Friday Dish: Salt House Poutine

Posted on July 31, 2009 by ezealot

Ask me for my top ten list of San Francisco foods – individual items – and you will find a curious and unique treat way at the tippy top of the list (hmmm, post idea). Salt House does a crazy good, French-Canadian, gut-wrenching, heart-stopping, I-dream-about-you-when-it’s-been-a-week-or-two-since-last-gazing-into-your-crispy-mounds………Poutine.

Salt House Poutine

Let’s get some wiki on it:

Poutine (Quebec French pronunciation ˈputsɪn (help·info)) is a dish consisting of French fries topped with fresh cheese curds, covered with brown gravy and sometimes additional ingredients. ^[1]

Poutine is a diner staple which originated in Quebec and can now be found across Canada. It is sold by both fast food chains (such as New York Fries,Harvey’s, Ed’s Subs^[2]), in small “greasy spoon” type diners (commonly known as “casse-croûtes” in Quebec) and pubs, as well as by roadside chip wagons. International chains like McDonald’s,^[3] A&W,^[4] KFC and Burger King^[5] also sell mass-produced poutine. Popular Quebec restaurants that serve poutine include Chez Ashton (Quebec City), La Banquise (Montreal), Louis (Sherbrooke), Lafleur Restaurants, Franx Supreme ^[6], La Belle Province, Le Petit Québec and Dic Ann’s Hamburgers. Along with fries and pizza, poutine is a very common dish sold and eaten in high school cafeterias in various parts of Canada.

Now you know that Salt House isn’t going to go pedestrian with this pedestrian dish. No, no, no sir [maam] we’re gittin’ gourmet with our poutine. Here’s what I know:

French fries – double fried so they’ll stay crispy under the cheese and gravy. Peanut oil, I’ve been told.
Bravo Farms cheddar – located in Traver, CA halfway between Fresno and Bakersfield. Must have some nice cows out there. Lovely melting goodness.
Short ribs gravy – long braised and savory, rich, luscious, silky.

Add it all up and you get a treat for the ages. Really, I’m not kidding. Here’s another street food idea. Make a poutine cart and park it in front of my showroom. I will get fat and won’t care. I’d die happy.

Get your poutine at Salt House [LINK]. Make a reservation for lunch just in case. Let me know what you think.

In Praise of Sardines: Contigo Review

Posted on July 29, 2009 by ezealot

Scored a sweet last-minute table at Contigo thanks to rockstar Glickenator. We let the waitress do all of the ordering for us, which has really become my favorite way of experiencing a restaurant. Overall, I would say that this place is standout and has a lot of the qualities I love in a restaurant. The design is flawless. Very inviting and charming with modern touches like: all of their refrigerators are lined up in plain view next to the bathroom. The owners are clearly passionate about Spanish food and seem to be creating a community vibe in the place. Chef Brett Emerson is an alumni of Zax and Zax Tavern, L’Amie Donia, Bizou (all are now closed), Lulu, and the Greens. He also has a blog called In Praise of Sardines [LINK].

We started with a host of fish courses, despite indicating that two of our diners were not fans of fish. More for me I suppose, but it did seem a bit inconsiderate. The Sardines were wonderful, thick with a bite of fishy up front but a mellow finish. I wasn’t a huge fan of the tomato and anchovy dish – I felt the anchovies overpowered some really good tomatoes! But the octopus, oh the octopus. It was exceptionally tender with a hint of dressing and a crunch of friseé. Lovely.

The Serano ham could have been the best I’ve ever had. Sliced to order and clearly a good batch. It’s amazing how a bit of charcuterie can be so right or so wrong (here me Gialina and Tony’s!). I was conflicted with the oxtail croquetas. The crunch of vegetables was both interesting and a little curious. I still haven’t resolved that one. But one thing I definitely resolved was that I loved the pork belly bocadillos, which is essentially a bacon hamburger. A nice, not too fatty slab was piled with onions and allioli on a bun. Served with mini paprika potato chips. Ah.

The little gem salad didn’t knock my socks off. It seemed to be on the menu just to fit in to San Francisco. I was also a little soft on their albondigas [meatballs]. I liked the meat itself, a lot. But it needed sme salt and could have had a zippier sauce for my preference. But the garden lettuces with sherry vinegar was on point. They accented it with caña de oveja cheese and toasted hazelnuts. More more more.

We all enjoyed a chicken dish served with insanely sweet caramelized onions and a risotto made with paella rice. The chicken itself was perfectly cooked and as tasty as chicken can be, but I kept scooping up the rice and onions. I could have had a dish of just those. We ended with a catalonian flan that was stellar. But the dessert that stole the show was a cup of hot chocolate with hot and crispy churros to dip. Are you kidding me? Nice.

Contigo is definitely worth a visit. I suspect it will have staying power as a neighborhood joint. Frankly, it’s the best thing going in Noe. I’m not sure if it will reach legendary heights. There is still room for someone to take Spanish food to another level in San Francisco. I’m waiting for a proper Basque-style pinchos [basque tapas] joint. Anyone?

Farmer Browns: Little Skillet

Posted on July 28, 2009 by ezealot

The street food trend is reaching a tipping point. This is a good thing – damn good thing. The more the merrier! I’m still waiting for a Thai food vendor. Sticky rice and mangos, noodle stall, Thai coffee – just like Bangkok…..I can’t imagine a better cuisine to represent (I’m just handing out business ideas here people). Who’s with me?

Last week I stumbled on to Little Skillet [LINK], the latest venture from the folks at Farmer Browns. I say stumble because I had heard about the place and planned to visit, but never put two and two together until I was walking down Townsend for a business thing and looked down the alley to see a mob of people hanging out in an alley huddled over corn-based food boxes. After my meeting I came back. The setup is very cool – it feels out of place off of bustling Townsend street, but immediately you are transported into a soul food vacuum.

The menu is a simple extension of the Framer Brown’s concept: soul food with a sustainable slant. They have chicken and waffles, biscuits and gravy, a bunch of po boys: pulled pork, creole shrimp, some salads and sides. The dudes in the window are hopping kicking out box after box with some attitude to boot. Bring it.

The pulled pork is great – a little greasy, a little spicy – tons of flavor. The fried chicken is good. Not the best in the city, but becomes transcendent paired with a good waffle (belgian style), some syrup and a little side of their sausage gravy. Ok, we’re talking coronary, but acceptable for an infrequent treat, right? So why have I had it twice in a week?

What’s more important here, and bound to be the subject of future posts, is that the street food era is upon us, in full force. Almost to the point where it’s becoming prosaic. And I’m so completely on board. I love the idea of getting quality food from a stand, cart, window or stall. I’m a busy guy. I don’t often have the desire or time to sit down for a long lunch, but damned if I’m gonna eat fast food. This trend allows for me to track down some serious eats in just about every neighborhood in town to grab a quick fix or to even feed my crew on a job site. It’s a wonder it hasn’t caught on sooner, since every other culture in the world has rocking street food.

Little Skillet is a welcomed entrant into the genre. In fact, they are a model for the simplicity in form and execution that keeps San Francisco on the cutting edge (mimicking concepts practiced universally around the world, of course!).

Tony, the Pizza Champ?

Posted on July 2, 2009 by ezealot

I’m nearing the end of my patience with pizza posts. It’s incredible how many places are pushing the Neapolitan-style pizza in such a short period of time. I’ve tried to keep up. I’ve tried to impart my experience and wisdom. I’ve tried to stay positive. But lo, I think I’m going three-for-three in a string of reviews – yes another dud. A big steaming, loaded-with-expectations disappointment dud. But first, let’s take stock:

Pizzeria Delfina, Flour & Water, Pizza Nostra, Piccino, Pizzeria Picco, Pizzaiolo, Gialini, Ideale are all kicking out high-temperature oven, thin, Neapolitan style za, many of which are new to the scene. This doesn’t even include the non-Neapolitan varieties like Arinelle, Paxti’s, Little Star, Pauline’s, Gaspare’s, Amici’s, Goat Hill, North Beach, Tomasso’s, Golden Boy and countless others that capture the imagination of many a pizza lover. The stuff’s everywhere.

I’ve been waiting for Tony’s Pizza Napoletana since I first heard about it last year. According to his web site (by the way, if graphic design is any clue to the ability to run a restaurant, this place was doomed from the get-go). His credentials seem strong. Tony Gemignani is the first Master Instructor in the United States. Tony has won more World tiles and international awards than any competitor in history, including the Neapolitan Champion at the 2007 World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy for the Best STG Neapolitan Pizza Margherita. Tony is the only Two Time Food Network Gold Medalist and is a certified master from the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli.

Not only was Tony opening a school to teach other Pizzaoilis, but he was taking over La Felce on Washington Square Park to open a restaurant focused on pizza. He would have New York style, California style and the coveted Neapolitan style with 73 of his famous Margheritas made daily. I dreamed about this place. I waited patiently, as there never seemed to be any news about it. I called to inquire about signing up for classes (the schedule for the fall is not yet available).

Finally, last week I heard that Tony’s was opening. We immediately made a plan and waited a few days to make sure they sorted out any initial issues. I new this was going to be a step above. But the disappointments started mounting up from the moment we entered. The design of the restaurant is straightforward enough. A lot of tile and pictures of pizza on the walls. We were seated in the first booth and the afternoon sun was bouncing off of the floor, practically blinding me. There were no shades, so I sat blinded the entire meal. It’s not a huge deal, but you’d think a restaurant owner would consider all facets of the customer experience.

The waiter came and had horrible breath. It was salt in wound. Imagine being blinded and then getting a face full of munk? Eat a breath mint buddy. We ordered a Chalk Hill Sav Blanc (not much excitement happening on the wine list, BTW) which arrived room temperature. Add it all up now, blinded, breathed and yeasty warm wine.

We ordered a number of things on the menu. While I know this is supposed to be a pizza place, if you’re going to have other things on the menu, you might try to make them appetizing. The Caesar salad could possible have been the worst I’ve ever eaten. Really. The lettuce was wilted (mind you they have only been open for 4 days – how could their produce go bad?), watery and flavorless – probably bagged and shipped half way across the country. The croutons were stale and also flavorless. It was a huge mess. The radicchio salad might have been even worse. The greens were actually browning. There were chewy bits of pancetta, Costco-variety bocconcini mozzarella balls and a smattering of balsamic. I made better salad in the 80s. One would expect that since they have a burrata on the menu, they would have avoided the crappy mozza for this salad.

Speaking of the burrata, we ordered it with San Daniele proscuitto. It was ok. Meh. A couple of slices of meat and some watery cheese. Again, I have to state that despite being a pizza restaurant, I can’t let the entirety of the experience slide. So many people are providing the whole package that it’s just inexcusable to be so negligent on the auxiliary experience. We also had a calzone. It was deep fried. Reminded me of boardwalk fare from my Atlantic City days. It was like eating a meatball and ricotta-stuffed-doughnut. I kinda liked it, except that it had too much garlic.

Ok, so on to the pizza. We ordered two of the Margheritas. They were good. Pretty darn good. Comparable to the best in the city. Nice balance of cheese, great crust, sweet sauce. It was really close, but I found it lacking something, and my 4-year old provided the answer. He was looking for a shaker of cheese on the table and mistook the salt. We caught him in time to not totally ruin his slice, but ultimately I wound up scavenging his scraps. It was the best piece I ate! After that, we all added a little salt to improve the pie.

Tony's Famous Pizza Margherita

So here’s where I go off a little. Considering Tony’s credentials, I am expecting to compare this to the pizza I eat in Italy. I’ve stated this numerous times that even the best pizza in the US somehow cannot stand up to your average pizza in Italy. At Tony’s nearly everything is imported and he’s got the cred (and had no problem touting that he’s a master). It’s gotta hold up. But in the end, I found that it was comparable to the Neapolitan pizza in the USA. I think Tony could stand along side Charlie and Craig and hold his head high. He might even win a competition. But against the stuff I ate in Italy, it’s still not there.

As I am editing I can see how some might actually find this to be a positive review. Bottom line, if you are in North Beach and you want some pizza, you might saunter up to the bar at Tony’s and order a Margherita and you won’t be disappointed. I actually still might take the certification course. It’s all about the pizza. Or, you could walk around the corner to Ideale and get comparable pizza with great starters, salads, sides, ambiance and service. The whole package.

I’m done with negative reviews for a while. I don’t care if I eat crap for the next month, I will find something positive about which to write. I may be a Zealot, but I’m a nice one. Promise.

Hair of the Dog

Posted on June 25, 2009 by ezealot

Oh Charles! Why oh why, Charles?

In the late 90s I lived on 18th and Valencia. Regularly, on my way home from work I would stop off at the Slanted Door for some Shaking Beef, Fresh Spring Rolls or Clay Pot Chicken. The energy of the first SD location was the epitome of the boom days of the .com era. Mission hipsters lined up down the block, the music was loud, the food was innovative and unique, the vibe was perfect.

Charles Phan at Heaven's Dog

Perfect, so much so, the rest is the tale of San Francisco restaurant legend. First there was the temporary location in South Beach (never made it, sorry). Then the big Ferry Building gamble that paid off in spades (Slanted Door is one of the top grossing restaurants in the city). Next, another gamble on Out the Door, which I think the jury is still out-the-door on (man, I’m just kicking the puns this week!). They certainly seem consistently busy there and overcame a massive ceiling water burst, which closed them for a few weeks. Then there was the cafeteria at the Academy of Arts and Sciences, which I am guessing was an ego venture.

And now we have Heaven’s Dog, the latest venture from the Phan family located on the ground floor of the Soma Grand on Mission Street at 7th Street. I met my pal Tony for lunch, despite his protestations. It seems the “Dog” wasn’t getting good reviews. But, how could that be possible? At the least, with Charles’ influence, there had to be a sensible menu with a handful of well-executed gems. Right? Charles? Right?

Unfortunately this isn’t one of those happy endings. In fact, everything we ate (and we both agreed, so this isn’t my jaded view) was just plain bad. I know that this my second negative restaurant review in a row (see Gialina) but I can’t say a single positive thing about the food at Heaven’s Dog. Here’s the rundown:

Upon our server’s recommendation we had the pork belly & bun appetizer. This was probably the best dish, but it just came up dry. The meat was juicy and would have been fine in another vessel, but the bun was dry and needed some sort of sauce. Just a simple hit of a plum-type sauce would have done the trick. Or maybe an innovative fiery broth from the mind of Charles. But no.

Pork Belly Bun

Next were house-special dumplings, again upon recommendation. The skins were mushy, the broth inside wasn’t terribly tasty and the meat was just a lump of ground pork. They served it with a soy sauce and ginger – neither added anything. I kept thinking of the comparable dumpling at Yank Sing, which is on another planet by comparison. Everything about the Yang Sing dumpling screams exceptional. I don’t understand why Charles wouldn’t aspire to do better.

For mains we went with more suggestions (maybe our waitress wanted to torture us?) – Salt and Pepper Squid and Braised Kale. We expected the squid to be fresh and tender. What we got was greasy, chewy and salty fried calamari. Absolutely nothing innovative about it. We couldn’t even finish it. The Kale looked promising. It was bright green and seemed to be cooked perfectly. But then we tasted the sauce. It was essentially soy sauce. I tasted nothing but soy. So, I was eating bad calamari and kale soaked in soy.

As we finished up I looked around the room and started wondering where the name came from. Waiting for the check, the kale sat in front of me and I started to think that it smelled like a wet dog. It all made sense.

I still believe Charles is a superstar. Whenever we have guests in town I take them to the Ferry Building and brave the crowds for a nostalgic Shaking Beef or Imperial Roll. But if this meal was any example of what’s cooking at Heaven’s Dog, and other reviewers seem to confirm, Charles may be spread too thin. We have the right to expect more.

Ice Cream is the New Cupcake

Posted on June 24, 2009 by ezealot

Last year we had cupcakes. Way way too many cupcakes for my waistline. So what hot trend comes just in time for the summer of aught-nine? Carrot sticks? Brussel Sprouts? No, it’s fatty-ass, fatty-fat-fat ice cream. And I’m psyched. Here’s a run down on the hotspots for getting creamed-up this summer.

BiRite Creamery – Who would have thunk that this is already the old-hat in the new trend of scoop shops in the city? BiRite has developed a cult following and is the perfect pairing with a day at Dolores Park topped off with Pizzeria Delfina (my son’s favorite playdate). Standout flavors are Roasted Banana (in fact, get a roasted banana pie with graham crust and meringue topping for your next party – oh oh oh). Salted Caramel, Balsamic Strawberry and Honey Lavender are also some favorites. You really can’t go wrong with anything here.

Humphry Slocombe – With decidedly more attitude, sass and panache, HS opened a few months ago down the street from me. Their Salt & Pepper is nucking futs! Other standouts are the Secret Breakfast (with Bourbon and Cornflakes), Olive Oil, Blue-Bottle Vietnamese Coffee. They take things to a new level (Government Cheese? Pistachio Bacon!). Aside from ice cream you can also grab things like Bacon Peanut Brittle and Shortbread Cookies made with Lardo. I give HS the nod for coolest kid on the block. Follow Jake’s twitter feed @humphryslocombe to keep up with flavors.

Humphry Slocombe Is Cool!

Xanath - Brand spanking new in the Mission, with some straightforward flavors, centered around the vanilla bean (they import vanilla and saffron as another business). Mixed reviews on yelp so far and I haven’t bean (get it, bean, like vanilla). Don’t see a web site. Missionites like dem some ice cream, eh? Mitchells ain’t the only game in town.

Ici – The East Bay is not exempt from the trends. Ici is a project by yet another Chez Panisse disciple. Alice breeds them, doesn’t she? Ice cream is good, with some innovative flavors, but not over the top. What I really love is their homemade cones. They’re like crispy pancakes with a dollop of chocolate at the bottom to prevent dripping. Check them out at the Berkeley Farmer’s Market in addition to their scoop shop.

Ici in Berkeley

Tara’s Organic – There’s a battle brewing in them thar hills! If you check out the Yelp! pages for Tara’s, it seems that there ain’t room enough for two organic queens of Berkeley. Tara’s was established in 2005 by Tara Esperanza in Santa Fe, NM. In August of 2008 Tara’s moved to Berkeley (naturally). She’s got a boatload of creative ingredient (Pink Peppercorn, Stout with Fudge, Plum Ginger to name a few) and has every organic certification under the sun!

Three Twins – This Height Store is a branch of a Marin and Napa mini-chain. They offer very straightforward flavors and appear to be seeking to dethrone Ben & Jerrys for the gen-next Ice Cream empire.

With this bounty of new places, the one company that is really raking in the $$$ is Straus dairy. As I’ve recently learned, almost all of these places use the Straus base to avoid complications in pasteurization. Good for you Straus!

Look out for a new scoop shop in your neighborhood soon. Maybe it’ll be in that old cupcake shop from last year.

Pal’s Takeaway is the Real Deal

Posted on June 15, 2009 by ezealot

Here’s a novel concept. Take over the sandwich counter at a crappy corner store. Bring your farmer’s market sensibility, solid culinary skills and a sense of humor. Make kick-ass sandwiches and salads.

That’s what’s going down in the Mission these days. Tucked inside Tony’s Market on the corner of 24th Street and Hamphshire, Pal’s Takeaway should be on everyone’s short list of destination lunches.

The menu changes daily. They tend to feature three or four sandwiches (like Grilled, marinated ranch beef banh mi w/ cucumber, cilantro, carrot-daikon, jalapeno,
herbed canola mayo), a side salad (like Riverdog mountain rose potato salad w/ corn, radish, broccoli sprout, fresh herbs) and 4505 Meats Chicharrones.

4505 Meats Hot Dog at Pal's Take Away

On Friday I tried a 4505 Meats Hot Dog with corn relish. It was really an experience, as Ryan Farr, the owner of 4505 clearly knows what he is doing with pork. The combination of this heritage hot dog with the sweet corn and a house made chili (just a schmear for flavor) worked very well. I downed the thing in a few bites. Then I dug into a version of potato salad that looked like it might be dry and flavorless. Rather, it popped with spring peas, fresh dill, a little acidity and perfect seasoning. I couldn’t wait for a fork so I dug in with my fingers while driving.

I’m quite excited by the new breed of sustainable food businesses and Pal’s scores big with their innovative entry. I’m guessing they’ll be buying Tony out or moving into their own space soon enough….

Gialina Review: I Ain’t Buying It!

Posted on June 12, 2009 by ezealot

Gialina Menu

Here comes a rant…… I ain’t buying it! When I read Alan Richman’s article “American Pie” I was floored to learn that there was a pizza place in San Francisco that made his top 25 IN THE COUNTRY (YES ALL CAPS) and I haven’t been there! How could it be? If anyone knows the pizza of San Francisco, especially Neapolitan style, it’s me, right? You read my blog, you know.

I dug further. Michael Bauer raved in his “Pizza Friday” blurb in 2007. Then he did it again in 2009. I searched my back-issues of Tablehopper and found mentions on Sep 18 2007, Nov 13 2007, Mar 4 2008, Aug 12 2008, Mar 31 2009 and May 26 2009. Marcia calls it “one of her favs”. I started to think that if I was ever going to do this blog justice, I might have to abandon my business and search for pizza night and day.

Of course I had to go. I took one of my pizza compadres, BH, and our lady-folk along and journeyed to exotic Glen Park. I was gonna have great pizza! But I didn’t. Sorry, no intent to offend. No disrespect to Marcia, Michael or Alan – but you’re all crazy. The pizza at Gialina simply doesn’t hold up.

Given, the place is very charming, especially for Glen Park. It’s modern, clean and bustling. There are lots of windows and it feels very inviting. The clientele seems generally proud and excited to eat there. We had a number of people tell us we were in for a treat. It felt cultish, which furthered my embarrassment that Gialina was off my radar.

Gialina Wall Photograph

We started with meatballs, covered with provolone. I found the balls to be tasty enough, but they were drowned in sauce and cheese. Lose the sauce, lose the cheese. If you’re making good meat, showcase the meat. Which brings me to their antipasti plate, filled with Boccalone goods. I’ve said it before – I’m just not bowled over by Boccalone. For some reason it worked better at Beretta, but here the accouterments and presentation just lacked. It wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t all that good.

The best app they served was “Long Cooked Romano Beans w/ preserved lemon”. I commented that it reminded me of Italy. Seriously, it was one of those experiences that transports you straight to the heart of a Roman trattoria. I can’t say the same of the “Leaf Lettuces w/ cherries, goat cheese & pistachios”. All I could muster was ‘meh’. The little gems looks infiinitely better and I was sorry for taking the waitress’s suggestion.

Gialina Margarita

But this was about pizza. I was going to have one of the best 25 pizzas in America. All is forgiven. Bring on the pie. We ordered the margarita, which is my reference point pie, despite the waitress’s comment that it wasn’t her favorite. We did try her favorite and the reason for the GQ kudos, “Wild Nettles w/ Boccalone pancetta, mushrooms, red onions & provolone”.

I must preface my comments with some information. In 2004 the Italian government drew up a series of laws to protect the integrity of pure Neapolitan pizza making. You can read an article from the BBC here. This is the standard for which I base my opinions of this style of pizza. It comes as a result of generations of tradition and they really got it right. Everything from acidity and sweetness in the tomatoes to fat content of the cheese, the temperature of the oven and the resulting smokiness and pliability of the crust are all considered. If you’re interested in learning more, a school is opening in North Beach by America’s premier Pizzaiolo, Tony Gemignani, called the International School of Pizza. I’m signing up for a class. I’m building a wood-fired oven in my backyard.

So, back to Gialina. The crust was the most troubling element. It was yeasty, dense and a little chewy. I’ve had this happen to me when I pick up a Trader Joe’s dough that was from an off-batch. So, perhaps tonight they were working with sub par goods? It just wasn’t right. Still, neither the sauce or the cheese worked (look at the photo). It seems that pizzerias are skimping more and more on the cheese. Bad move. Not too much, but NEVER too little.

Gialina Nettle Pizza

Then we tried the famed nettle creation. Same problem with the dough. The nettles were fine and tasty. The pancetta was nice. I didn’t really get the addition of mushroom and all-combined it was an acceptable pie. But best in the country? Not even close. Maybe best in Glen Park. Maybe best South of Piccino. But not even close to best in the city. Nate Appleman could dance circles around this pie. Craig Stoll makes better dough in his sleep (which may be also when he is awake because I don’t get much personality there – ouch).

I know I am a snob. But that’s what makes me a zealot. I have to have an opinion, and unfortunately today I’m not a fan of Gialina. No harm, no foul. Ok, I’m done. Rant over. Back to Mr. Nice Guy. Have a nice day.

Noodle Soup @ Grand Pu Bah

Posted on June 4, 2009 by ezealot

Say what you will about Grand Pu Bah (some feel it is overpriced, others don’t like the fusion elements), I [heart] their noodle soups. We are good friends with the owners and I have a special relationship with Thailand and Thai food. This may make loving GPB easier for me. Plus it is just two doors down from my showroom.

The trick? Order the tom yum noodle soup or chicken noodle and trick it out with your preferences. I like the chicken noodle and add Chinese broccoli (order medium spicy and season yourself). Then squeeze some lime juice in it. Oh my!

Tell the Pi’dam sent you and you’ll get special treatment!

Flour and Water (And Salt, And Tomatoes, And Fava Beans…)

Posted on June 1, 2009 by ezealot

I must preface this post with a disclaimer. I have relations with the proprietors of this restaurant. Albeit faint relations, but relations still. My good friend is an investor and as a result I have met, on numerous occasions, one of the owners. We have developed a mutual respect and he and I have long-awaited this review.

It all started many months ago when I met Mr. Owner, the young, hipster businessman who had lured my naive friend into sinking some ducats into his impending restaurant venture. I was skeptical. Said investor had limited interest in food and [gasp] didn’t eat pork. Though, said investor did join us on a two-week Italian food bonanza where he let down his piggy guard and savored the succulence of the swine. And said investor is on a relationship trajectory that requires he improve his food sensibilities.

Mr. Owner and I danced around each other at first. We are WAY to similar . There typically can only be one know-it-all, alpha male, obnoxious Hebrew in any situation. Me and he vied for the same spot and clashed on some salient points. Then we jumped in: “What’s your opinion on Delfina?”, “You don’t like Conduit?!”, “Who is making the best meatball?”. My first impression was that his restaurant was either going to be a wild disaster or a wild success. For us personally, we discovered that it wasn’t about the score, but the game that mattered. And we both like to play.

So, there it was. Months passed and decisions were made, most of which I admired and started thinking he might have a wild success. There was the chef decision – hiring a Quince alumni (brilliant move) and a pasta fanatic in Thomas McNaughton. I so respect this guy that I was anxious to see what he was going to cook up. Then they poached a Pizzaiolo, Jon Darsky, who is nuts for wood and heat. My kind of guy. And, they talk about the neighborhood and seasonality – all good in my book.

So, tonight was the night. Said investor and I sat down for the fated meal. He didn’t want to come because he was afraid of my opinions – isn’t that cute? I told him I would be on good behavior, at least during the meal. And frankly, we had so much conversation that I was able to eat and judge in my alternate-reality without giving away too many of my observations. Here it goes:

The restaurant is a nice size to be considered “neighborhoody”. The decor is modern and clean, maybe lacking a little personality, which it tries to make up for in the paintings and light fixtures. But generally it feels like a warm, cozy and comfortable place to eat. There is a perpetual buzz at the front door, which is a great sign, but could get annoying when reservation crowds start to pile up deep. I would strongly suggest that they get the permits for outdoor seating, slap up some powerful heat lamps, even if the kitchen can’t support the additional crowds. Give people a place to chill outside while they are waiting. It will make the place look hopping too, without feeling crammed.

The staff was friendly and somewhat unobtrusive. I fucked with said investor a little by playing my empty water glass test. I drink a lot of water and wanted to see if it would get noticed and filled. Sadly, it didn’t until we asked. The food was delivered in perfect symphony so this small issue wasn’t huge, but it is still something that should be covered. This obsession comes from my father, who would pull the same stunt everywhere we dined. It’s in the blood of the restaurant family.

We started with a little gem salad. I love me some little gems. Nature’s perfect little dwarf. The salad was a little saucy and could have used some big grains of salt (which we did see at dessert, so we know they are there). The combination of the lemon dressing and avocado wasn’t anything to write home about. I’ll have to try some of the other salads. Not bad, not great.

Pizza Margarita with Buffalo Mozzarella

We then had a pizza margarita with buffalo mozzarella. I can say confidently that Flour and Water has one of the best crusts in the bay area. Perfect salt, crispy to chewy ratio, smokiness – good stuff. The sauce was not bad, but could have been a little sweeter and a little saltier. Maybe this is my preference, but in Italy it always seems a little sweeter. I think Ideale in North Beach has nailed the flavor I seek. Still, I’d put their pizza a step above Delfina and Nostra, and perhaps a little below Pizzaiolo and Picco, but damn close and maybe an equal after I taste other varieties….they were kicking out some good looking stuff. I typically use the margarita as a base to judge, but this one might really shine as an arugula and prosciutto because the crust is that good.

Garaganelli with Fava and Arugula

Then things got interesting……we ordered two types of pasta. A housemade garganelli, with guanciale and arugala and a mezza-luna with a zucchini, lemony tomato sauce. True to his Quince roots and his intensive Italy sojourn, Mr. McNaughton knows pasta. Splendid textures, balanced flavors – every bite was a treat (and much less expensive than Quince). I commented to said investor: “I couldn’t make these at home”, which is probably the best compliment I offer restaurants. Well done.

We ended with a cornmeal cake and vanilla-thyme ice cream (made especially for them by Humphry Slocombe) and a chocolate budino with coffee-scented whipped cream and that sea salt I mentioned earlier. Both were simple, clean and excellent flavors. The salt on the budino was a standout, as was the vanilla-thyme ice cream.

So, while interpretation leads to some criticisms, my first visit to Flour & Water was a great start and I look forward to returning, not only to sample the remaining items on this menu but to check it out as seasonality dictates changes and updates. And, judging by the buzz and the crowds, I believe Mr. Owner will have himself that wild success.

The Pastoral Life: Folengandros

Posted on May 18, 2009 by ezealot

The heaviness of Santorini was lifted as soon as we reached the port. Our ferry was bound for Ios, Sikinos, Folengandros and Milos. We were planning to head to Milos and thought a couple day’s stop in Folengandros would be a nice transition. We heard that it has majestic cliffs and a charming small-village culture. It would be a welcome change to the angst of Santorini.

Judah Climbs to the Church, Folengandros, Greece

Folengandros has a population of about 650 during the summer and 350 the rest of the year. It is quite mountainous and the towering cliffs serve as a deterrent to most beach-seeking tourists. In fact, for many years the island was known as the Alcatraz of Greece, as exiles were sent here. Nowadays it seems to be home to a slow-moving group of Greeks who seek the simple life are unrepentant about it. And they’ve got a ton of Churches in which to repent.

Sheep Herding, Folengandros, Greece

We drove around the island yesterday and saw an abundance of grazing goat and sheep. Having just completed Omnivore’s Dilemma I’ve been wrestling with how we can find a balance in our lives by seeking a more sustainable food supply. Seeing these animals that will ultimately become my “Matsada”, a local dish I am excited to try this evening, I can’t help think that there was a time where it was easier to find that balance. And, in some places, it is still the only option. On this island of 350 full-time residents, these pastoral animals are their primary source of meat.

Meatballs and Fried Potatoes, Irene's, Folengandros, Greece

But, I’d like to get back to food. The lunch we just ate brought my attention full-circle. Not necessarily for the quality of the food or the uniqueness of the preparations, but rather because of the simplicity and honesty of it. The setting was a courtyard outside a makeshift kitchen, which clearly occupied the ground floor of the owner’s home. Irene, in fact, was the owner, as the name of her restaurant attests. Her husband joins her in the kitchen, where they sincerely seem to take pride in feeding others.

J&J at Irene's, Folengandros, Greece

We lunched on Greek Salad, meatballs and fried potatoes, zucchini cakes, and a toasted garlic bread. Everything was tasty, fresh and made with care. Any restaurant would be proud to offer such quality. Judah even left behind his phobias to try the meatballs and proclaimed them “yummy”. But what stole the show was the [free] cake that arrived at the end of the meal. It was a moist yellow cake with lemon and honey. Utter perfection. We all gobbled it up with abandon and applauded our hosts when they returned.

Lemon Honey Cake, Irene's, Folengandros, Greece

This meal marked a clear departure from the past four days and a return to some of the themes we started with in Greece. For one, we didn’t receive a single free treat in Santorini. Not that we expect it or require it, but it was certainly part of the charm of our first week in Greece. Moreover, it represents the local’s true desire to welcome their guests. And we do feel welcome. When I offered “bravo” (the Greeks have borrowed the word from the Italians) they were effusive with their thanks. For us, it is a great way to start the final week of our trip.

The Dish: Warm Country Feta

Posted on May 13, 2009 by ezealot

Ambrosia & Nectar

Had an exceptional dish tonight that I needed to share. Up the hill from our villa on Santorini is a little place called Ambrosia & Nectar. Giada DiLaurentis beat us there and did a feature on this dish. The benefit is that we have the recipe to recreate it at home.

The cheese is just warm enough, but not too hot. The crust is flakey and the sauce is sweet. With the right Feta, the balance of saltiness and sweet play very well together. Sesame seeds and figs add layers that also work well. This could be an appetizer or a dessert. Amazing.

More thoughts on Santorini soon. I have conflicting feelings about the state of tourism and environmentalism here, though really appreciate being here in low season. I can only imagine the throngs of cruise-boaters in July and August filling the streets of Oia trying to grab that magical photo of the caldera and buy that special little trinket. Moreover, I can’t imagine what happens to all of the plastic bottles generated since there is ZERO natural potable water on the island.

Click here for Giada’s recipe courtesy of Food Network.

Warm Country Feta, Ambrosia & Nectar, Santorini

The Water of Love

Posted on May 7, 2009 by ezealot

Today I was surprised. We were all surprised. It was one of those days where you stumble across something lovely and want to savor it, respect it, pay homage to it. I suppose writing this blog is the best I can do to honor our meal at To Nero Tis Agapis (The Water of Love) restaurant on the island of Spetses, Greece.

We planned to rent bikes and ride until it started to rain and then find somewhere for lunch. The rain held back and we made it a quarter of the way around the island and faced the decision: press on and take a chance of no more restaurants and possible rain, or turn back and eat. We decided to pack a lunch for a long ride tomorrow, since the weather forecast was more forgiving and find somewhere to eat lunch now.

I had a place stuck in my head that we had passed 10 or 15 minutes earlier. It was perched over the sea and had a white-linen elegance top to bottom, without feeling pretentious. It was totally empty.

I often judge a restaurant by the number of people inside. If it’s good, the locals will be eating there. But this was 2pm on a Tuesday in a shoulder season on an upscale tourist island. No matter, it was about to start raining and the place looked fine.

As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, I am really amazed by Greek hospitality. We have still yet to enjoy a meal without receiving something on the house. It must be a national ploy to justify higher costs by making visitors think they are getting something for free. Still, I love it! The people really take time to make you feel welcome, play with our son Judah and create an experience. Good for you, Greece.

Here we were welcomed, seated and treated to a warm basket of bread and an amous bouche of raw sardine in olive oil with parsley. The young waitress, originally from Athens, with perfect English, immediately offered suggestions. Have you tried this traditional dish or that type of fish? She had Julie and I hooked, as we love to get suggestions and let someone else do the ordering. This was our chance to let go and try some new things. We were in her hands.

Tarosalata, Fish Roe Dip, Spetses, Grecce

Taramosalata, Fish Roe Dip, Spetses, Grecce

She started us off with something so wonderful it was shocking how fast it went down. As you can see by the photo there was an ample sized plate of “Taramosalata”, a dip of fish roe, common to the region, but new to me. It was lightly fishy, but mostly creamy and fluffy and savory – oh my. We scooped and scooped with warm bread until I was dredging the plate for stragglers. Really, I was not expecting this and it started off this meal off very right.

Baked Cheese with Tomatoes

Next she brought us some baked cheese with tomatoes and herbs. Clean and simple, filled with flavor and a sweet crust on the cheese. This was followed by our first foray into octopus in Greece. We both have mixed feelings about this sea-critter, as it universally seems chewy, but is tasty enough and seemingly a darling to foodies. Here, they balanced the chewiness by drying and then grilling it until slightly crispy. The dish was elevated with some grilled local mushrooms, similar to chanterelles, and tiny pearl onions, all drizzled with a fine balsamic reduction.

Fresh Cod, Before

Fresh Cod, After

For our main course we were offered a choice of fresh fish, just off the boat. Interestingly, on the Greek Islands, most of the fish is frozen, which must be indicated on the menu, by law. Fresh fish is very seasonal and a mixed bag. Luckily, The Water of Love is devoted to seasonality and they keep up with local fishermen. Today we were offered cod and red mullet. We opted for the cod. It was prepared flash fried, whole. Upon piercing the skin, the flaky snow white flesh burst through. I drizzled mine with lemon, olive oil and pepper. Simple & simply perfect – perhaps the best piece of cod I’ve ever had.

Baklava

For dessert we were served bakhlavah, fillo pastry with chopped nuts and honey and halvas, a semolina cake. Both were subtly sweet though I prefer the flakiness and nuttiness of bakhlavah. Of course they were on-the-house!

Halvas

We spent a while chatting with our waitress, reveling in the fact that the seasonal crowds were still weeks away and we were their only guests. The rain subsided and we hopped back on our bikes filled with a bit of smugness in knowing that we just had an experience. Maybe it was a special occasion for the chef to step up, or maybe every meal at The Water of Love is this good. Regardless, unless you take the trip to Spetses and venture out of the main port to seek out this tiny enclave, you’ll just have to trust me.

First Meal in Athens, Greece [Complete with Jet Lag!]

Posted on May 4, 2009 by ezealot

Judah at the dinner table, Athens, Greece

Judah's Babysitter in Athens, Greece

We arrived in Greece this morning on the day of Julie’s 40th birthday. To give her some respite from the 15 hours of travel with our four year old, I got her a spa afternoon and took the rugrat for the day. We walked the neighborhood called Monastiraki, in the shadow of the Acropolis.

Judah snacked on fried potatoes and grilled bread with olive oil “melted butter” to get him to eat it. I’m always amazed at how fresh and flavorful fries are everywhere else but at home. Our potatoes are just a symptom of the industrial farming complex (can you tell I am finally reading Omnivoure’s Dilemma?). These are small and dense, with a natural burst of flavor that we try to replicate by soaking our fast food fries in sugar water.

A few local beers got me in stride. The streets were bustling with young Greeks. My first impression was ‘that this ain’t Italy’! The people are quite stout and hearty – I won’t be headturning much here. But I was so pleased to see how unbelievably friendly they are, particularly to children. Our waiters became instant nannies and Judah played with abandon. This is going to be fun.

After Julie returned from her spa, it was clear that jet lag was beating us all down. We decided to dine early, which in Greece means 8:30! We headed out to a recommended spot, Mamacas….

When done right, I love the whitewashed Greek minimalism. Mamacas felt warm and inviting and it had a hum, despite the early hour. A few splashes of color and smells of roasted meats added to the sensual invitation.

The thing about traveling with a four year old is that we only have so much to entertain him. Meals are tough. His tastes lean towards standard American child fare, no matter how much we offer, cajole or entice. The kid loves his pizza, mac-n-cheese and hot dogs. So, when confronted with a long meal of adult food, Judah is indulged with his iPod. I know, we’re awful parents! But thanks to Yo Gabba Gabba and Super Why, our kid is happy, we’re sane and he is actually learning to read.

We started with a “fava bean puree” that actually arrived yellow in color. First bite confirmed that it was chick peas instead. Scooped with a warm grilled flatbread and topped with fresh, sweet red onions, lemon and perfect olive oil, it was fresh and clean. A great start.

Next was a spicy grilled feta cheese, so distant from the salty mess we put on “Greek” salads, I was confounded. Apparantly there a many more varieties of Feta than I’ve known and I’m excited to dive in. This preparation was simple and rustic, and even Julie, who shies away from the unhealthy, gobbled it up.

But the dish that floored both of us and signaled that this was going to be a good trip was the spit fired lamb. Low on presentation but off the charts on flavor it tasted like it was butchered today and immediately put on the spit, roasted all day and just reached it’s readiness for our carniverous appetites. The meat was earthy and tender with a minimum of seasoning and a burst of sweetness from the fat and skin. I commented that I wish I were one of those people who enjoyed gnawing to the bone, as this was worth savoring. Maybe I’ll become one as I did a pretty good job on the shank.

True to the Greek spirit the friendly waiters brought us free drinks and dessert while fawning over Judah. He’;s going to be an asset here, although I am writing this in the middle of the night because he cannot sleep. Ever try to teach a kid how to fall back to sleep when he isn’t tired? Where’s the damn iPod?

A Proper Chicago Dog

Posted on April 30, 2009 by ezealot

I may not be a fan of their pizza, but Chi-town knows their hot dogs.
Where to get one proper in SF? Check out the cart in the corner of 7th and Folsom. Hours are sporadic, but the wares are authentic: Vienna beef, neon relish, pickle, celery salt, sport pepper, tomatoes…. I haven’t tried their Italian beef, which I only discovered on their menu today, but trust I will!

The Epicurean Zealot

An opinion-laden guide to San Francisco's culinary culture.

Category Archives: Meals & Reviews