Category Archives: Food Porn

Food Porn

Farmer Browns: Little Skillet

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The street food trend is reaching a tipping point. This is a good thing – damn good thing. The more the merrier! I’m still waiting for a Thai food vendor. Sticky rice and mangos, noodle stall, Thai coffee – just like Bangkok…..I can’t imagine a better cuisine to represent (I’m just handing out business ideas here people). Who’s with me?

Last week I stumbled on to Little Skillet [LINK], the latest venture from the folks at Farmer Browns. I say stumble because I had heard about the place and planned to visit, but never put two and two together until I was walking down Townsend for a business thing and looked down the alley to see a mob of people hanging out in an alley huddled over corn-based food boxes. After my meeting I came back. The setup is very cool – it feels out of place off of bustling Townsend street, but immediately you are transported into a soul food vacuum.

The menu is a simple extension of the Framer Brown’s concept: soul food with a sustainable slant. They have chicken and waffles, biscuits and gravy, a bunch of po boys: pulled pork, creole shrimp, some salads and sides. The dudes in the window are hopping kicking out box after box with some attitude to boot. Bring it.

The pulled pork is great – a little greasy, a little spicy – tons of flavor. The fried chicken is good. Not the best in the city, but becomes transcendent paired with a good waffle (belgian style), some syrup and a little side of their sausage gravy. Ok, we’re talking coronary, but acceptable for an infrequent treat, right? So why have I had it twice in a week?

What’s more important here, and bound to be the subject of future posts, is that the street food era is upon us, in full force. Almost to the point where it’s becoming prosaic. And I’m so completely on board. I love the idea of getting quality food from a stand, cart, window or stall. I’m a busy guy. I don’t often have the desire or time to sit down for a long lunch, but damned if I’m gonna eat fast food. This trend allows for me to track down some serious eats in just about every neighborhood in town to grab a quick fix or to even feed my crew on a job site. It’s a wonder it hasn’t caught on sooner, since every other culture in the world has rocking street food.

Little Skillet is a welcomed entrant into the genre. In fact, they are a model for the simplicity in form and execution that keeps San Francisco on the cutting edge (mimicking concepts practiced universally around the world, of course!).

Pillows of Love: [Ricotta] Gnocchi Thursday

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Thursdays in Rome were sacred to me. Thursday was gnocchi day. It seems that this varies from region to region, so not all Italians celebrate the tradition. But spend a year and Rome and I assure you Thursdays will become your gnocchi day too. What could be more perfect than a savory dumpling coated with a simple hint of flavor?

Gnocchi Thursday

Let’s start by getting the pronunciation right. It isn’t hard. “Gn” is sort of like a “ny” sound. Practice it: gn, ny, gn, ny, gn, ny (said like you are teasing someone). Occhi is pronounced “aoh-ki”. Always remember that “ch” in Italian is a “k” sound. Put it all together: ny-aoh-ki, gn-hockey, Gnocchi. Take that tidbit of wisdom and practice saying “bruschetta” at a few times. It ain’t “brushetta”!

Here comes the wiki, cause you know that’s how I roll:

The word gnocchi means “lumps”, and may derive from nocchio, a knot in the wood, or from nocca (knuckle). It has been a traditional Italian pasta type of probably Middle Eastern origin since Roman times. It was introduced by the Roman Legions during the enormous expansion of the empire into the countries of the European continent. In the past 2000 years each country developed its own specific type of small dumplings, with the ancient Gnocchi as their common ancestor. In Roman times, gnocchi were made from a semolina porridge-like dough mixed with eggs, and are still found in similar forms today, particularly in Sardinia (where they do not contain egg, however, and are known as malloreddus). One variety, gnocchi di pane (literally bread noodles), is made from bread crumbs and is popular in Friuli and Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol. Another variety from Trentino-Alto Adige/Sudtirol is spinach gnocchi, called strangolapreti. This translates to “choke the priest.” The use of potato is a relatively recent innovation, occurring after the introduction of the potato to Europe in the 16th century.

Ricotta Gnocchi

While I certainly love a good potato gnocchi, in my opinion nothing compares to the lighter, more pillowy ricotta variety. And you’ll be surprised at how easy they are to make. This recipe is interpreted from a blogger compadre at Delicious Days.

Prep time: ~15 minutes
Ingredients (for 2):
1 1/4 cup Ricotta
1 egg yolk (M-L)
1/4-1/2 tsp fine sea salt
2 tbsp Parmigiano (or Pecorino), freshly grated
1/4 cup all-purpose flour, extra for dusting the dough/board

Ricotta Gnocchi

Start by removing any excess liquid from the Ricotta by putting it in a fine-mesh strainer. In a large bowl add Ricotta cheese, egg yolk, salt and freshly grated Parmigiano. Mix well with a wooden spoon. Next gradually add the flour and stir in briefly, just until combined – the dough will still be quite sticky. (Of course you can add more flour at this point, but keep in mind, that the more flour you use, the denser the gnocchi become in the end. And you want them to be as light & fluffy as possible, with a velvet-like texture.)

Gnocchi on the Cutting Board

Forming these gnocchi is the slightly tricky step – this is the technique that works best for me: Generously flour a board, take a big tablespoon of the dough and scoop it onto the board. Dust the roll with flour (dust your hands generously, too!), before rolling it into a finger-thick log. Cut it into little pillows (stick the knife’s blade into the flour to prevent it from sticking to the dough). Give it a little pinch in the center for shape. I actually learned from my Italian housekeeper (see pervious Spaghetti post) that with potato gnocchi you use your thumb in a downward motion to spin out the shape. These ricotta buggers are too fragile though. Place each gnoccho on a floured board or parchment paper lined baking tray and lightly dust them again. Continue quickly with the next step, otherwise they will get soggy and stick to the paper/board.

Gnocchi Out of the Water

Meanwhile bring a large pot of water to a boil, add a generous dump of salt and reduce heat until the water bubbles lightly. Add the gnocchi and stir once, so they don’t stick to the bottom – then let cook until they start floating on top. Depending on their size this may take 2 to 4 minutes. Remove with a strainer or slotted spoon and serve immediately on a warmed platter. This dish works perfect as a family-style middle-course.

From my perspective, the toppings should be simple. Light and sweet tomato sauce works best (not the one I gave you earlier with the spaghetti). Try Marcella Hazan’s Tomato Sauce with Onion and Butter. I’ll give you the recipe tomorrow. Or a simple brown butter and sage works wonders. You might also try a light pesto, like arugula, wild nettle or red peppers.

I’m amazed at how many of you are trying these recipes and replying with your successes (not so many failures……yet). I envision a legion of little zealots bouncing around their kitchens, pumping music loudly (this is the only way to cook) and making their families very happy. This one is gonna rock them!

The Joi of Khao Soi

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I want you to close your eyes and dream about Thailand with me. As I’ve mentioned before, during the 90s I owned an adventure travel business focused on Southeast and South Asia. I spent many months poking around the hidden corners of Laos, Burma, Vietnam, India, Nepal, Bhutan……but there is one place that I can truly call my home-away-from-home: Thailand.

Khao Soi Noodle Soup

Photo Courtesy of David Hagerman at Easting Asia (LINK)

As the gateway to Southeast Asia, Thailand is easy to navigate, has unbelievably friendly people, a great diversity of interesting sights, stunning countryside and, most importantly, the best food in Asia. Hands down. Sorry to you Indiaphiles or Vietnamists, I believe the Thais have it. Food is such an inextricable element of the culture in Thailand, much like in Italy it dominates much of the experience. Also like Italy, Thai food is quite regional: from seafood and spicy curry in the South, to grilled meats and papaya salad in the Northeast. They’ve borrowed the best influences from their neighbors, incorporating elements of Malay, Indian, Chinese and even Burmese traditions into their culinary fabric.

Today’s journey takes us to a Burmese influenced dish called Khao Soi. Let us start with our old friend Wikipedia:

Khao soi or Khao soy (Thai: ข้าวซอย) is a Burmese-influenced dish served in northern Laos and northern Thailand, especially Luang Prabang and Chiang Mai, respectively. In northern Laos, this dish is a soup made with wide rice noodles, coarsely chopped pork, tomatoes, fermented soy beans, chillies, shallots, and garlic, then topped with pork rind, bean sprouts, chopped scallions, and chopped cilantro. In northern Thailand, it is a soup-like dish made with deep-fried crispy egg noodles, pickled cabbage, shallots, lime, nam prik pao, and meat in a curry-like sauce containing coconut milk. The curry is similar to that of yellow or Massaman curries but is thinner. Some recipes use Massaman curry in the dish. Though northern Lao people have a special way of preparing this dish, different versions of it can be found at Lao restaurants. It is popular as a street dish eaten by Thai people, though not frequently served in Western Thai restaurants.

So, let’s get on to the dream sequence. It’s a hot day in the Chiang Mai. Lunch time. (Khao Soi is a lunch dish, as are most noodle fare – so stop ordering Pad Thai for dinner – in fact, stop ordering Pad Thai at all, there are so many other better Thai noodle dishes – but that’s another post). We’re on a motorbike poking around the city, exhaust and dust kicks up from thousands of other motorbikes clogging the streets. Under a hot tin roof there is a gaggle of people seated on plastic chairs hovered over big bowls, slurping up noodles buried under hunks of stewed meat and crunchy, pickled veggies. The steam from a curry-rich, sweet and savory broth billows into their faces and all you can think about is the Thai word “Hom”, which means aromatic.

Chiang Mai Khao Soi Shop

Photo Courtesy of David Hagerman at Easting Asia (LINK)

We park our bike on the shoulder and take a seat. The sound of Thai people chattering can resemble crickets or cicadas in the jungle (if you’ve never heard this sound click here to listen) – it is cacophonous, yet soothing at the same time. We order startlingly cold Singha Beer. We wait for our Khao Soi. It can take a while, so maybe a few beers are in order. Our heads start to swim a little bit in anticipation of something exquisite and numbed by the Singha. Maybe it takes so long for the soup to arrive because you have to get mentally prepared. Khao Soi is best served relaxed.

At last the bowls arrive. Thai are big fans of self-seasoning. Khao Soi has a specific lineup: sour picked veggies, roasted chili paste, lime and raw shallots. We play with the seasoning, adjust for spiciness and begin to pray over the bowl. Crunchy noodles that sit on top and when mixed with the broth and the wet noodles, add a contrast that defines Khao Soi, to me. The meat is fall-off-the-bone tender (chicken or beef or both) and has absorbed the flavor of this powerful broth. An occasional bite of a veggie or shallot adds another layer of texture an flavor that evokes a smile or a nod. We scoop the coconut broth with our spoons in tandem with our noodle and meat foraging. We start to sweat. Ahhhh.

Thai Massage

Thai Massage

Nothing follows a spicy, heady, noodle fest like a Thai massage. It is almost essential to unscramble your body and brain. In San Francisco, you can have them both, within a block of each other. Last week I received a text from the owner of Grand Pu Bah: “Hello! I have Northern-style spice curry noodle today. Cheer!!!”. I text back: “Khao Soi??!!!”. It’s a special that shows up on the menu rarely and is unlike any of their other ‘refined’ Thai dishes. It’s rustic and raunchy – just like you’ll find on the streets of Chiang Mai. If you have a chance to track this special down, don’t miss it! And…….Suchada Thai massage is 1/2 block down the street. Ahhhh.

A Platter of Figs

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A good friend of mine calls David Tanis the only real genius he knows personally. Apparently Mr. Tanis operates on another plane of existence when it comes to the culinary arts. As my friend described “David could look at a stack of books and figure out how to realign it’s structure and turn it into something tasty”.

A Platter of Figs - Click to Purchase

A Platter of Figs - Click to Purchase

David’s cookbook, A Platter of Figs – And Other Recipes, may not stand up to “genius” masterworks in literature, but it is a damn good cookbook. You might not be surprised to learn that I enjoy reading cookbooks cover-to-cover. I don’t often follow recipes strictly, but I relish the idea of the influence gained from studying recipes and applying the theories to my existing skill-set. For that reason alone, Platter is worth owning. More traditional cookbook users, who follow recipes, won’t be disappointed either.

I was really struck by the forward by Alice Waters and the introduction by Mr. Tanis. She provides a glowing and humorous introduction to how he became her chosen-one to run the prestigious kitchen at Chez Panisse many years ago. He speaks of his proclivity towards home cooking and speaks frankly about the impersonal nature of restaurant dining. I found it refreshing from someone who makes a living cooking in a restaurant. I have also come to prefer the intimate dinner party with an appreciative group of friends, spending a day immersed in food from market to table, versus the quick fix and mixed bag of dining out.

This weekend I dove into Platter of Figs by recreating one of his summer menus (pictures below). While his structure was there for guidance, it was wonderful to make interpretations at the market that would result in personalizing the ultimate results. I think my guests would agree it was one of the tastiest meals we’ve served in a while. With that, I give a hearty Zealot recommendation for “A Platter of Figs”.

The menu:

- Acme ciabatta crostini with bellweather farms sheep’ ricotta, the-sweetest-cherry-tomatoes-ever, basil chiffonade.

- Braised dirty girl romano beans with lemon, garlic and chili.

- Long-grilled fennel.

- Radicchio hearts wrapped in pancetta with balsamic.

- Porchetta-style grilled pork loin, rubbed in fennel fronds, rosemary and insanely fresh garlic.

- Macedonia of blueberries and apricots with grappa.

- Brown turkey figs!

Caccio e Pepe

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When I read books I tend to read every title by a particular author in sequence. Perhaps this is an OCD condition or perhaps there is virtue in fully absorbing the life’s work of a talented scribe. Whatever the case, it feels very rewarding to have a theme to guide me. In food, it is not much different. For many years I was a pasta whore (and continue to be an enthusiast). I sought out every possible recipe and ate pasta night after night. Thank goodness for my metabolism and genes. I couldn’t pull that off today!

Spaghetti

Spaghetti

There may be no other venue that inspires chefs as much as pasta. The myriad of variations and interpretations is staggering. One could easily make a life’s mission out of studying pasta in all of its forms. That person would likely be obese. Yet, for all of the variations and interpretations, it is often the simplest creations that elicit my awe. I’ve given you my perfect spaghetti with tomato sauce which uses subtle techniques but is ultimately incredibly simple . I’m gonna drop some super easy ricotta gnocchi on you before the summer is up. But today we’re going really lo-fi: Roman-style Caccio e Pepe.

One of my favorite non sequitors of all time came from the documentary “When We Were Kings”, which chronicled the ‘Rumble in the Jungle’ fight between Muhammad Ali and George Foreman. George Plimpton was musing about Ali’s genius as a poet and said:

Here he was delivering a lecture, senior class day with these 1,000, 2,000 Harvard graduates, and…he had these little cards in front of him. He gave this wonderful speech about he hadn’t had the opportunity but they had and they should use that to make the world a better place. It was moving and funny, and a great roar of appreciation at the end. Then someone shouted out, “Give us a poem!” And everybody quieted down. Now, the shortest poem according to Bartlett’s Quotations is called ”On the Antiquity of Microbes” and the poem is “Adam had ‘em.” Pretty short. But Muhammad Ali’s poem was ”Me, whee.” Two words. I wrote Bartlett’s Quotations and I said, “Look, that’s shorter.” It stands for something more than the poem itself. ”Me, whee.” What a fighter he was. And what a man.

Ali and Plimpton

Ali and Plimpton

What I love about this tidbit is how much punch comes from such a small package. It says so much about Ali, his character and his fierce intellect. To me, Caccio e Pepe pays homage to the “Me, whee” mentality. In it’s simplest form, it says look, I am pasta, but what a pasta I am!

I may be painfully repetitive, but I must restate for my new readers that my recipes are concepts versus strict directions. As you get familiar with the ingredients and objectives, you may find there are better paths to the results. Luckily, this is as easy as it gets.

Boil some spaghetti, spaghettini or bucatini (with a hole in the middle to absorb sauce) in a large pot of heavily salted water. Don’t be shy, salt in water = flavor in pasta. Cook until just shy of al dente. This means don’t be afraid of a little bite or crunch. It’s hard to express what al dente means to a neophyte, but there really is no other way to enjoy pasta. The crunch provides a textural contrast to the sauce. It’s just proper. Don’t dump your water, as we’ll need a little.

When the pasta is ready, transfer it to a saute pan with a little butter and / or olive oil. Here is a point of interpretation. I like the blend of both. You can have all of either / or depending on your preference. Just use quality product in either case. Fruity olive oil or a European-style butter will make a great difference.

Next, add a little of the pasta water, a small ladle or so. If you want a more creamy dish, you could substitute milk or cream here. I prefer the water, as the nature gluten in the pasta shines through and blends well with the fats. Add about half of the planned fresh cracked pepper and a little cheese. Here is another point of preference. Pecorino Romano is the tradition in Rome, but might be a little sharp for some. You could easily substitute Parmigiano Reggiano or create a mix of both. The objective is to get some nuttiness and creaminess, that plays right against the spicy pepper.

Caccio e Pepe

Caccio e Pepe

Take a warm dish and swirl a pile of the spaghetti nice and high. Grate a nice pile of cheese on top and then top that with a good shot of more cracked pepper. That’s it! As you can see it’s really all about the cheese, the pepper and the pasta. If done properly, you’ll get a balance of flavors that all play well together but each brings a distinct present to the party. Nutty, spicy, creamy, bitey, rich, yet light – it’s an everyman dish. Simple, yet complex. Me, whee!

Just for shits and grins, I’m gonna send you off with my favorite Ali poem:

I done wrassled with an aligator, tussled with a whale,
handcuffed lightening, thrown thunder in jail,
Just last week I  murdered a rock, injured a stone, hospitalized a brick.
I’m so mean I make medicine sick.

Ice Cream is the New Cupcake

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Last year we had cupcakes. Way way too many cupcakes for my waistline. So what hot trend comes just in time for the summer of aught-nine? Carrot sticks? Brussel Sprouts? No, it’s fatty-ass, fatty-fat-fat ice cream. And I’m psyched. Here’s a run down on the hotspots for getting creamed-up this summer.

BiRite Creamery – Who would have thunk that this is already the old-hat in the new trend of scoop shops in the city? BiRite has developed a cult following and is the perfect pairing with a day at Dolores Park topped off with Pizzeria Delfina (my son’s favorite playdate). Standout flavors are Roasted Banana (in fact, get a roasted banana pie with graham crust and meringue topping for your next party – oh oh oh). Salted Caramel, Balsamic Strawberry and Honey Lavender are also some favorites. You really can’t go wrong with anything here.

Humphry Slocombe – With decidedly more attitude, sass and panache, HS opened a few months ago down the street from me. Their Salt & Pepper is nucking futs! Other standouts are the Secret Breakfast (with Bourbon and Cornflakes), Olive Oil, Blue-Bottle Vietnamese Coffee. They take things to a new level (Government Cheese? Pistachio Bacon!). Aside from ice cream you can also grab things like Bacon Peanut Brittle and Shortbread Cookies made with Lardo. I give HS the nod for coolest kid on the block. Follow Jake’s twitter feed @humphryslocombe to keep up with flavors.

Humphry Slocombe Is Cool!

Humphry Slocombe Is Cool!

Xanath - Brand spanking new in the Mission, with some straightforward flavors, centered around the vanilla bean (they import vanilla and saffron as another business). Mixed reviews on yelp so far and I haven’t bean (get it, bean, like vanilla). Don’t see a web site. Missionites like dem some ice cream, eh? Mitchells ain’t the only game in town.

Ici – The East Bay is not exempt from the trends. Ici is a project by yet another Chez Panisse disciple. Alice breeds them, doesn’t she? Ice cream is good, with some innovative flavors, but not over the top. What I really love is their homemade cones. They’re like crispy pancakes with a dollop of chocolate at the bottom to prevent dripping. Check them out at the Berkeley Farmer’s Market in addition to their scoop shop.

Ici in Berkeley

Ici in Berkeley

Tara’s Organic – There’s a battle brewing in them thar hills! If you check out the Yelp! pages for Tara’s, it seems that there ain’t room enough for two organic queens of Berkeley. Tara’s was established in 2005 by Tara Esperanza in Santa Fe, NM. In August of 2008 Tara’s moved to Berkeley (naturally). She’s got a boatload of creative ingredient (Pink Peppercorn, Stout with Fudge, Plum Ginger to name a few) and has every organic certification under the sun!

Three Twins – This Height Store is a branch of a Marin and Napa mini-chain. They offer very straightforward flavors and appear to be seeking to dethrone Ben & Jerrys for the gen-next Ice Cream empire.

With this bounty of new places, the one company that is really raking in the $$$ is Straus dairy. As I’ve recently learned, almost all of these places use the Straus base to avoid complications in pasteurization. Good for you Straus!

Look out for a new scoop shop in your neighborhood soon. Maybe it’ll be in that old cupcake shop from last year.

Hanger Steak: You Need to Know

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There is no question that the hanger steak is my favorite cut of meat. I discovered it a number of years ago and have kept it in my back pocket to wow dinner party guests. The texture and flavor of the hanger is unlike any other cut of meat. It is just as flavorful as a ribeye but significantly less expensive. It’s not commonly available in a lot of markets, so you’ll need to track down your own source (I’m not giving mine up, cause I don’t want to be fighting to get my meat). Check out the wiki on hanger for a solid description:

Hanger Steak

Hanger Steak

A hanger steak is a cut of beef steak which is said to “hang” from the diaphragm of the steer. (Anatomically the diaphragm is one muscle, but it is commonly cut into two separate cuts of meat: the “hanger steak” traditionally considered more flavorful due to its proximity to the kidneys, and the outer skirt steak which is composed of tougher muscle within the diaphragm.) The hanger is attached to the last rib and the spine near the kidneys. It resembles flank steak, and is a vaguely V-shaped pair of muscles with a long, inedible membrane down the middle. The hanger steak is not particularly tender, but has a lot of flavor, and is best marinated and cooked quickly over high heat (grilled or broiled) and served rare or medium-rare, to avoid toughness. Chefs with experience preparing beef kidneys report that the hanger steak’s aroma preserves a trace of kidney.

There is only one hanger steak per animal, and the entire cut typically weighs about 1 to 1.5 lbs (450 to 675g). It is prized for its flavor, and was sometimes known as “butcher’s steak” because butchers would often keep it for themselves rather than offer it for sale.

Grilled Hanger Steak

Grilled Hanger Steak

There area a million marinades that would work for a hanger. It really grabs flavor. If you don’t have time, a dry rub will also work well – I love my lavender salt or just a mix of garlic, onion, salt and pepper would work. Fresh herbs make a great rub as well. I’ll often take a bunch of rosemary, thyme, some garlic and onions and wrap the meat up overnight. Get your grill really hot (charcoal is ALWAYS preferred) and turn four times, about 3-4 minutes each time to get char on the whole steak. Use your thumb to check doneness – it should be about as dense as the palm of your hand, underneath your pinky. The crust should be glistening.

To avoid dryness, the trick is to take the meat off the grill and wrap it in foil tightly for 10 minutes to rest. Then slice it with the grain widthwise into medallions (don’t cut it on the diagonal like flank steak or it will be tough). Drizzle some olive oil or butter on the meat and pour the juices that accumulated in the foil. Sprinkle some granular salt and hit it with a shot of pepper.

Hangers do very well at parties, family style. Serve up a few with some cherry tomatoes and watch people ignore their utensils – finger food at its best. Don’t forget to invite me.

Greece Revisited

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Hosted a dinner party on Saturday night. The objective was to recreate some of the flavors of our Greece trip. While everyone was effusive with their compliments, I’d give the performance mixed reviews. Here was the menu:

Babaganouj
Tzatziki
Greek Salad
Grilled, Herb-Rubbed Leg of Lamb
Grilled Fennel
Grilled Yellow Potatoes
Petite Strawberries with Yogurt and Honey

I made the baba a few days in advance with an eggplant from our planet organics box. Real simple, tahini, lemon, garlic, parsely. Tzatziki is also pretty simple. Peel and seed a cucumber, puree with lemon juice, clove of garlic and some dill. Mix with 1.5 cups of greek yogurt. Both served with an Acme sweet batard, nice and warm.

Greek Salad

Greek Salad

For the salad, you can refer to the previous post where I spell out rules. Two farmers market visits scored me some vine tomatoes, sweet red onion, green peppers and cucumbers. I assembled the salad in two layers since I was feeding nine. I piled fresh dill in between the layers and put some slabs of feta on top. A simple splash of olive oil and citrus vinegar was all that was necessary to coax the best from the veggies.

Fennel Before Grilling

Fennel Before Grilling

Everything was going smoothly. For the mains, I purchased five pounds of a pastured, grass-fed leg of lamb. I figured I’d try out Avedano’s, an oft-mentioned butcher in Bernal (on Cortland). I rubbed the sucker in rosemary, thyme and shopped garlic and let it sit for four hours. I prepped the fennel by trimming and quartering the bulbs and tossing them in olive oil, salt and pepper. For the potatoes, which were small and lovely, I par-boiled them until al-dente, halved them and tossed them in olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper.

Potatoes Before Grilling

Potatoes Before Grilling

Once the grill was hot I put the fennel on and got some lovely char going. From previous experiences I learned that fennel needs to be cooked through and takes a long time. Crunchy fennel doesn’t work. Once browned I moved them to the edges of the grill, away from the direct heat. I then did the same for the lamb, getting some char on and then moving the legs away from the direct coals (which I only put on half of my Weber).

Leg of Lamb, Marinating

Leg of Lamb, Marinating

I cooked the lamb to 135 degrees, medium rare. Pulled it off, let it rest. Off come the fennel, tossed in the remaining oil, salted and served. Put the potatoes on the direct heat to crisp up for a few minutes while I sliced the lamb. I found the meat to have a confusing maze of fat and tissue. There was plenty of meat, but I think the next time I would trim up the sections better to eliminate the unnecessary stuff. Pulled the potatoes off, cut them into quarters and tossed them back in the rosemary oil.

The fennel was sublime. Really. Best dish of the night. I can’t imagine a better preparation. The potatoes were good, but were made even better as my friend David and I dredged them into the oil. The trick is to make sure these guys are well coated. Everyone complimented the meat, but I wasn’t sold. I found it to lack lambiness. I hope this isn’t a symptom of the grass-fed. Perhaps it was the cut or the preparation – I’ll own it if it’s me. The only way to tell is to give it another shot. It’s a long summer.

Julie flexed her culinary muscle by taking over the strawberry dessert. I didn’t leave much yogurt so she dished out a dollop over some sweet, petite farmer’s market strawberries and a little dash of honey. Really, a perfect ending to the meal. Simple, sweet and small.

Interlude: Greek Food Porn

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The Water of Love

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Today I was surprised. We were all surprised. It was one of those days where you stumble across something lovely and want to savor it, respect it, pay homage to it. I suppose writing this blog is the best I can do to honor our meal at To Nero Tis Agapis (The Water of Love) restaurant on the island of Spetses, Greece.

We planned to rent bikes and ride until it started to rain and then find somewhere for lunch. The rain held back and we made it a quarter of the way around the island and faced the decision: press on and take a chance of no more restaurants and possible rain, or turn back and eat. We decided to pack a lunch for a long ride tomorrow, since the weather forecast was more forgiving and find somewhere to eat lunch now.

I had a place stuck in my head that we had passed 10 or 15 minutes earlier. It was perched over the sea and had a white-linen elegance top to bottom, without feeling pretentious. It was totally empty.

I often judge a restaurant by the number of people inside. If it’s good, the locals will be eating there. But this was 2pm on a Tuesday in a shoulder season on an upscale tourist island. No matter, it was about to start raining and the place looked fine.

As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, I am really amazed by Greek hospitality. We have still yet to enjoy a meal without receiving something on the house. It must be a national ploy to justify higher costs by making visitors think they are getting something for free. Still, I love it! The people really take time to make you feel welcome, play with our son Judah and create an experience. Good for you, Greece.

Here we were welcomed, seated and treated to a warm basket of bread and an amous bouche of raw sardine in olive oil with parsley. The young waitress, originally from Athens, with perfect English, immediately offered suggestions. Have you tried this traditional dish or that type of fish? She had Julie and I hooked, as we love to get suggestions and let someone else do the ordering. This was our chance to let go and try some new things. We were in her hands.

 

Tarosalata, Fish Roe Dip, Spetses, Grecce

Taramosalata, Fish Roe Dip, Spetses, Grecce

 

She started us off with something so wonderful it was shocking how fast it went down. As you can see by the photo there was an ample sized plate of “Taramosalata”, a dip of fish roe, common to the region, but new to me. It was lightly fishy, but mostly creamy and fluffy and savory – oh my. We scooped and scooped with warm bread until I was dredging the plate for stragglers. Really, I was not expecting this and it started off this meal off very right.

 

Baked Cheese with Tomatoes

Baked Cheese with Tomatoes

 

Next she brought us some baked cheese with tomatoes and herbs. Clean and simple, filled with flavor and a sweet crust on the cheese. This was followed by our first foray into octopus in Greece. We both have mixed feelings about this sea-critter, as it universally seems chewy, but is tasty enough and seemingly a darling to foodies. Here, they balanced the chewiness by drying and then grilling it until slightly crispy. The dish was elevated with some grilled local mushrooms, similar to chanterelles, and tiny pearl onions, all drizzled with a fine balsamic reduction.

Fresh Cod, Before

Fresh Cod, Before

 

Fresh Cod, After

Fresh Cod, After

 

For our main course we were offered a choice of fresh fish, just off the boat. Interestingly, on the Greek Islands, most of the fish is frozen, which must be indicated on the menu, by law. Fresh fish is very seasonal and a mixed bag. Luckily, The Water of Love is devoted to seasonality and they keep up with local fishermen. Today we were offered cod and red mullet. We opted for the cod. It was prepared flash fried, whole. Upon piercing the skin, the flaky snow white flesh burst through. I drizzled mine with lemon, olive oil and pepper. Simple & simply perfect – perhaps the best piece of cod I’ve ever had.

 

Baklava

Baklava

 

For dessert we were served bakhlavah, fillo pastry with chopped nuts and honey and halvas, a semolina cake. Both were subtly sweet though I prefer the flakiness and nuttiness of bakhlavah. Of course they were on-the-house!

 

Halvas

Halvas

 

We spent a while chatting with our waitress, reveling in the fact that the seasonal crowds were still weeks away and we were their only guests. The rain subsided and we hopped back on our bikes filled with a bit of smugness in knowing that we just had an experience. Maybe it was a special occasion for the chef to step up, or maybe every meal at The Water of Love is this good. Regardless, unless you take the trip to Spetses and venture out of the main port to seek out this tiny enclave, you’ll just have to trust me.

Respect To the Greek Salad

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It’s a common occurrence to find a food made in its homeland significantly more appealing than the neutered counterpart we are served stateside. Pizza comes to mind. All Thai food falls into this realm. Who among us has had a proper fish taco outside of Baja? Well, to my surprise, the Greek Salad is also one of these dishes and I’m amazed that there is actually something more to this dish.

On any menu the LAST, I mean LAST salad I would ever order was the Greek salad. Frankly, I never knew who did. Why was it there? Who was it for? In the US the standard recipe seems to be iceberg lettuce paired with sliced olives, tomato wedges, chopped cucumbers, crumbled feta, onions and sport peppers crowned with a vinaigrette. What’s interesting is that it is not terribly different from the proper version, but subtle differences mean a lot here.

In Greece, the “Greek” salad uses tomatoes as the base. In fact, I’d like to say that the Greek Salad is a tomato salad, first and foremost. Everything else is there to compliment the tomato. They also cut their wedges in half, to make them bite sized without comprising the burst. There is no, or very little, lettuce in a Greek salad. It is very American to require roughage in our salads. Take it away and you have a much more focused offering. Feta comes in a block, topped with some finé herbs, which makes more sense, as you can add as you need. A nice hunk goes well with a tomato bite, rather than a smattering of crumbles randomly accumulated. The olive is one of those things that doesn’t translate well at home. Here they are buttery and light and add a compliment as opposed to a bitter contrast. We’ve mostly seen a variety with wrinkled black skins that are amazing. Include them whole, with the pit.

An important element in the mix is the red onion. Clearly they are using a small, fresh variety here because I am gobbling them up raw and with abandon. At home I often avoid the massive, thick sliced, musky rings pawned in salads. When I shop for onions I always seek farmer’s market treats – small, shiny skin, picked within a few days. You can’t beat the flavor. For this salad, a nice sliver size works best. 

I’ve yet to see a sport pepper here, but have universally seen green bell peppers. Now I’m no big fan of the green pepper. I prefer yellow and red for their sweetness and rarely find a use for green. But here it works perfectly. A crispy bite texturally and in flavor, it just makes sense. The dressing tends to be a very light olive oil and lemon or vinegar. Not much needed.

I’m clearly interpreting what I see and giving props to the Greeks for surprising me with simple, clean and sometimes elegant food. In fact, today, we had the best meal so far and one that could hold its own with many in my travels. But that’s the next post. For now, go try to make a proper greek salad and give it some respect.

Ricotta Pancakes, Because It’s Sunday

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I’ve been wanting to try out some pancake recipes. Admittedly, I’m lazy when it comes to pancakes. I really like the Krusteaz mix I buy in massive bags at Costco. They’re fast, easy and delicious. It’s also great for waffles (just add oil) With a 4-year old kid, I’m all about convenience.

But, my foodie sensibilities bring about guilt anytime I take the easy way out. And making pancakes from scratch isn’t that difficult. Plus, you can mess around with subtle taste elements like buttermilk, ricotta, extracts, zests, etc. So today I made some ricotta discs of love.

Just look at the picture. You really want some, don’t you? Well go ahead and make them. Here is a recipe, adapted from Neal Fraser over at Food and Wine. Enjoy!!

INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
3 large eggs, separated
1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons milk
6 ounces ricotta cheese (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons)
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
Unsalted butter, for the griddle
Pure maple syrup, for serving

DIRECTIONS
In a small bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the milk, ricotta, sugar and vanilla. Combine the wet and dry ingredients and whisk until the batter is smooth.

Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites at medium speed until frothy. Beat at high speed until soft peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the batter until no streaks remain.

Preheat the oven to 225°. Heat a griddle, then lightly butter it. For each pancake, ladle a scant 1/4 cup of the batter onto the griddle. Cook over moderately low heat until the bottoms are golden and the pancakes are just beginning to set, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook until golden on the bottom and cooked through, about 1 minute longer. Transfer the pancakes to plates and keep them warm in the oven while you make the rest. Serve the pancakes with maple syrup.

The Best Burger

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Tonight we had an impromptu gathering of the preschool-pick-up-patrol. I was itching for alcohol and suggested a kid-friendly watering hole (Axis Cafe or Bakar Fitness Center’s Cafe are fine spots). But the children had a different agenda. Within the span of their 15 minute playground time, a host of breakdowns and fights ensued. These kids weren’t up for public exposure. So, we hit whole foods and grabbed a movable feast that landed in my backyard.

It was finally time to introduce our friends, the Fletchers, to the perfect way to prepare a burger. I’ve spent years sampling burgers, trying recipes and techniques. Condiments, herbs, spices, onions, eggs – everybody has an opinion. Most wind up like meatloaf. For me, as with many foods, I find the secret to perfection is the most basic and essential approach. When you deconstruct a hamburger and add up the elemental components, you can focus on coaxing the individual flavors to their finest.

With that said, here is my approach.

The meat. I like chuck. Chuck is good. I’ve tried sirloin, tenderloin, rib eye and other various cuts of inappropriate burger meat. But a nice fatty slab of chuck roast is a good start. That’s right. I said slab. Because we’re gonna grind. Fresh. Now. The biggest secret to making a perfect burger is that the meat needs to be ground within a couple of hours of grilling. I grind twice on my kitchen aid. The less handling the better. I don’t trust the market to grind for me. Do it yourself.


Seasoning and shaping. The only seasoning necessary is salt and pepper. Liberally. Mixed it up lightly and spread the fat around. Form your patties nice and thick. The hot grill will cook them fast and if you want a medium rare burger, it needs to be pretty thick. Minimize handling.

Grilling. Charcoal. Hot. Take your gas grill and use it for zucchini kebabs or something. Break out the Weber and use natural charcoal heated in a chimney – no briquettes. Start by taking some red onion slices (about 1/4″) tossed in olive oil and grill until nice marks are formed and they start to soften. This will prime your grill for the burgers. Cook over direct heat and turn once. Do not over handle. Press with your finger to determine doneness. They should feel firm on the outside but soft in the center.


Bun. I like brioche. Sponge bread is good. Kaiser rolls will do. Whatever it is, toast it on the grill. Don’t be shy. Get a little dirty. Butter them if you’ve got balls.

Accouterments. These burgers are so good, they can be appreciated with nothing. I like the grilled red onions (see above). A fried egg. Blue cheese. Stinky cheese. Gruyere. Ketchup. Mustard. Pickles. Arugula. Radicchio. Horseradish sauce. I think if you use the burger as a base your creative talents will come through in your toppings. Don’t over do it.

Tonight we had a radicchio salad with 5 year-old balsamic, shallot and parmigiano. David found some obscure beers and we picked over the kid’s leftover Whole Foods frozen onion rings (yes they are really good). For dessert we warmed some walnut brownies and cut them up with fresh strawberries and whipped cream.

It may be April, but it sure feels like summer is here.