage as well.

Beaks are tipped (which is less severe than clipping) by the farm that broods the certified organic chicks for us so they don’t peck each other severely while they are in the brooding phase. (Brooding is the raising of chicks to about 18 weeks old where they are provided with warmth until they have fully feathered out.) We then get the laying hens at 18 weeks old, and put them out on pasture where they will spend the rest of their lives. We do no other body modifications to the birds. We look forward to the day when we have the land tenure and infrastructure to brood our own chicks exactly how we want.

That’s a bit more information than “free range”. And they make damn good eggs. Another great example is “grass fed”. The term is starting to bounce around a little too freely these days. Sometimes it only means that the animals were fed grass for brief periods of their lives. They still suffer from a primarily, and unnaturally, corn-and-antibiotic-fed diet. But the serious ranchers once again stand out with descriptions like: 100% grass-fed, pasture raised, etc. Over time, you get to know the buzzwords and the bullshit becomes clear.

This brings me to Costco. I decided, in fairness, to give it a visit. It has been so long and just like my Trader Joe’s post, I needed to see for myself. I was actually surprised that their basic language seems sensible. They talk a lot about dye-free, biodegradable, cruelty-free, plant based, etc. In most aisles, there was an alternative to chemical-laden counterparts. They also had a lot of gadgetry such as solar panels, LED lights and such. And even some local-supported brands, like ACME breads.

Don’t get me wrong. I called Trader Joe’s a whore. Costco is a chain of brothels containing thousands of whores by comparison. But I see their efforts as positive. First, the concept of buying in bulk is appealing. I’ve heard a lot of disrespect paid to Costco for selling gallons of this and flats of that….but if it reduces packaging in any way, I’m for it, as long as their isn’t increased waste. And be certain their effort to go green is riddled with problems, most of which likely stem from their manufacturing process, packaging and transportation.

But what does it really mean when Costco is actively touting Green products? It means that Green has a voice. The boardrooms are hearing the cry and finding a way to capitalize on it. It’s a start. Sustainability is a long long long way off, but it has to begin somewhere. If Green is the precursor to sustainability, it’s foothold in the Costcos, Sam’s Clubs, Walmarts and Targets of the world is entirely essential. Not necessarily for San Francisco where we can easily eat in Slow-Food restaurants every night for a year without repeating or shop at a Farmer’s Market just about any day. But for the world outside of this bubble, where the ideals of sustainability are simply unfathomable [for now].

So, while I won’t likely be back to Costco more than a once or twice this year, I encourage those who live elsewhere, and seek to improve their impact, to start by changing the toilet paper, dish soap, laundry detergent to these Green products. Of course it doesn’t end there and the ideals of a truly sustainable food system and manufacturing complex should remain our goals, ultimately, no matter where you live.

Do You CSA? Do You, Huh? Huh?

Posted on July 10, 2009 by ezealot

So you read Omnivore’s Dilemma. You saw Food Inc. You’re down with the program. You want to take part in a sustainable food system. Break those ties that bind you!

But……you work long hours. You don’t have time to shop regularly at the farmer’s market. You have to take the kids to swim, soccer, gymnastics, fencing…..We get the picture. It ain’t easy to be a locavore.

Or is it? The time has come to join a CSA. Community supported agriculture, dummy. It means that you subscribe directly to a farm. They get to know that they’re gonna sell stuff. You get good stuff. Sign up, it’s not too expensive. Cut out the middle man. Get it straight from the farm in a box. Eat local. Eat seasonal. Cook creatively. Because since you never really know what you’re going to get, it’s like a Food Network challenge each week. Do you have the skills to tackle this totally random box of produce?

Oh, and I can hear you. Yes, you. You’re saying, how do I even begin to find a farm that has a CSA program. There’s not one near me. Wrong! I’ve got you covered. Well, you didn’t think I’d just throw this shit out there and leave you hanging, did ya? Huh? Huh? Click on the image. Do it!

See that map. That’s a lot of dern farms, y’all. Enter your zip code (the 5 number one, the 3 number one is your area code, silly). Call the farm (you can use the area code here). Introduce yourself. Nice people, eh? Farmer’s tend to be. Ask them if they have pastured eggs. Sign up. Now. Tell ‘em the Zealot sent you.

Easy.

The End of an Affair with Trader Joes

Posted on July 8, 2009 by ezealot

We were once in love. It started, like most loves, at a time when I was more naive than now….

I’ve had a sorted past with supermarkets. I can’t say that I ever paid much attention to who or why before I was twenty five. Back then it was in and out, a quick fix. I wasn’t loyal. Casel’s and Party Pak in Margate, Shop Rite in Philadelphia, Schnuck’s in St. Louis, Upim in Rome. I couldn’t tell you a thing about them, faceless names from my past. They certainly served a need, and may have even facilitated some artistic accomplishments. But they, I regret to say, meant very little me.

supermarket

It wasn’t until I moved to Boulder, Colorado in the early 90s that I started to pay more attention to my markets. It all started with the legendary Alfalfa’s. She was the queen of Boulder and I was a young, strong-willed, naive buck, who needed to be tamed. Here is how we met:

I moved to Boulder without a dime to my name. I chose Boulder because I had a place to crash and a ride from St. Louis, where I had been living with my girlfriend as she finished up at Washington U. I knew little about the place. I arrived at the end of the school year and there was chaos on campus. Kids were smoking pot in the streets. Parties raged at all hours. There were a lot of smelly white kids with dreadlocks and trust funds. I was clearly out of my element.

During the first few days I planned my escape from this crazy place many times. My ex comforted me and convinced me to stay. Go out and explore a little bit. Get settled. So I set out in search of a supermarket to stock up on some supplies. I hunted around “the Hill” where there were nothing but corner stores, bars and restaurants. In a bar that smelled of stale beer a young waitress with the requisite dreads and jean-shorts pointed me down The Hill. Alfalfa’s dude.

When I entered Alfalfa’s I started looking for some bread and peanut butter. Scant money. Simple. I navigated aisle upon aisle of bulk foods, herbal teas, asymmetrical produce, bins and barrels overflowing with quinoa and flaxseed. Where the peanut butter should have been was a grinder with fresh peanuts. Ew. That ain’t skippy. There were jars of almond butter, tahini and $5 jars of “peanut butter “with a thick pool of oil on the top. I just wanted some damn skippy – super chunk. I was ready to cry. Don’t even get me started on the bread.

This was my rude awakening to the conscious age of enlightened shopping. And while Alfalfa’s taught me much, I was still young and stubborn. I ultimately left it for Ideal Market in North Boulder, a gentler market, which was near the community gardens where I supplemented my food supply by growing my own. These were wonderful, wild and free times. I never grew dreads, but I did own plenty of jean-shorts and often smelled.

Then I moved to the big city. After Boulder, everyone went to San Francisco. It was at the peak of the .com era and there was an energy I’ve never experienced before. Rents were outrageous and occupancy was at 100%. I had to interview with hoards of others to score a room in a flat in the Mission. Everyone was talking about their internet startup, stock options, riding scooters in their office, free lunches and Trader Joes. Trader Joes was the young, cool place to shop – I wanted in!

TJs captured the energy of the Bay Area at that time by thinking outside the box. We were reinventing the economy, so why not the supermarket? They worked out crazy deals to repackage and brand foods so that everything had a TJs vibe. Most things tasted pretty good. Their wine was cheap. They had an eye for the exotic and also the familiar. For a while, I was a serious TJs devotee. As a single guy, it wasn’t hard to survive on TJs alone. My needs were filled. I was in love.

As the years went by I found myself relying on TJs less and less. Like any relationship, we reached a level of comfort and the spark was gone. TJs was part of a routine. It became a stop in my cycle of marketing that included Safeway (which I dropped years ago) for essentials and Mollie Stones (I moved too far away) for gourmet goods. I couldn’t quite make the leap to Whole Foods at first, but ultimately I gave in and then they opened one up in my neighborhood, Potrero Hill. Maybe it reminded too much of Alfalfa’s, which I had psychologically left behind (note Alfalfa’s was purchased by Wild Oats, which ultimately was purchased by Whole Foods). For a long time, I was on autopilot and I was ok.

But then came sustainability. Oh, darn you conscience! To the enlightened mind, even Whole Food looks tainted (though I am definitely seeing them make an effort, but that’s another post). It had been a few months since I hit TJs and I’ve avoided putting it under the microscope. Today I walked the aisles, sad to know that we’ve reached the end. For all its ingenuity, TJs just hasn’t evolved. Packaging on top of packaging. Goods shipped in from all over the globe. Processed foodstuffs that rival the Safeways and CalMarts of the world. We cannot turn a blind eye to your indiscretions anymore TJs. You’re kind of a whore.

It saddens me, because I know, TJs, you could be so much more. If you just turned your eye toward the sun you could pioneer a new way. It would be a major shift, but isn’t it worth the effort? Sigh. I suppose I’ll pop in now and again to see how you’re doing, out of nostalgia. You do have the best prices on Barbara’s cereals (which my son loves). Your frozen mac-n-cheese, while loaded with way too much non-foods, is really divine and worth as an infrequent treat (but I will not continue to serve it to my son twice weekly). Maybe I’ll come and stock up on chips and nitrate free hot dogs for parties now and then. If I can find parking, that is.

And….. if you decide to change your ways, you can always find me at the Farmer’s Market.

A Platter of Figs

Posted on June 30, 2009 by ezealot

A good friend of mine calls David Tanis the only real genius he knows personally. Apparently Mr. Tanis operates on another plane of existence when it comes to the culinary arts. As my friend described “David could look at a stack of books and figure out how to realign it’s structure and turn it into something tasty”.

A Platter of Figs - Click to Purchase

David’s cookbook, A Platter of Figs – And Other Recipes, may not stand up to “genius” masterworks in literature, but it is a damn good cookbook. You might not be surprised to learn that I enjoy reading cookbooks cover-to-cover. I don’t often follow recipes strictly, but I relish the idea of the influence gained from studying recipes and applying the theories to my existing skill-set. For that reason alone, Platter is worth owning. More traditional cookbook users, who follow recipes, won’t be disappointed either.

I was really struck by the forward by Alice Waters and the introduction by Mr. Tanis. She provides a glowing and humorous introduction to how he became her chosen-one to run the prestigious kitchen at Chez Panisse many years ago. He speaks of his proclivity towards home cooking and speaks frankly about the impersonal nature of restaurant dining. I found it refreshing from someone who makes a living cooking in a restaurant. I have also come to prefer the intimate dinner party with an appreciative group of friends, spending a day immersed in food from market to table, versus the quick fix and mixed bag of dining out.

This weekend I dove into Platter of Figs by recreating one of his summer menus (pictures below). While his structure was there for guidance, it was wonderful to make interpretations at the market that would result in personalizing the ultimate results. I think my guests would agree it was one of the tastiest meals we’ve served in a while. With that, I give a hearty Zealot recommendation for “A Platter of Figs”.

The menu:

- Acme ciabatta crostini with bellweather farms sheep’ ricotta, the-sweetest-cherry-tomatoes-ever, basil chiffonade.

- Braised dirty girl romano beans with lemon, garlic and chili.

- Long-grilled fennel.

- Radicchio hearts wrapped in pancetta with balsamic.

- Porchetta-style grilled pork loin, rubbed in fennel fronds, rosemary and insanely fresh garlic.

- Macedonia of blueberries and apricots with grappa.

- Brown turkey figs!

: Fennel Frond and Rosemary Rub for Pork

: Braised Romano Beans in Fresh Garlic and Lemon

: Cherry Tomatoes for Ricotta Crostini

: Long-Grilled Fennel

: Porchetta Style Grilled Pork Loin

: A BOWL of Figs

: Last of the Season Blueberries for Ambrosia

Locavore iPhone App

Posted on June 26, 2009 by ezealot

Admittedly, I am a little behind the curve on this one. I believe the Locavore application hit the iTunes store in March or so. As the maven of both technology and food, I’m embarrassed that I didn’t get wind of it until recently. I’m certain that many of you are in the same boat, so I’m posting it now anyway.

As I ranted about with the Local Food Wheel, the Locavor app gives you a rundown of what is in season for any given location. There is a clock icon that gives you a general idea of when a season ends. They also have a preview of what is about to come into season (Figs are starting to appear!!) Outside of the Bay Area or a few other large cities, the information becomes scant but I assume it is only a matter of time before the Slow Food mentality reaches the heartland. (I’m waiting for your complaint “blintz69″ that the LA offerings fall short).

Moreover, Locavore also has Farmer’s Market listings (proximity to you generated by the GPS) so you can easily find one close to you. I’d like to see them add searchable schedules, rather than just pull up the LocalHarvest web page. It would help to be able to look at a calendar and know where the closet market is on any given day.

There is also a community section where you can share feedback on produce in a 150 mile radius, 500 mile radius or The World. I’m not sure what we’re supposed to get out of it, but everyone is about social networking these days.

I think they’ve done an excellent job on the application and can’t wait to see future releases. It’s well worth the $4. You can click here or click on any of the images for the iTunes link to the application.

Pastured Eggs: Why Are They So Damn Good?

Posted on June 23, 2009 by ezealot

I’m here to help you live a better life. No, really, I am! As I’ve described in previous posts, I am a true hedonist and I love to indulge in the pleasures of this wonderful life. I travel all over the world and relishing in the experience of a new culture and the amazing people that populate this planet. I love the arts – theater, music, cinema and will often be caught sitting in my parked car singing at the top of my lungs pounding my dashboard to The Raconteurs, Radiohead or the like. I’ll spend days planning a meal and enter a zen-like state while prepping and cooking. There is nothing that gives me more pleasure.

So, to help you get your hedonism on, I am going to share one of my greatest pleasures. It requires a subtle shift in thinking and a sensibility to appreciate something so simple, so perfect. We’re gonna have some pastured eggs. Now some of you are saying “been there, done that, I get’cha”. I’ll ask you to comment and share your praise and perhaps take a stroll down memory lane to the first time you remember experiencing the revelation. For those who are new to the concept, first a little explanation, courtesy of localharvest.org:

Pasture Raised Chickens

Grass-fed/pastured hens are raised on pasture, as opposed to being kept in confinement and fed primarily grains. Eggs from pastured hens contain up to 20 times more healthy omega-3 fatty acids than those their less fortunate cousins, factory hens.

Pastured hens’ diets are naturally complemented with bugs, earthworms, and other such critters that give their eggs a huge nutritious oomph. Although not necessarilly organic, pastured hens are usually much healthier and happier than their space-restricted and antibiotic-pumped industrial cousins.

Pasturing is the traditional method of raising egg-laying hens and other poultry. It is ecologically sustainable, humane, and produces the tastiest, most nutritious eggs. Pastured eggs also have 10 percent less fat, 40 percent more vitamin A, and 34 percent less cholesterol than eggs obtained from factory farms.

Pastured Eggs

What this means to the egg itself comes twofold: (1) the yolks are nearly orange! Not only does this mean they taste amazing, but they are actually healthier. Research shows that an orange-colored yolk is higher in disease-fighting carotenes. (2) the albumen has more heft. The white will literally stand up in the pan rather than spill out all over the place. Again, it makes for better tasting and more nutritious eggs.

So, here’s the your homework. Everyone should do this. Buy a dozen pastured eggs. This doesn’t mean “cage free” or “free range” or “organic”. These are terms used by the farming industry to fool us into thinking chickens are treated nicely or fed proper diets. Often times there is just a strip of grass outside the coop that the hens will never see. Bullshit! Go to a farmer’s market and ask a farmer for some eggs. Look him in the eye and say “are these going to be the best eggs I’ve ever had?”. If he doesn’t say yes, don’t buy them. Every farmer I’ve ever met thinks he has the best eggs.

Sunny Side Up

For this exercise, I’m not concerned about how you prefer your eggs – trust me. For the first batch make some fried, sunny side up eggs. Take a nice piece of toast and sop up the yolk. Don’t be afraid if it’s farm fresh. Runny is ok. On the next day, scramble them with a little milk. Keep scrambling in the pan until they start to set. Then use your spatula. With the remaining eggs (you should have 4 left if you cooked for your sig-o) make deviled eggs. I’ll post a recipe another time. Try out your favorite here.

If you’re not convinced after this exercise, we might have to break up and no longer be blogger, bloggee. The pastured egg is simply a gift. One worth treasuring. One worth savoring. I’d like to think there are hoards of little zealots out there, hovering over their counter tops, gently handling their eggs, anticipating the first bite, frying, scrambling, boiling.

The Local Foods Wheel

Posted on June 19, 2009 by ezealot

I was at an event last week where Jessica Prentice spoke. In passing she mentioned her Local Foods Wheel, which immediately struck me as brilliant. Since I am not originally from California and don’t have a farmer’s sense, this tool is very helpful to guide my market visits.

Local Foods Wheel

The wheel is currently available in San Francisco and New York varieties (links on the site for where to purchase). The cost is $12.95 plus shipping. I give it a big zealot seal of approval! Go get yours (link on image to visit the site).

For those who haven’t yet discovered the importance of seasonality and eating local, it goes something like this:

Since the dawn of agriculture humankind has operated on a schedule of seasonality. We ate food when the earth could produce it, relative to the location where it was produced. It’s a simple cycle that we’ve broken with our greed for convenience. And……local food just tastes better. It’s fresher and smaller, which means it wasn’t engineered to be bigger and full of water = flavorless.

Purchasing your food out of season means that it must be grown in far off places. The environmental impact of transporting these foods gobbles up unnecessary natural resources. On a planet with a global climate crisis, it is best to try to minimize our impact. Moreover, by eating local you support small farmers and build community relationships, which goes a long way in knowing where your food really comes from. The era of industrialized farming has done a lot to make corporate profits, but very little to support farmers. Plus, pesticides and chemicals are necessary to support the monoculture mentality of the modern agri-business, which does no good for the soil or the people who consume them.

There are many books, blogs and a few movies (including Food Inc – have you seen it??) available to provide more information, if you’re interested.

Food Inc. – Please Go Now.

Posted on June 16, 2009 by ezealot

I’m not the most polite person. But I am asking you please, please go see Food Inc. now.

It’s not that the movie has any revelations beyond Omnivore’s Dilemma or Fast Food Nation. It’s also not the most exciting movie you will see this year. In fact, you may gasp now and then.

But it could be the most important movie you see this year.

The reason is that the topic of sustainability in our food system is reaching a tipping point. The mainstream media has not caught on, but a few shooting stars are getting seen. Alice Waters has been everywhere in the past year. Michael Pollan is starting to be everywhere (did you catch him on Bill Mahr?).

By seeing this movie, you will help to get it distributed to more theaters. That’s how small films move. The money has to be there for the distributor to open up more markets. The buzz created can send it national and receive the attention it deserves.

So, even if you have read the books and already know your local farmers by name, or, if you’re remotely interested in learning more about corporate agri-business, processed foods, feedlot conditions, or, you’d like to put a face to the names like Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms (what a character!) – go see the film.

A brief review: unfortunately the film suffers to comparison with Omnivore’s Dilemma, which is much more thorough on the subject. At times it felt like I was only getting a window into the massive problem. Still, the window that Food Inc. opens it incredibly important for reaching a greater mass of people who are completely unaware of what they are putting into their bodies and the resulting effects.

The film was beautifully shot and is supplemented with some of the best graphics I’ve seen in documentary filmmaking. The story holds up but gets a little jumpy here and there. There are plenty of impact moments, particularly with the story of Kevin’s law (I won’t give it away). You cannot walk away from this film feeling good about eating processed foods or corn-fed animals.

At the least, I hope this film inspires people to read the books for a more detailed understanding of the problem. It’s not that I am so compassionate towards others. I’ve often felt that if people want to wallow in their ignorance and gorge themselves on Pepsi and MacDonalds, so be it. But there are two issues with that. (1) People are unaware because there is deception. If our government produces food guidelines that benefit giant corporations, there is something very wrong. (2) The only way that my son will have better chance in the future is if there is a mass demand for sustainably produced food.

So, please, go see the movie. Put your thinking caps on. Read the books. There’s gonna be a lot more of this to come from me.

Pal’s Takeaway is the Real Deal

Posted on June 15, 2009 by ezealot

Here’s a novel concept. Take over the sandwich counter at a crappy corner store. Bring your farmer’s market sensibility, solid culinary skills and a sense of humor. Make kick-ass sandwiches and salads.

That’s what’s going down in the Mission these days. Tucked inside Tony’s Market on the corner of 24th Street and Hamphshire, Pal’s Takeaway should be on everyone’s short list of destination lunches.

The menu changes daily. They tend to feature three or four sandwiches (like Grilled, marinated ranch beef banh mi w/ cucumber, cilantro, carrot-daikon, jalapeno,
herbed canola mayo), a side salad (like Riverdog mountain rose potato salad w/ corn, radish, broccoli sprout, fresh herbs) and 4505 Meats Chicharrones.

4505 Meats Hot Dog at Pal's Take Away

On Friday I tried a 4505 Meats Hot Dog with corn relish. It was really an experience, as Ryan Farr, the owner of 4505 clearly knows what he is doing with pork. The combination of this heritage hot dog with the sweet corn and a house made chili (just a schmear for flavor) worked very well. I downed the thing in a few bites. Then I dug into a version of potato salad that looked like it might be dry and flavorless. Rather, it popped with spring peas, fresh dill, a little acidity and perfect seasoning. I couldn’t wait for a fork so I dug in with my fingers while driving.

I’m quite excited by the new breed of sustainable food businesses and Pal’s scores big with their innovative entry. I’m guessing they’ll be buying Tony out or moving into their own space soon enough….

Berkeley Farmer’s Market

Posted on June 5, 2009 by ezealot

I’ve been dissing Berkeley for a long time. Julie always said she could live in the East Bay and I would counter that “I couldn’t take all of the armpit hair” or “the Patchouli would suffocate me” or “I’d probably drive off the Bay Bridge if I had to use it to commute”. Well, I must be going nuts, because I am starting to soften.

Berkeley Farmer's Market

Last night we decided to step outside our norm and hit the Berkeley Farmer’s Market. Years ago, I had been to the Center Street @ MLK location and was pretty impressed. I went with my friend CSP, who is a Queen Bee in the world of the East Bay food elite. I was a little intimidated back then. This time we hit the Shattuck @ Rose location. The vibe was decidedly East Bay, but free from armpit hair and patchouli. Kids were running around. People were chatting casually. Live musicians were playing. Everyone was friendly.

Like most Bay Area markets, the produce was exceptional. I picked up some little gems, pasture-raised eggs, a flat of strawberries, spring onions and some very healthy looking spinach. Judah grabbed an ice cream cone with his pal Caroline and they raced up and down the well-protected street (homemade cones! what a great idea). Our friend Greg snapped photos (seen here, thanks!) as the light was terrific and the colors of the wares were vibrant.

Judah and Caroline with their Cones

Afterward we walked a block away to a playground across for the kids to play. I surprised Julie by saying that I could actually consider this sort of country living (two of my favorite people live right across the street from that park). We ate dinner at Breads of India, which I remember being a lot better than it was. Tonight the sauces weren’t complex enough with far too little salt. At least the breads were still great.

Then it was time to head back across the bridge. I only cursed at four or six people on the way home, as opposed to my usual ten. Berkeley definitely had an effect on me.

Sustainability Overhaul: Step One

Posted on May 24, 2009 by ezealot

As I mentioned in earlier posts, I was very effected by Michael Pollan’s books and would like to make changes to our current diet. Julie and I actually eat somewhat close to the prescribed ideal. But Judah is another story. We’ve been very lazy with our approach to child food and, as a result, have been feeding him far too many non-whole-food products.

Without getting too soap-boxy (I’ll leave you to read the books and get specifics for yourselves), the problem is that much of the food we (as in Americans) consume each day is not actually food. Our “food system” has become a a vehicle for the delivery of processed ingredients, mostly corn-based, via food-like products. If you read the labels on your foodstuffs and it has more than five ingredients, or you don’t recognize most of the ingredients (don’t be fooled by words that sound familiar – broccoli is broccoli, tomatoes are tomatoes) chances are you are eating the very stuff that has made our nation so unhealthy and overweight.

Equally, if not more, troubling is that when we choose our meat, we must remember that we aren’t just getting nutrition from the meat itself. Rather, we must consider that we eat what our meat eats. Again, corn is a major culprit. You can read Pollan’s history of how corn became the defacto diet of our livestock, which is only part of the disturbing story here. Feedlot conditions, disease and antibiotics all paint a very scary portrait of industrial meat production. But most importantly, the negative effects have made their way into our diet. Cows were meant to eat grass and the dietary effects of that are tantamount to creating a more sustainable and healthy diet for my family.

What also surprised me, and is prompting my change, is that even if you are shopping at Whole Foods, you are not exempt from these problems. I’ve been a holier-than-thou Whole Foods junkie for years. Unfortunately, organic corn-based processed foods are very present in much of the offerings on their shelves and their meat, eggs and dairy are not necessarily all that pious. I thought that WF was watching my back but sadly it seems that they are not terribly distant from the same problems that plague the likes of traditional supermarkets. Being “organic” just isn’t enough.

So what does all of this mean for me and my family? As I said, I have to trust that you have read or will read the books to understand the breadth of reasons why we are making these decisions. And, I am not a person of extremes. Our lives are simply too busy to eat every meal from more-than-organic farms and pastured 100% grass-fed meats. This is the goal, but the reality needs to be more flexible.

With that, I’d like to chronicle my attempts by posting the specific trials and tribulations of a family attempting sustainability. Today we’ve made the first step. We used to receive a weekly delivery from Planet Organics, which we are now resuming. I am trying to vette them as much as possible, which is not an easy process. From what I can tell, they support local, sustainable farmers, including Marin Sun Farms Meats, which is 100% grass-fed. Still, I’d like to know more about the specific farms they support and the processes of those farms. The devil is in the details.

Additionally, I will still need to shop at Whole Foods or Rainbow Grocery, but with a much keener eye than before. Gone are the days of believe the low-fat hype. No longer will I grab boxes with health claims and food-like substances just because in-Whole-Foods-we-trust! I feel empowered and will not fall pray to the bullshit that has encumbered our society, unless I choose to (which those who know me, know that I have a soft-spot for junk food and am fully aware of my shortcomings!).

Lastly, the farmer’s markets of the Bay Area provide the best way to connect with my food sources and I plan to expand my horizons to include Alemany (yeah Nicole!) and Berkeley (yeah Cristina!). I’ve been a Ferry Building fan since inception, but my wallet suffers each week and I need additional resources.

It won’t be easy to break Judah of his chicken-dinosaur, fish-stick, hot dog, pizza, spaghetti and macaroni & cheese diet. But if we learned anything from Greece is that with patience and the right timing, he’ll open up to other foods. In the interest of his carbon and nitrogen composition, and avoiding the epidemics of type-2 diabetes, heart disease and cancer, we need to break out of the corn-based diet and bring real foods into his life. Our lives.

The Pastoral Life: Folengandros

Posted on May 18, 2009 by ezealot

The heaviness of Santorini was lifted as soon as we reached the port. Our ferry was bound for Ios, Sikinos, Folengandros and Milos. We were planning to head to Milos and thought a couple day’s stop in Folengandros would be a nice transition. We heard that it has majestic cliffs and a charming small-village culture. It would be a welcome change to the angst of Santorini.

Judah Climbs to the Church, Folengandros, Greece

Folengandros has a population of about 650 during the summer and 350 the rest of the year. It is quite mountainous and the towering cliffs serve as a deterrent to most beach-seeking tourists. In fact, for many years the island was known as the Alcatraz of Greece, as exiles were sent here. Nowadays it seems to be home to a slow-moving group of Greeks who seek the simple life are unrepentant about it. And they’ve got a ton of Churches in which to repent.

Sheep Herding, Folengandros, Greece

We drove around the island yesterday and saw an abundance of grazing goat and sheep. Having just completed Omnivore’s Dilemma I’ve been wrestling with how we can find a balance in our lives by seeking a more sustainable food supply. Seeing these animals that will ultimately become my “Matsada”, a local dish I am excited to try this evening, I can’t help think that there was a time where it was easier to find that balance. And, in some places, it is still the only option. On this island of 350 full-time residents, these pastoral animals are their primary source of meat.

Meatballs and Fried Potatoes, Irene's, Folengandros, Greece

But, I’d like to get back to food. The lunch we just ate brought my attention full-circle. Not necessarily for the quality of the food or the uniqueness of the preparations, but rather because of the simplicity and honesty of it. The setting was a courtyard outside a makeshift kitchen, which clearly occupied the ground floor of the owner’s home. Irene, in fact, was the owner, as the name of her restaurant attests. Her husband joins her in the kitchen, where they sincerely seem to take pride in feeding others.

J&J at Irene's, Folengandros, Greece

We lunched on Greek Salad, meatballs and fried potatoes, zucchini cakes, and a toasted garlic bread. Everything was tasty, fresh and made with care. Any restaurant would be proud to offer such quality. Judah even left behind his phobias to try the meatballs and proclaimed them “yummy”. But what stole the show was the [free] cake that arrived at the end of the meal. It was a moist yellow cake with lemon and honey. Utter perfection. We all gobbled it up with abandon and applauded our hosts when they returned.

Lemon Honey Cake, Irene's, Folengandros, Greece

This meal marked a clear departure from the past four days and a return to some of the themes we started with in Greece. For one, we didn’t receive a single free treat in Santorini. Not that we expect it or require it, but it was certainly part of the charm of our first week in Greece. Moreover, it represents the local’s true desire to welcome their guests. And we do feel welcome. When I offered “bravo” (the Greeks have borrowed the word from the Italians) they were effusive with their thanks. For us, it is a great way to start the final week of our trip.

Required Reading: Omnivore’s Dilemma

Posted on May 11, 2009 by ezealot

Omnivore's Dilemma

People have been telling me since the 2006 publication of Omnivore’s Dilemma that I must read it. Unfortunately the choices I make to manage my time on a daily basis have excluded reading. Next to food and travel, reading is a top passion of mine and I plan to reintroduce it as a regular element in my life. Fortunately when I travel I inhale books, so I try to catch up every time I’m on the road.

On this trip I’ve finally gotten to Michael Pollan’s masterwork. While all of the themes he discusses are quite familiar to me, the level of detail, investigation, history and insight makes Omnivore’s Dilemma a veritable textbook for anyone who eats. His research into the industrial food complex and pastoral farming are essential in aiding the choices we make at the supermarket, farmer’s market on in our own backyards.

I’ll get on my soapbox another time. I’d like to start a category specifically to discuss sustainable eating. I have a lot to say. But for now, let’s all get on the same page and read Omnivore’s Dilemma. If you have, post a comment about your experience. If you haven’t, pick it up and let me know.

Purchase The Omnivore’s Dilemma: HERE

The Epicurean Zealot

An opinion-laden guide to San Francisco's culinary culture.

Category Archives: Sustainable Eating