Category Archives: Making Food

Making Food

Pillows of Love: [Ricotta] Gnocchi Thursday

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Thursdays in Rome were sacred to me. Thursday was gnocchi day. It seems that this varies from region to region, so not all Italians celebrate the tradition. But spend a year and Rome and I assure you Thursdays will become your gnocchi day too. What could be more perfect than a savory dumpling coated with a simple hint of flavor?

Gnocchi Thursday

Let’s start by getting the pronunciation right. It isn’t hard. “Gn” is sort of like a “ny” sound. Practice it: gn, ny, gn, ny, gn, ny (said like you are teasing someone). Occhi is pronounced “aoh-ki”. Always remember that “ch” in Italian is a “k” sound. Put it all together: ny-aoh-ki, gn-hockey, Gnocchi. Take that tidbit of wisdom and practice saying “bruschetta” at a few times. It ain’t “brushetta”!

Here comes the wiki, cause you know that’s how I roll:

The word gnocchi means “lumps”, and may derive from nocchio, a knot in the wood, or from nocca (knuckle). It has been a traditional Italian pasta type of probably Middle Eastern origin since Roman times. It was introduced by the Roman Legions during the enormous expansion of the empire into the countries of the European continent. In the past 2000 years each country developed its own specific type of small dumplings, with the ancient Gnocchi as their common ancestor. In Roman times, gnocchi were made from a semolina porridge-like dough mixed with eggs, and are still found in similar forms today, particularly in Sardinia (where they do not contain egg, however, and are known as malloreddus). One variety, gnocchi di pane (literally bread noodles), is made from bread crumbs and is popular in Friuli and Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol. Another variety from Trentino-Alto Adige/Sudtirol is spinach gnocchi, called strangolapreti. This translates to “choke the priest.” The use of potato is a relatively recent innovation, occurring after the introduction of the potato to Europe in the 16th century.

Ricotta Gnocchi

While I certainly love a good potato gnocchi, in my opinion nothing compares to the lighter, more pillowy ricotta variety. And you’ll be surprised at how easy they are to make. This recipe is interpreted from a blogger compadre at Delicious Days.

Prep time: ~15 minutes
Ingredients (for 2):
1 1/4 cup Ricotta
1 egg yolk (M-L)
1/4-1/2 tsp fine sea salt
2 tbsp Parmigiano (or Pecorino), freshly grated
1/4 cup all-purpose flour, extra for dusting the dough/board

Ricotta Gnocchi

Start by removing any excess liquid from the Ricotta by putting it in a fine-mesh strainer. In a large bowl add Ricotta cheese, egg yolk, salt and freshly grated Parmigiano. Mix well with a wooden spoon. Next gradually add the flour and stir in briefly, just until combined – the dough will still be quite sticky. (Of course you can add more flour at this point, but keep in mind, that the more flour you use, the denser the gnocchi become in the end. And you want them to be as light & fluffy as possible, with a velvet-like texture.)

Gnocchi on the Cutting Board

Forming these gnocchi is the slightly tricky step – this is the technique that works best for me: Generously flour a board, take a big tablespoon of the dough and scoop it onto the board. Dust the roll with flour (dust your hands generously, too!), before rolling it into a finger-thick log. Cut it into little pillows (stick the knife’s blade into the flour to prevent it from sticking to the dough). Give it a little pinch in the center for shape. I actually learned from my Italian housekeeper (see pervious Spaghetti post) that with potato gnocchi you use your thumb in a downward motion to spin out the shape. These ricotta buggers are too fragile though. Place each gnoccho on a floured board or parchment paper lined baking tray and lightly dust them again. Continue quickly with the next step, otherwise they will get soggy and stick to the paper/board.

Gnocchi Out of the Water

Meanwhile bring a large pot of water to a boil, add a generous dump of salt and reduce heat until the water bubbles lightly. Add the gnocchi and stir once, so they don’t stick to the bottom – then let cook until they start floating on top. Depending on their size this may take 2 to 4 minutes. Remove with a strainer or slotted spoon and serve immediately on a warmed platter. This dish works perfect as a family-style middle-course.

From my perspective, the toppings should be simple. Light and sweet tomato sauce works best (not the one I gave you earlier with the spaghetti). Try Marcella Hazan’s Tomato Sauce with Onion and Butter. I’ll give you the recipe tomorrow. Or a simple brown butter and sage works wonders. You might also try a light pesto, like arugula, wild nettle or red peppers.

I’m amazed at how many of you are trying these recipes and replying with your successes (not so many failures……yet). I envision a legion of little zealots bouncing around their kitchens, pumping music loudly (this is the only way to cook) and making their families very happy. This one is gonna rock them!

Red, White and Blue Potato Salad

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For my friend Gabriela, who wasn’t going to ask for the recipe because it seemed complicated, I offer this simple interpretation of the improvised potato salad we enjoyed this weekend. Thank you for your continual hosting panache at your spectacular Santa Cruz digs on the perfect beach with an outstanding cadre of cohorts.

Red White and Blue Potatoes

Red White and Blue Potatoes

Originally, I planned to do an Ahi Poke. Hawaii is part of the USA that probably doesn’t get much love from the mainland on this holiday. It seems to be all about the heartland, when it comes to the food of the fourth. Hot dogs, hamburgers, corn on the cob – you get the gist. But when I went to the store, I faced the conundrum over choosing seafood these days. The Ahi was “sustainably” farmed according to Whole Foods, but the fine print mentioned Fiji and the guy behind the counter said he thought it probably came from Indonesia. I couldn’t do it – too much traveling.

So, I wandered the aisles looking for some inspiration. There were going to be some heavy weight culinairesses in attendance. I couldn’t slack. Then it hit me. In the produce section, lined up in a row there were some local tiny white potatoes, red potatoes and glorious purple potatoes. Close enough to red, white and blue for my sensibility. Smaller is always better with potatoes, in my opinion. Some sweet corn, english peas, local spring onions and dill all were screaming to jump in my bag. For added measure I grabbed some of those TLC Ranch pastured eggs heralded by Rebecca T. in the comments of my previous egg post. Here’s how easy it was, Gaby:

Red White and Blue Potato Salad

Red White and Blue Potato Salad

In a large pot of salted water, boil the potatoes, shucked corn and eggs. I would add the red potatoes at least 10 minutes after the others. They are softer and will fall apart if they go as long as the white and purple (which mine did). Pull the corn out once the water boils and cut the kernels off. Pull the eggs out a few minutes after the pot boils. The objective is to get them soft-hard cooked. Cool them in ice water. After you de-pod your peas, put them in the strainer in the water for a moment to blanch them. Take all of the veggies / eggs and put them in the fridge to cool.

When the potatoes are just fork tender remove them from the boiling water and transfer them to ice water to cool them down quickly and stop the cooking. Slice your onions finely and put them in a large bowl. Add some dijon mustard, champagne vinegar (or comparable) and whisk in olive oil to emulsify.

When your potatoes are cool, dry them, slice them into bite-size pieces and add them to the dressing. Toss in the peas, corn and break up some dill. Gently toss the whole thing together to get everything coated well with the dressing and onions. Salt and pepper to taste and then slice the eggs on top.

I enjoy this simple type of potato salad. There is a little bite from the vinegar but no heaviness from mayo. The flavors of the fresh peas, corn and onions pop to compliment the richness of a good potato. And Rebecca was right, her TLC Ranch eggs were outstanding!! Click on the image to visit her website.

I hope all of your 4ths were as enjoyable as mine. Great time with the family and friends. We are truly fortunate.

Doing Caesar Right

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After my experience at Tony’s the other night I thought I would repost a recipe I wrote in July of 2006 for the first incarnation of the Zealot. Two years later it seems that chefs still can’t get it right. Even with the onslaught of little gems on the scene (which I love!) it’s hard to find a proper, old-school Ceasar salad. So, here it is…….

I love Caesar salads. I suppose because I grew up with perfection (Culmone’s in Atlantic City, NJ) I’ve always had a basis for comparison. Mr. Culmone was a man of few words. But when he came tableside with his cart and instruments, he was a maestro conducting a symphony of taste. Nothing seems to come close. The creamy, garlicky mess that most places serve are difficult to stomach. I always order two things when I see them on a menu: Caesar Salad and Macaroni & Cheese (I’ll give you a recipe for this soon), and I am often disappointed.

So this post is as much for Bay Area Restaurant Owners as it is for the laymen. Let’s step it up a bit! This is how Caesar Salad is made:

Serves 2

1 Egg Yolk
3-5 Anchovy Filets, Depending on size and preference
1 Fresh Garlic Clove – stale garlic will be bitter
1 Small to Medium Lemon
Teaspoon of Dijon Mustard
Dash or two of Worcestershire
Dash of Tobasco
Parmigiano Reggiano – freshly grated – don’t even think about anything else
Light flavored, not grassy, olive oil. Tuscan style works well. I use Bariani.
Fresh cracked black pepper
1 Medium sized head of Romaine (it’s an art to pick the right one – it does matter!)


Use a large wooden bowl – do not use metal, ceramic or plastic.

Rub the inside of the bowl with the garlic clove. Separate an egg yolk (preferably pastured). Take two forks and add the anchovies. Mash them between the tines of the forks until they are in tiny pieces. There are two ways you can approach the garlic. I like to rub the bowl before I start and then take the remains and chop it finely and add it to the sauce. It’s powerful stuff, so you must like garlic to do it this way. You could just rub the bowl and toss it. Add the Dijon, Worcestershire, tobasco and mix it all up with your two forks (you’ll have a paste by now). Add enough lemon juice to thin out the paste (sometimes I only use a half of a lemon, sometimes a whole – you’ll get a feel for this). Next, with both forks stirring, drizzle in the olive oil. The amount you use should be based upon taste. Add some until it is incorporated, taste, add more. If you are not using a quality, light flavored oil (think $15+), you can cut it a bit with canola oil. Add some black pepper and cheese to the dressing.

Wash and dry your lettuce. Make sure they are VERY dry. Nothing ruins the salad like watery lettuce. I like to cut my romaine into 1″ pieces. If you have nice tender stalks from a smaller head, use them whole. Little gems can go in as-is (and have become my roughage of choice). Toss them with the dressing. After you plate the salad, add more cheese on top and fresh pepper at the table.

Little Gems

Little Gems

If you make this, tell me how it turns out and compares to your favorites. Also, I have to give a nod to Zuni Cafe (1658 Market St) as they seem to be one of the few places that “get it”!

A Platter of Figs

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A good friend of mine calls David Tanis the only real genius he knows personally. Apparently Mr. Tanis operates on another plane of existence when it comes to the culinary arts. As my friend described “David could look at a stack of books and figure out how to realign it’s structure and turn it into something tasty”.

A Platter of Figs - Click to Purchase

A Platter of Figs - Click to Purchase

David’s cookbook, A Platter of Figs – And Other Recipes, may not stand up to “genius” masterworks in literature, but it is a damn good cookbook. You might not be surprised to learn that I enjoy reading cookbooks cover-to-cover. I don’t often follow recipes strictly, but I relish the idea of the influence gained from studying recipes and applying the theories to my existing skill-set. For that reason alone, Platter is worth owning. More traditional cookbook users, who follow recipes, won’t be disappointed either.

I was really struck by the forward by Alice Waters and the introduction by Mr. Tanis. She provides a glowing and humorous introduction to how he became her chosen-one to run the prestigious kitchen at Chez Panisse many years ago. He speaks of his proclivity towards home cooking and speaks frankly about the impersonal nature of restaurant dining. I found it refreshing from someone who makes a living cooking in a restaurant. I have also come to prefer the intimate dinner party with an appreciative group of friends, spending a day immersed in food from market to table, versus the quick fix and mixed bag of dining out.

This weekend I dove into Platter of Figs by recreating one of his summer menus (pictures below). While his structure was there for guidance, it was wonderful to make interpretations at the market that would result in personalizing the ultimate results. I think my guests would agree it was one of the tastiest meals we’ve served in a while. With that, I give a hearty Zealot recommendation for “A Platter of Figs”.

The menu:

- Acme ciabatta crostini with bellweather farms sheep’ ricotta, the-sweetest-cherry-tomatoes-ever, basil chiffonade.

- Braised dirty girl romano beans with lemon, garlic and chili.

- Long-grilled fennel.

- Radicchio hearts wrapped in pancetta with balsamic.

- Porchetta-style grilled pork loin, rubbed in fennel fronds, rosemary and insanely fresh garlic.

- Macedonia of blueberries and apricots with grappa.

- Brown turkey figs!

Caccio e Pepe

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When I read books I tend to read every title by a particular author in sequence. Perhaps this is an OCD condition or perhaps there is virtue in fully absorbing the life’s work of a talented scribe. Whatever the case, it feels very rewarding to have a theme to guide me. In food, it is not much different. For many years I was a pasta whore (and continue to be an enthusiast). I sought out every possible recipe and ate pasta night after night. Thank goodness for my metabolism and genes. I couldn’t pull that off today!

Spaghetti

Spaghetti

There may be no other venue that inspires chefs as much as pasta. The myriad of variations and interpretations is staggering. One could easily make a life’s mission out of studying pasta in all of its forms. That person would likely be obese. Yet, for all of the variations and interpretations, it is often the simplest creations that elicit my awe. I’ve given you my perfect spaghetti with tomato sauce which uses subtle techniques but is ultimately incredibly simple . I’m gonna drop some super easy ricotta gnocchi on you before the summer is up. But today we’re going really lo-fi: Roman-style Caccio e Pepe.

One of my favorite non sequitors of all time came from the documentary “When We Were Kings”, which chronicled the ‘Rumble in the Jungle’ fight between Muhammad Ali and George Foreman. George Plimpton was musing about Ali’s genius as a poet and said:

Here he was delivering a lecture, senior class day with these 1,000, 2,000 Harvard graduates, and…he had these little cards in front of him. He gave this wonderful speech about he hadn’t had the opportunity but they had and they should use that to make the world a better place. It was moving and funny, and a great roar of appreciation at the end. Then someone shouted out, “Give us a poem!” And everybody quieted down. Now, the shortest poem according to Bartlett’s Quotations is called ”On the Antiquity of Microbes” and the poem is “Adam had ‘em.” Pretty short. But Muhammad Ali’s poem was ”Me, whee.” Two words. I wrote Bartlett’s Quotations and I said, “Look, that’s shorter.” It stands for something more than the poem itself. ”Me, whee.” What a fighter he was. And what a man.

Ali and Plimpton

Ali and Plimpton

What I love about this tidbit is how much punch comes from such a small package. It says so much about Ali, his character and his fierce intellect. To me, Caccio e Pepe pays homage to the “Me, whee” mentality. In it’s simplest form, it says look, I am pasta, but what a pasta I am!

I may be painfully repetitive, but I must restate for my new readers that my recipes are concepts versus strict directions. As you get familiar with the ingredients and objectives, you may find there are better paths to the results. Luckily, this is as easy as it gets.

Boil some spaghetti, spaghettini or bucatini (with a hole in the middle to absorb sauce) in a large pot of heavily salted water. Don’t be shy, salt in water = flavor in pasta. Cook until just shy of al dente. This means don’t be afraid of a little bite or crunch. It’s hard to express what al dente means to a neophyte, but there really is no other way to enjoy pasta. The crunch provides a textural contrast to the sauce. It’s just proper. Don’t dump your water, as we’ll need a little.

When the pasta is ready, transfer it to a saute pan with a little butter and / or olive oil. Here is a point of interpretation. I like the blend of both. You can have all of either / or depending on your preference. Just use quality product in either case. Fruity olive oil or a European-style butter will make a great difference.

Next, add a little of the pasta water, a small ladle or so. If you want a more creamy dish, you could substitute milk or cream here. I prefer the water, as the nature gluten in the pasta shines through and blends well with the fats. Add about half of the planned fresh cracked pepper and a little cheese. Here is another point of preference. Pecorino Romano is the tradition in Rome, but might be a little sharp for some. You could easily substitute Parmigiano Reggiano or create a mix of both. The objective is to get some nuttiness and creaminess, that plays right against the spicy pepper.

Caccio e Pepe

Caccio e Pepe

Take a warm dish and swirl a pile of the spaghetti nice and high. Grate a nice pile of cheese on top and then top that with a good shot of more cracked pepper. That’s it! As you can see it’s really all about the cheese, the pepper and the pasta. If done properly, you’ll get a balance of flavors that all play well together but each brings a distinct present to the party. Nutty, spicy, creamy, bitey, rich, yet light – it’s an everyman dish. Simple, yet complex. Me, whee!

Just for shits and grins, I’m gonna send you off with my favorite Ali poem:

I done wrassled with an aligator, tussled with a whale,
handcuffed lightening, thrown thunder in jail,
Just last week I  murdered a rock, injured a stone, hospitalized a brick.
I’m so mean I make medicine sick.

Pastured Eggs: Why Are They So Damn Good?

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I’m here to help you live a better life. No, really, I am! As I’ve described in previous posts, I am a true hedonist and I love to indulge in the pleasures of this wonderful life. I travel all over the world and relishing in the experience of a new culture and the amazing people that populate this planet. I love the arts – theater, music, cinema and will often be caught sitting in my parked car singing at the top of my lungs pounding my dashboard to The Raconteurs, Radiohead or the like. I’ll spend days planning a meal and enter a zen-like state while prepping and cooking. There is nothing that gives me more pleasure.

So, to help you get your hedonism on, I am going to share one of my greatest pleasures. It requires a subtle shift in thinking and a sensibility to appreciate something so simple, so perfect. We’re gonna have some pastured eggs. Now some of you are saying “been there, done that, I get’cha”. I’ll ask you to comment and share your praise and perhaps take a stroll down memory lane to the first time you remember experiencing the revelation. For those who are new to the concept, first a little explanation, courtesy of localharvest.org:

Pasture Raised Chickens

Pasture Raised Chickens

Grass-fed/pastured hens are raised on pasture, as opposed to being kept in confinement and fed primarily grains. Eggs from pastured hens contain up to 20 times more healthy omega-3 fatty acids than those their less fortunate cousins, factory hens.

Pastured hens’ diets are naturally complemented with bugs, earthworms, and other such critters that give their eggs a huge nutritious oomph. Although not necessarilly organic, pastured hens are usually much healthier and happier than their space-restricted and antibiotic-pumped industrial cousins.

Pasturing is the traditional method of raising egg-laying hens and other poultry. It is ecologically sustainable, humane, and produces the tastiest, most nutritious eggs. Pastured eggs also have 10 percent less fat, 40 percent more vitamin A, and 34 percent less cholesterol than eggs obtained from factory farms.

Pastured Eggs

Pastured Eggs

What this means to the egg itself comes twofold: (1) the yolks are nearly orange! Not only does this mean they taste amazing, but they are actually healthier. Research shows that an orange-colored yolk is higher in disease-fighting carotenes. (2) the albumen has more heft. The white will literally stand up in the pan rather than spill out all over the place. Again, it makes for better tasting and more nutritious eggs.

So, here’s the your homework. Everyone should do this. Buy a dozen pastured eggs. This doesn’t mean “cage free” or “free range” or “organic”. These are terms used by the farming industry to fool us into thinking chickens are treated nicely or fed proper diets. Often times there is just a strip of grass outside the coop that the hens will never see. Bullshit! Go to a farmer’s market and ask a farmer for some eggs. Look him in the eye and say “are these going to be the best eggs I’ve ever had?”. If he doesn’t say yes, don’t buy them. Every farmer I’ve ever met thinks he has the best eggs.

Sunny Side Up

Sunny Side Up

For this exercise, I’m not concerned about how you prefer your eggs – trust me.  For the first batch make some fried, sunny side up eggs. Take a nice piece of toast and sop up the yolk. Don’t be afraid if it’s farm fresh. Runny is ok. On the next day, scramble them with a little milk. Keep scrambling in the pan until they start to set. Then use your spatula. With the remaining eggs (you should have 4 left if you cooked for your sig-o) make deviled eggs. I’ll post a recipe another time. Try out your favorite here.

If you’re not convinced after this exercise, we might have to break up and no longer be blogger, bloggee. The pastured egg is simply a gift. One worth treasuring. One worth savoring. I’d like to think there are hoards of little zealots out there, hovering over their counter tops, gently handling their eggs, anticipating the first bite, frying, scrambling, boiling.

Hanger Steak: You Need to Know

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There is no question that the hanger steak is my favorite cut of meat. I discovered it a number of years ago and have kept it in my back pocket to wow dinner party guests. The texture and flavor of the hanger is unlike any other cut of meat. It is just as flavorful as a ribeye but significantly less expensive. It’s not commonly available in a lot of markets, so you’ll need to track down your own source (I’m not giving mine up, cause I don’t want to be fighting to get my meat). Check out the wiki on hanger for a solid description:

Hanger Steak

Hanger Steak

A hanger steak is a cut of beef steak which is said to “hang” from the diaphragm of the steer. (Anatomically the diaphragm is one muscle, but it is commonly cut into two separate cuts of meat: the “hanger steak” traditionally considered more flavorful due to its proximity to the kidneys, and the outer skirt steak which is composed of tougher muscle within the diaphragm.) The hanger is attached to the last rib and the spine near the kidneys. It resembles flank steak, and is a vaguely V-shaped pair of muscles with a long, inedible membrane down the middle. The hanger steak is not particularly tender, but has a lot of flavor, and is best marinated and cooked quickly over high heat (grilled or broiled) and served rare or medium-rare, to avoid toughness. Chefs with experience preparing beef kidneys report that the hanger steak’s aroma preserves a trace of kidney.

There is only one hanger steak per animal, and the entire cut typically weighs about 1 to 1.5 lbs (450 to 675g). It is prized for its flavor, and was sometimes known as “butcher’s steak” because butchers would often keep it for themselves rather than offer it for sale.

Grilled Hanger Steak

Grilled Hanger Steak

There area a million marinades that would work for a hanger. It really grabs flavor. If you don’t have time, a dry rub will also work well – I love my lavender salt or just a mix of garlic, onion, salt and pepper would work. Fresh herbs make a great rub as well. I’ll often take a bunch of rosemary, thyme, some garlic and onions and wrap the meat up overnight. Get your grill really hot (charcoal is ALWAYS preferred) and turn four times, about 3-4 minutes each time to get char on the whole steak. Use your thumb to check doneness – it should be about as dense as the palm of your hand, underneath your pinky. The crust should be glistening.

To avoid dryness, the trick is to take the meat off the grill and wrap it in foil tightly for 10 minutes to rest. Then slice it with the grain widthwise into medallions (don’t cut it on the diagonal like flank steak or it will be tough). Drizzle some olive oil or butter on the meat and pour the juices that accumulated in the foil. Sprinkle some granular salt and hit it with a shot of pepper.

Hangers do very well at parties, family style. Serve up a few with some cherry tomatoes and watch people ignore their utensils – finger food at its best. Don’t forget to invite me.

The Perfect Spaghetti Recipe

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Alright bitches. Time to earn my keep. If there is one recipe I can convey to provide you pleasure, this is it.

First, a little backstory. When I was living in Rome in 1990 I had an apartment near Piazzale degli Eroi. During our afternoon break I would walk home from school, stopping at the outdoor market on Via Andrea Doria to pick up fixings. It was here where I received my first introduction to the farm-to-table lifestyle. Despite being in a massive city, the goods were artisanal, fresh and downright enviable. Maybe I am romantic, but my memory of the goods was epic – pasta, produce, meats, cheeses – I can still smell the place now.

Andrea Doria Market, Rome

Andrea Doria Market, Rome

The apartment complex had maid service. On occasion a grandmotherly maid would be cleaning when I returned with my market goodies and prepared my lunch (get your head of the gutter people, this isn’t going to end that way).  One day I was making a tomato sauce in my usual fashion. Frankly, I was quite inconsistent back then. It was always too sweet or too garlicky, too bitter or too acidic. I didn’t have control. The maid had clearly been frustrated by how I tortured those poor tomatoes because she stepped in. She showed me that I needn’t chop any onions or garlic in the sauce. Rather, sauté them whole in olive oil to impart flavor and then take them out. She showed me how to finish the pasta in the sauce to absorb more flavor.

The next day she brought me a proper can of San Marzano tomatoes. She said she was impressed that I was cooking, as her son was lazy (and clearly still lived with her). Now, I’m not gonna get all “Tuesdays with Morrie” on you here. She did show me some other tricks during that time, and I felt a kinship with her, but the situation was far from any romantic notion of good storytelling. Basically she found me a curious oddity and shared some common sense that everyone in Italy is probably taught in preschool. And what I took home was a damn good start to my spaghetti.

This is NOT My Maid

The next stage of this recipe came courtesy of Craig Stoll at Delfina. Despite the fact that I was eating there from Day 1 (literally, i was there on the first public day) Craig wouldn’t know me from Adam, aside from an occasional nod. But I really loved his spaghetti. Clean, simple, true flavors. Imagine my surprise when I was handed a card at the farmer’s market with his recipe. I’ve always been impressed at how freely he shares them (the brandade is another of my favorites). What I discovered is that Craig was following most of the principles that my maid friend had taught me. I tried his, I tried mine, I compared details and ultimately came to a happy medium.

So here it is. I first wrote this down as part of a wedding present for my cousin and included all of the ingredients and some cooking equipment to make it. As with all of my recipes, it’s about touch and feel and concepts. You’ll have to play around with quantities and do a lot of tasting.

San Marzano Roma Tomatoes

San Marzano Roma Tomatoes

First and foremost, you must use high-quality San Marzano Roma tomatoes, imported from Italy. Look for “D.O.P” on the lable. This means that they are certified. These are going to cost between $4-6 per can. Don’t be fooled by any other brand. Sure they MIGHT be similar, but why take a chance? I know this flies in the face of the locavore ideal, but there are exceptions to every rule. Italian tomatoes are just better.

In a deep-sided saucepan heat a substantial amount of EV olive oil. Not too hot. Add whole, smashed garlic (or two halves of a small onion, both will work and provide slightly different results). If you want heat and a little smokiness, you can also add some whole chilies. Cook low and slow, covered. Do not brown. You’re trying to get the flavor into the oil. This takes some time. At least 20 minutes, possibly longer.

Cooking Garlic and Chilies

Cooking Garlic and Chilies

In the case of garlic, you can remove it now. With the onion and the chilies, I’ll often leave them in the pan with the sauce until it’s ready to serve. Now add your tomatoes right into the oil. There are two ways I approach this. The maid taught me to pour them through my hand, grinding them up before adding them to the sauce. Craig uses a food mill after the tomatoes are cooked. I actually prefer Craig’s method here. The texture is a little smoother, which I like. Let the sauce cook until the oil is incorporated. Depending on how much time you’ve left yourself, you can get away with anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. The longer the better.

Next you’ll want to remove any remaining items (onions or chilies) and salt to taste. You can also add basil here if you’re into it. I personally don’t like the shock of basil in a bite of pasta, so I’ll chiffonade it to distribute it more evenly, if I use it at all. If you’ve used the right tomatoes, the sauce should be flavorful enough to inspire gobbling. There really isn’t much to it, is there? But you’re not done yet. Cook your pasta in a big honking pot of water SALTED WELL. Don’t skimp on the salt in your pasta water, it imparts flavor. Cook the spaghetti until it is just starts to limp, but has a deep chew or crunch when you bite it. Not al-dente here, more like half done.

Rustichella Pasta

Rustichella Pasta

A note about spaghetti. For this dish, you’ll want to use dry. Fresh pasta will absorb too much sauce and go limp. You also need the bite of al-dente pasta to nail the texture. Start with a De Cecco quality spaghetti and work your way up from there. Don’t go with the generic supermarket brands. A quality pasta is worth the extra expense. I love Rustichella D’Abruzzo. There are also a lot of artisanal, designer brands out there. Live a little and try them.

Take another sauté pan and add some of your tomato sauce on medium high heat. Using tongs, remove the spaghetti from the water, directly into the pan. Don’t be afraid of getting water in the pan – you’ll want some. Add enough sauce and water to just cover your spaghetti (I use about 2/3 sauce to 1/3 water). Continue cooking until the sauce reduces down and the pasta is perfectly al-dente. Transfer the spaghetti to a warm plate and serve with parmigiano reggiano cheese (don’t you dare put anything but the finest aged parmigiano on this pasta or stop reading my blog now, you hear me?).

The End Result, Perfect Spaghetti

The End Result, Perfect Spaghetti

I’m expecting this post to garner me some traffic on this blog. Go ahead and share it. Comment if you try the recipe. I can assure you that you’ll love this sauce.

Greece Revisited

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Hosted a dinner party on Saturday night. The objective was to recreate some of the flavors of our Greece trip. While everyone was effusive with their compliments, I’d give the performance mixed reviews. Here was the menu:

Babaganouj
Tzatziki
Greek Salad
Grilled, Herb-Rubbed Leg of Lamb
Grilled Fennel
Grilled Yellow Potatoes
Petite Strawberries with Yogurt and Honey

I made the baba a few days in advance with an eggplant from our planet organics box. Real simple, tahini, lemon, garlic, parsely. Tzatziki is also pretty simple. Peel and seed a cucumber, puree with lemon juice, clove of garlic and some dill. Mix with 1.5 cups of greek yogurt. Both served with an Acme sweet batard, nice and warm.

Greek Salad

Greek Salad

For the salad, you can refer to the previous post where I spell out rules. Two farmers market visits scored me some vine tomatoes, sweet red onion, green peppers and cucumbers. I assembled the salad in two layers since I was feeding nine. I piled fresh dill in between the layers and put some slabs of feta on top. A simple splash of olive oil and citrus vinegar was all that was necessary to coax the best from the veggies.

Fennel Before Grilling

Fennel Before Grilling

Everything was going smoothly. For the mains, I purchased five pounds of a pastured, grass-fed leg of lamb. I figured I’d try out Avedano’s, an oft-mentioned butcher in Bernal (on Cortland). I rubbed the sucker in rosemary, thyme and shopped garlic and let it sit for four hours. I prepped the fennel by trimming and quartering the bulbs and tossing them in olive oil, salt and pepper. For the potatoes, which were small and lovely, I par-boiled them until al-dente, halved them and tossed them in olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper.

Potatoes Before Grilling

Potatoes Before Grilling

Once the grill was hot I put the fennel on and got some lovely char going. From previous experiences I learned that fennel needs to be cooked through and takes a long time. Crunchy fennel doesn’t work. Once browned I moved them to the edges of the grill, away from the direct heat. I then did the same for the lamb, getting some char on and then moving the legs away from the direct coals (which I only put on half of my Weber).

Leg of Lamb, Marinating

Leg of Lamb, Marinating

I cooked the lamb to 135 degrees, medium rare. Pulled it off, let it rest. Off come the fennel, tossed in the remaining oil, salted and served. Put the potatoes on the direct heat to crisp up for a few minutes while I sliced the lamb. I found the meat to have a confusing maze of fat and tissue. There was plenty of meat, but I think the next time I would trim up the sections better to eliminate the unnecessary stuff. Pulled the potatoes off, cut them into quarters and tossed them back in the rosemary oil.

The fennel was sublime. Really. Best dish of the night. I can’t imagine a better preparation. The potatoes were good, but were made even better as my friend David and I dredged them into the oil. The trick is to make sure these guys are well coated. Everyone complimented the meat, but I wasn’t sold. I found it to lack lambiness. I hope this isn’t a symptom of the grass-fed. Perhaps it was the cut or the preparation – I’ll own it if it’s me. The only way to tell is to give it another shot. It’s a long summer.

Julie flexed her culinary muscle by taking over the strawberry dessert. I didn’t leave much yogurt so she dished out a dollop over some sweet, petite farmer’s market strawberries and a little dash of honey. Really, a perfect ending to the meal. Simple, sweet and small.

Meatballs

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I can’t get a break! I’ve been traveling for three weeks and for the most part everyone has commented that they enjoyed keeping up with my posts. But today one reader complained that there were not enough recipes on the site. Sheesh. Let me warn you though, this is real food here. Not some make-your-own-granola-bar stuff. We’re talking meatballs.

 

Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

 

As you may have guessed, I have an opinion about this. But first, let’s consult wikipedia for some clarification “In Italy, meatballs are known as polpette and are generally eaten as a main course or in a soup [not with pasta]. The main ingredients of an Italian meatball are: beef and or pork and sometimes turkey, salt, black pepper, garlic powder, olive oil, romano cheese, eggs, bread crumbs and parsley, mixed and rolled by hand to a golf ball size. In the Abruzzo Region of Italy, especially in the Province of Teramo the meatballs are typically the size of marbles and are called polpettine.” 

I’ve made a lot of meatballs in my life. I credit my mother for my passion. She makes damn good meatballs. As with most of my recipes, it’s mostly about concepts, with infinite variations available. Creativity rewards intrepid cooks.

Let’s start with the meat. My favorite combination is 1/2 ground beef, 1/4 ground pork, 1/4 ground veal. I’ve done all-veal, 1/2 pork, 1/2 veal, all beef. Play around and see what works for you. Yesterday I grabbed a chuck roast of 100% grass-fed beef and ground it up myself (I love grinding meat – not only does it produce a better texture, but it just feels more in touch with the food source). Mix your meat together well and now you have your base.

Next comes onions, shallots or leeks. A good yellow onion will do fine. Get it soft in olive oil and let it cool down. Adding hot onions starts to cook the meat and gives you dense spots in the meatballs. Yesterday I melted some leeks and accidentally charred them a bit (jet lag complicates cooking) but the result was welcomed.

 

Raw Meatballs

Raw Meatballs

 

Dairy and bread are two optional, yet welcomed additions. Lately I’ve been adding a creamy ricotta. The result is a fluffier ball with a rich flavor. I also take a brioche or Italian batard and throw it in the food processor. I prefer fresh bread crumbs to dry or stale for meatballs. If you are not using ricotta, I’d soak the breadcrumbs in milk. I also add an ample handful of cheese at this point. Typically romano or parmigiano – experimentation is welcomed here. Add one egg per pound of meat.

Seasoning comes next. Dried herbs tend to work better than fresh, except in the case of parsley. I often will just add salt, pepper and some chili flakes. Oregano is cool. Thyme works. If you want to get tricky, try fried sage and porcini mushrooms [chopped finely] or fried basil and roasted peppers. I like to fry fresh herbs, it gives them better crumble and doesn’t kick you in the teeth with too much flavor. Add salt and pepper.

It is very important to mix your meatballs by hand. This is where the love is imparted. If you don’t get meat on your hands, you’re not making meatballs. Fry one and taste it. Adjust for seasoning and texture.

 

Cooking Meatballs

Cooking Meatballs

 

There are a few ways to cook meatballs. I like a little crust on the outside, but soft in the middle. To get this, you fry on a low flame in olive and then finish in a pot of sauce before they are fully cooked through. If you are not using tomato sauce, take some beef stock (good stuff, not the crap in the box) and poach the meatballs in a sheet tray in the oven. Don’t feel like you have to use tomato sauce. One of my favorite variations is to serve meatball in the stock with a dollop of ricotta cheese and a warm crusty loaf of bread. Or put them on a bed of baby arugula tossed in olive oil, salt and pepper. Yum.

While we’re on the subject, if you’re looking for a good meatball around San Francisco, I’d suggest trying A16, Delfina and Piccino! Or, try to swing an invite from the zealot!

The Dish: Warm Country Feta

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Ambrosia & Nectar

Ambrosia & Nectar

Had an exceptional dish tonight that I needed to share. Up the hill from our villa on Santorini is a little place called Ambrosia & Nectar. Giada DiLaurentis beat us there and did a feature on this dish. The benefit is that we have the recipe to recreate it at home.

The cheese is just warm enough, but not too hot. The crust is flakey and the sauce is sweet. With the right Feta, the balance of saltiness and sweet play very well together. Sesame seeds and figs add layers that also work well. This could be an appetizer or a dessert. Amazing.

More thoughts on Santorini soon. I have conflicting feelings about the state of tourism and environmentalism here, though really appreciate being here in low season. I can only imagine the throngs of cruise-boaters in July and August filling the streets of Oia trying to grab that magical photo of the caldera and buy that special little trinket. Moreover, I can’t imagine what happens to all of the plastic bottles generated since there is ZERO natural potable water on the island.

Click here for Giada’s recipe courtesy of Food Network.

Warm Country Feta, Ambrosia & Nectar, Santorini

Warm Country Feta, Ambrosia & Nectar, Santorini

Respect To the Greek Salad

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It’s a common occurrence to find a food made in its homeland significantly more appealing than the neutered counterpart we are served stateside. Pizza comes to mind. All Thai food falls into this realm. Who among us has had a proper fish taco outside of Baja? Well, to my surprise, the Greek Salad is also one of these dishes and I’m amazed that there is actually something more to this dish.

On any menu the LAST, I mean LAST salad I would ever order was the Greek salad. Frankly, I never knew who did. Why was it there? Who was it for? In the US the standard recipe seems to be iceberg lettuce paired with sliced olives, tomato wedges, chopped cucumbers, crumbled feta, onions and sport peppers crowned with a vinaigrette. What’s interesting is that it is not terribly different from the proper version, but subtle differences mean a lot here.

In Greece, the “Greek” salad uses tomatoes as the base. In fact, I’d like to say that the Greek Salad is a tomato salad, first and foremost. Everything else is there to compliment the tomato. They also cut their wedges in half, to make them bite sized without comprising the burst. There is no, or very little, lettuce in a Greek salad. It is very American to require roughage in our salads. Take it away and you have a much more focused offering. Feta comes in a block, topped with some finé herbs, which makes more sense, as you can add as you need. A nice hunk goes well with a tomato bite, rather than a smattering of crumbles randomly accumulated. The olive is one of those things that doesn’t translate well at home. Here they are buttery and light and add a compliment as opposed to a bitter contrast. We’ve mostly seen a variety with wrinkled black skins that are amazing. Include them whole, with the pit.

An important element in the mix is the red onion. Clearly they are using a small, fresh variety here because I am gobbling them up raw and with abandon. At home I often avoid the massive, thick sliced, musky rings pawned in salads. When I shop for onions I always seek farmer’s market treats – small, shiny skin, picked within a few days. You can’t beat the flavor. For this salad, a nice sliver size works best. 

I’ve yet to see a sport pepper here, but have universally seen green bell peppers. Now I’m no big fan of the green pepper. I prefer yellow and red for their sweetness and rarely find a use for green. But here it works perfectly. A crispy bite texturally and in flavor, it just makes sense. The dressing tends to be a very light olive oil and lemon or vinegar. Not much needed.

I’m clearly interpreting what I see and giving props to the Greeks for surprising me with simple, clean and sometimes elegant food. In fact, today, we had the best meal so far and one that could hold its own with many in my travels. But that’s the next post. For now, go try to make a proper greek salad and give it some respect.

Ricotta Pancakes, Because It’s Sunday

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I’ve been wanting to try out some pancake recipes. Admittedly, I’m lazy when it comes to pancakes. I really like the Krusteaz mix I buy in massive bags at Costco. They’re fast, easy and delicious. It’s also great for waffles (just add oil) With a 4-year old kid, I’m all about convenience.

But, my foodie sensibilities bring about guilt anytime I take the easy way out. And making pancakes from scratch isn’t that difficult. Plus, you can mess around with subtle taste elements like buttermilk, ricotta, extracts, zests, etc. So today I made some ricotta discs of love.

Just look at the picture. You really want some, don’t you? Well go ahead and make them. Here is a recipe, adapted from Neal Fraser over at Food and Wine. Enjoy!!

INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
3 large eggs, separated
1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons milk
6 ounces ricotta cheese (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons)
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
Unsalted butter, for the griddle
Pure maple syrup, for serving

DIRECTIONS
In a small bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the milk, ricotta, sugar and vanilla. Combine the wet and dry ingredients and whisk until the batter is smooth.

Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites at medium speed until frothy. Beat at high speed until soft peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the batter until no streaks remain.

Preheat the oven to 225°. Heat a griddle, then lightly butter it. For each pancake, ladle a scant 1/4 cup of the batter onto the griddle. Cook over moderately low heat until the bottoms are golden and the pancakes are just beginning to set, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook until golden on the bottom and cooked through, about 1 minute longer. Transfer the pancakes to plates and keep them warm in the oven while you make the rest. Serve the pancakes with maple syrup.

The Best Burger

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Tonight we had an impromptu gathering of the preschool-pick-up-patrol. I was itching for alcohol and suggested a kid-friendly watering hole (Axis Cafe or Bakar Fitness Center’s Cafe are fine spots). But the children had a different agenda. Within the span of their 15 minute playground time, a host of breakdowns and fights ensued. These kids weren’t up for public exposure. So, we hit whole foods and grabbed a movable feast that landed in my backyard.

It was finally time to introduce our friends, the Fletchers, to the perfect way to prepare a burger. I’ve spent years sampling burgers, trying recipes and techniques. Condiments, herbs, spices, onions, eggs – everybody has an opinion. Most wind up like meatloaf. For me, as with many foods, I find the secret to perfection is the most basic and essential approach. When you deconstruct a hamburger and add up the elemental components, you can focus on coaxing the individual flavors to their finest.

With that said, here is my approach.

The meat. I like chuck. Chuck is good. I’ve tried sirloin, tenderloin, rib eye and other various cuts of inappropriate burger meat. But a nice fatty slab of chuck roast is a good start. That’s right. I said slab. Because we’re gonna grind. Fresh. Now. The biggest secret to making a perfect burger is that the meat needs to be ground within a couple of hours of grilling. I grind twice on my kitchen aid. The less handling the better. I don’t trust the market to grind for me. Do it yourself.


Seasoning and shaping. The only seasoning necessary is salt and pepper. Liberally. Mixed it up lightly and spread the fat around. Form your patties nice and thick. The hot grill will cook them fast and if you want a medium rare burger, it needs to be pretty thick. Minimize handling.

Grilling. Charcoal. Hot. Take your gas grill and use it for zucchini kebabs or something. Break out the Weber and use natural charcoal heated in a chimney – no briquettes. Start by taking some red onion slices (about 1/4″) tossed in olive oil and grill until nice marks are formed and they start to soften. This will prime your grill for the burgers. Cook over direct heat and turn once. Do not over handle. Press with your finger to determine doneness. They should feel firm on the outside but soft in the center.


Bun. I like brioche. Sponge bread is good. Kaiser rolls will do. Whatever it is, toast it on the grill. Don’t be shy. Get a little dirty. Butter them if you’ve got balls.

Accouterments. These burgers are so good, they can be appreciated with nothing. I like the grilled red onions (see above). A fried egg. Blue cheese. Stinky cheese. Gruyere. Ketchup. Mustard. Pickles. Arugula. Radicchio. Horseradish sauce. I think if you use the burger as a base your creative talents will come through in your toppings. Don’t over do it.

Tonight we had a radicchio salad with 5 year-old balsamic, shallot and parmigiano. David found some obscure beers and we picked over the kid’s leftover Whole Foods frozen onion rings (yes they are really good). For dessert we warmed some walnut brownies and cut them up with fresh strawberries and whipped cream.

It may be April, but it sure feels like summer is here.

Passover with the Gentiles [In Defense of Gefilte Fish]

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How can you explain the wonders of chopped liver, gefilte fish and charoset to newcomers? For Jews, we’ve spent a lifetime in the presence of such culinary treats. We’ve acquired the acquired-tastes. Sure, matzoh ball soup and brisket are easy. They cross into the familiar. They are inherently good for any culinary tradition. But the exotic staples of passover are not so easy. Such is the dilemma I faced when cooking Passover for my in-laws for the first time.

My in-laws are originally from the Ohio and were lucky to spot a Jew in the wild for most of their lives. I am an anomaly. They are very polite. On my first visit many years ago they spent a great deal of energy trying to make me feel comfortable at Christmas. It took a while to convey the fact that I eat bacon, shellfish and have my Friday nights and Saturdays free to do as I please. Ten years later, I am still a curiosity with my strong opinions and curly hair.

Imagine my hesitation and concern when my sister-in-law Bev and I decided to take on passover during our visit to Winnetka (Just outside of Chicago, where a segment of the clan now lives). The Ohioans would be driving up on Friday, just in time for our mock-seder. Since I would be the only Jew, we forewent any formal traditions in favor of simple explanations and talk of Charlton Heston. Lucky for me there is a wondrous and mystical land called Highland Park that exists just north of Winnetka. Apparently this heavily Jewish community is quite proud of their Max’s deli.

We started with Max’s chopped liver, which was a solid version with just enough eggs, schmaltz and onions to satisfy me. Surprisingly the paté was scooped up and passed around and everyone seemed to enjoy the odd crackers with which it was served.

Max’s has exceptional house-made gefilte fish, which was subtle and a little sweet. Some of the finest I’ve had. The adults all took a sample but were generally soft on the experience. No amount of horseradish can mask the oddity of a poached fish ball.

Now to the good stuff. I am known for my Matzoh Ball soup. When it is on, it is often lauded as the ‘best I’ve had’. Sadly, a slight measurement gaff rendered my balls dense on this occasion, so the goys didn’t get my A-game. But, for the sake of blogginess, I’m giving up the recipe…..

For the soup: In a large stock pot place a whole-cut-up-organic-chicken. Cover with water to twice the height of the chicken. Simmer. DO NOT BOIL – this will break down the bones and cloud your broth. Skim foam. When the water turns slightly golden add a stalk of celery, a peeled parsnip, a peeled rutabaga, an onion with the skin on (will help with golden color). Continue to simmer for another hour. Add in 8-10 peeled whole carrots and a bunch of dill. Simmer for another hour or until the carrots are fork tender. At this point the broth should be pretty golden in color and have the aroma of perfection. Remove all of the meat and vegetables, discarding everything except the chicken and carrots. Strain the broth a couple of times (I use cheesecloth or a coffee filter). Season with salt. This is probably the most important flavor step. Don’t be shy with the salt. Your guests will appreciate your sense of taste. Cool the broth overnight and remove the rendered fat layer from the top (reserve to use a schmaltz in the matzoh balls). 

For matzoh balls: I use the Second Avenue Deli recipe as a base: CLICK HERE I’ve massaged it a little over time and add chopped parsley. The trick is to find the balance of wet and dry. The texture should be firm but a little moist. The size of your eggs will play a big part in getting the right balance. I also let it sit for multiple hours, not the 30 minutes they suggest. Experiment, make it your own. The bottom line here is that the baking powder is the best fluffer in the business. Forget seltzer.

To assemble my soup I put the maztoh balls in the soup pot to keep them hot. I tear apart some of the chicken meat, slice the carrots and then ladle the broth and balls over top. I’ll often sprinkle some chopped parsley too.

Needless to say the crew universally enjoyed the soup, despite the fact that I was a tablespoon short on the baking powder. Even this kids gobbled it up.

But the real star of the evening was a brisket recipe I’ve adapted from a Food and Wine recipe for “Grandma Selma’s Brisket”, which is made with coca-cola: CLICK HERE. I’m guessing the coke works as a tenderizer and adds a little sweetness to the sauce. I add fingerling potatoes, scale back the tomatoes a bit and am generous with the coke. You can also add some english peas right at the end for a little color. Everyone raved that it was their favorite dish by far. It just goes to show that midwesterners love their meat and potatoes. For me, this is a departure from my mother’s [wonderful] traditional brisket, which is much sweeter from ketchup and brown sugar.

So generally I feel that our Passover dinner was a great success. I love to see the children squirm at the thought of trying a new strange dish. And I was pleasantly surprised by how, for the most part, my in-laws enjoyed themselves. In fact, the next day, they were all over the leftovers. My mother-in-law was picking apart the brisket remains, just like my bubby used to do. But next year, I think I’m going to return to hosting my Hebrew homies. I like the idea of not having to stand in defense of Gefilte fish.