Street Food Fiasco

Posted on August 24, 2009 by ezealot

I promised my friends I would rant about the San Francisco Street Food Festival, so here it is. You know you love when the Zealot gets angry.

Regarding the recent Street Food Festival – I get that the cause is altruistic. Very nice to be promoting something for La Cocina. I appreciate that and am hesitant to be so down on the planners because their intentions were good. But…..

First, how can you have a “street food” festival without street food vendors? I talked about this last week and kinda hoped they just didn’t list the real vendors on the invitation. But no….just the creme brulee guy was there. Apparently, in a twist of irony, an actual street food vendor was detained for operating without a license. Newcomer “Don’t Forget Your Lunch” showed up without registering to bring some real street food cred and wound up in the slammer (so to speak).

It looks like next week’s EAT REAL FEST [LINK] Oakland actually has some real street food in the lineup. Perhaps they might be organized enough to keep lines manageable?

That’s the other gripe. Wandering down 24th street with my son at 3pm, we were excited to meet some friends and chomp some street bites. As we neared Folsom, the crowd started to thicken. Texts started bouncing around: “It’s a Zoo, We didn’t Even Go In. Too many people. Long lines” from my friend Sarah. From Alan: “Drinking at Homestead and making our way down” and 17 minutes later: “Yeah. We are officially out. Heading to Roosevelt Tamale Parlor”. As we arrived, it was clear that if we wanted any food we would have to wait in multiple long lines (I heard anywhere from 20-45 minutes each) just to pay for something I can get in their restaurants. I started waiting in the ticket line and was 15 minutes in before getting any food. Try that with a 4-year old in tow.

We wound up at Casa Sanchez because they had a big space out back with an open table (that seemingly hadn’t been bussed in hours). Roosevelt was pretty packed. It turns out that Casa Sanchez (and the other mission businesses that got slammed) didn’t know about the festival nor the resultant overflow of people who were fed up with waiting. Lines wrapped around the block at Humphrey Slocombe and other nearby favorites. Casa Sanchez was deep deep in the weeds. We felt sorry for them, but even worse for ourselves as we suffered through some pretty poor dishes that were slapped together. At least they had beer.

So what is to be learned? Planners of San Francisco outdoor festivals take heed: Stay true to your purpose. If you are going to promote street food, in support of street food vendors, include street food vendors. Only street food vendors. We appreciate that Delfina and Absinthe are capable of preparing street-like foods, but they miss the mark in authenticity when they can prepare everything in their full kitchens. Also, plan for crowds. We are a big city and people like food here. If we have to wait for more than 5 minutes max to get anything at a festival, you have failed. Plain and simple. Think ahead.

Dining Alone

Posted on August 18, 2009 by ezealot

This feels like a Michael Bauer blog post. Postulate on dining-related question to elicit reader feedback…..

I was in Boulder, Colorado this weekend and wound up dining alone at Jax, the home of Top Chef winner Hosea Rosenberg (I’ll post specifically about the meal later). As I sat at the bar I met some really cool people dropping their son off for college. I had fun getting to know them (and ultimately a few others as the conversation grew and the drinks flowed) and chomping down a lovely Cioppino. It got me thinking about the other times that I’ve dined alone and how I really feel about the experience.

There are many occasions where I simply do not prefer dining alone, not necessarily because of the solitude, but more because of the limitation on ordering. Tonight I have to be in the East Bay and thought about popping in to Pizzaiolo after my appointment. But the thought of it leaves me less than excited, because I don’t think I could choose one dish and be content. Pizzaiolo, like many of my current favorite places, is best appreciated family style.

Many menus are designed to complement themselves and there is an art to crafting the experience through ordering (oooh that sounds like a juicy post unto itself). Sauntering up to the bar and ordering a pizza or pasta may be plenty satisfying, but I would definitely long for a salad, meatballs or whatever other treats I could order with abandon in a group.

I suppose this is another reason why the current street food movement is appealing. One dish (or a very simply menu), easy to order and consume in solitude without feeling like you’re shorting the experience. In fact, you are embracing the experience. It’s designed for the solo diner to grab something special, share in a atmosphere and never feel like something was left out.

What do you think? And where would you recommend I go in the East Bay for a solo meal?

Technology Monday: Backpacking Cuisine

Posted on August 3, 2009 by ezealot

Next week I am heading out on a long-weekend to the Maroon Bells – Snowmass Wilderness in Colorado. I’ve been backpacking and camping most of my life. My father would take me to places like the Delaware Water Gap and the Wharton State Forest in New Jersey. Needless to say, this was rare amongst my fellow Jerseyites-of-the-80s, who would find it difficult to hit the trail in their Z-Cavariccis, leg-warmers and Forenza Sweaters.

Food was always important to us and it was a welcome challenge to try to make something tasty under spartan conditions. My dad’s prize possession was his “quickie pie maker”, a cast-iron press that would squeeze two pieces of bread and some filling together to make a ‘hot pocket’ of sorts. Roasting our apple sauce pies, laden with margarin, was the highlight of our camping trips. It didn’t matter how heavy this beast of a tool was, dad carried it without complaint (along with most of my stuff as well when I was young).

Waiting for Our Applesauce Quickie-Pies

When I got to college I actually took a course titled: Backpacking and Camping. Gotta love Temple University! While, you can certainly get a good education there if you dedicate yourself, they have plenty of coursework for those who just want to coast. I took three years of Russian and still cannot speak a word (but I was able to pass with A’s simply by giving the teacher a nice bottle of Vodka and sitting next to the Russian kids during the one-page final exam – true!).

In Backpacking 101 we mostly socialized, including our young, strapping teacher named Brett. There was a syllabus and we glossed over the lessons each week. Some inexperienced students actually asked questions and engaged Brett’s knowledge of the woods. For our final we were to spend a weekend on the Appalachian trail at Pole Steeple, the unofficial midway point of the trail. There were a lot of cute girls in the class, so I was excited to get away with some new people. A girl named Audrey had agreed to be my tent-mate. Although she had a boyfriend, she was definitely the prettiest girl in the bunch and would at least add some street-cred for bunking with me.

I Can't Believe I Found This Picture: Me & Tentmate

The trip was pretty great. Total strangers hanging in the woods, getting high and drunk for school credit!? I even picked up a new technique and dish while we were there. One of the campers brought an old bucket pot which he filled with sliced onions, hunks of pepperoni and a few cans of baked beans. He hung it over a branch in the fire and let it cook low and slow for a long long time. As is often the case when backpacking, the food might have tasted better not matter what was in it. But the simplicity of the one-pot meal was not lost on me and became the inspiration for many more to come.

Skip ahead to my adulthood. I lived in Colorado for six years and spent a lot of time in the wilderness. My roommate Tom was old-school – carrying an external-frame pack with a bag of P,B&J sandwiches and hot coffee. Me? I was all about the technology and lowering my pack weight. You know the type. Fucking anal pricks. We would scrap a perfectly good pack, or stove, or canteen just because there was a new one that was 3 ounces lighter. We say shit like “ounces add up to pounds”. REI was built on the backs of our compulsions.

P,B & J Tom Takes a Break To Water His Dog

But, as a foodie, I was left with a dilemma. With the little stove and the little pots and the weightless foodstuff, how can you possibly make decent food? (I bet you were wondering how I was going to piece the technology food angle in – and it only took me 620 words). No quickie pies for me (apple sauce, bread and pie clamp are all too heavy). No pepperoni beans (onions, cans of beans, big pot – no, no, no). Might as well face it, backpacking food sucks. Right?

Kinda. Not really. Maybe. But modern technologies have certainly improved the options for lightweight foodstuffs, some of which I am going to detail below:

Pre-Cooked Bacon – The single greatest revelation I’ve had on the trail is the discovery of this boxed wünderkind of salted cured animal flesh. This stuff can live without refrigeration for a few days, it takes very little time (and fuel) to cook. To the depraved, over-exhausted mind of the trail rat it tastes as good as any bacon on a normal day. It’s light.

Freeze-Dried Fruits & Veggies – This stuff has been around for ever, but it just seems better these days. You can buy any assortment of veggies, mix them all up, put them in a baggie ready to dump into a powdered soup, powdered potatoes, mixed with chicken (see below) and curry powder. The potential uses are endless. A creative chef can actually make a palatable dish that is healthy to boot.

Vacuum-Sealed Meats – Getting protein on the trail has always been a challenge. Jerky was really the only game in town until recently. Now populating the shelves of the tuna aisle are fifty different varieties of tuna, salmon, chicken preserved and sealed in little packets that last for months. They are not light, but they are not heavy either. They sure beat freeze-dried meats, which simply don’t stand up as well as their veggie counterparts. Just toss a bag into pasta, curry or any other dish and you’ve got wholesome treat.

Powdered Eggs – Close enough to the real thing for scrambles and omelets – add meat and veggies to bolster.

Packaged Meals – Two kinds to consider here. First, at the camping store there are a few brands, and endless variety of add-water meals. I like to cook my own meals so I avoid the lasagnas and the beef stews. But the technology in this stuff has come a long way and dare I say, they’re not half bad. Especially desserts. In fact, I strongly encourage the desserts. Cobbler that weighs next to nothing – just add water – done deal.

The other type of packaged stuff is just on the shelves at the supermarket. I know, I’m always talking about sustainability and proper shopping, but for this purpose alone you might have to hit the schlocky stores. Whole Foods has a few lightweight treats, but apparently convenience and speeds are important to a lot of people cooking in this country. Safeway’s aisles are full of crap in boxes that can be prepared by just heating or adding hot water in under five minutes. Don’t forget to check out the packets of sauce available. Pesto? The intrepid chef could find a lot to work with here. In fact, I think this was a Top Chef challenge.

Next time you are hitting the trail and need to lighten the load, know that your options are plenty. Maybe after this trip I’ll post some recipes. Not quite sure how many of my readers are outdoorspeople. I suppose we’ll see by today’s reader stats.

Zealot Endorsement: SFGreenClean.com

Posted on July 30, 2009 by ezealot

I’m a pretty cynical guy. You might have noticed that I offer more criticism than praise. Perhaps I am en route to becoming a codger? Certainly naming my blog “Zealot” implies a particular fervor. I’ve mentioned before how much I loathe the current state of outsourced, impersonal customer service and I absolutely abhor the idea of corporate anything. I’m not often overwhelmingly impressed with much in this world.

In a brief departure from my food posts, I must rave about a service I recently discovered that exceeded my expectations far beyond mere contentment. I wanted to use my bully pulpit to advocate a new paradigm in dry cleaning. I want to introduce SFGreenClean.com [LINK].

I’ve never been a fan of dry cleaning. The cost and the waste is simply abhorrent. Plastic bags, hangers, chemicals – there was always something wrong. But what alternative? My girlfriends keep me in a respectable wardrobe. My shit’s gotsta look fine. Translation: I like to look fresh pressed.

I finally reached the end of my rope when I went through my closet last week and decided enough was enough. Way too many hangers, way too much plastic. I knew there had to be an alternative in this high-minded [read smug] town. [ASIDE] For a really good window on our smugness, see the South Park episode “Smug Alert” [LINK]. If you can’t laugh at yourself…….

It didn’t take long to find SFGreenClean – this web thing is pretty cool – might actually catch on. From start to finish the experience was eye-opening. The web site touts the number of hangers and bags saved. There is a hybrid delivery vehicle pictured (honestly I didn’t see what car the driver had) with a dude looking all happy. There is a lot of speak about non-toxic cleaning methods. It all sounded good.

I scheduled the pick-up for the same day and the driver was dead-on prompt. Like, 7pm, ding-dong, hello?!! He had a bag into which I stuffed all of my schwag. The next morning I logged back on to the site and every piece was input and detailed in their tracking system. I mean they had the brand name, size, color, measurements – wow. All of my clothes there to track. They even identified pit stains [ewww] and other nick and tears that were automatically repaired. They just took control.

Every detail of the process was shown online. At every step I could see where my clothes were and what was next to come. It was kind of fun to have such disclosure. Moreover, with all of this information, I will ultimately have a full inventory of my wardrobe once each piece cycles through the system. I’m not sure how I could use this data (perhaps tracking longevity or number of cleanings, etc), but it certainly can’t hurt.

When everything was completed, I received an email and I selected a delivery time. When the stuff arrived, it was on wooden hangers – wooden friggin hangers people!! Inside lovely cloth bags – lovely cloth bags people!! I assume I will ultimately return them as we proceed with future orders. There were no obvious instructions, but I’m sure if I weren’t so lazy I could find it online.

The biggest thing I noticed was that my clothing was REALLY clean – like age-old stains were gone. And the was no stanky-dry-clean smell. God I hate traditional dry cleaning smell. Gone. No more. Adios mofo.

There is no doubt that I am paying a huge premium for this luxury. But I have to say that I’ve been lulled into a state of bliss, so much so that I never checked the charges. I really don’t care. If I have to cut out some other luxury, it is worth the cost. I’ve found the perfect cleaners. Now take it from the Zealot and get you yours.

Can Costco Go Green?

Posted on July 22, 2009 by ezealot

I’ve been reading some interesting articles about how Costco is taking the step into Green. I think it is inevitable that we will see corporate bandwagoning of the Green movement, but have always been skeptical that they could pull it off effectively. Let’s be real…..at this point, there is a major difference between espousing “Green” and true sustainability.

Actually let’s explore that a little, particularly for those who aren’t caught up with their reading. You might think that going green is as simple as buying the “recycled” toilet paper from Safeway. Not even close, bub! To truly understand sustainability one must trace the origins of their consumption all the way to the source, and consider all elements along the way. How much energy does the manufacturing process take? What materials are used at the expense of producing this product? What waste is generated? How is the product packaged and transported? What fossil fuels are consumed as a result? The list goes on and on.

This might seem a bit obsessive-compulsive and, in many cases, impossible. But if we don’t ask, we’ll never know. Corporations have sought to hide these things from us so that we don’t fully appreciate the true costs of our consumption and therefore accept the status quo. One could argue that the nature of the financial structure of corporate-anything is inconsistent with sustainability, but I believe that is a battle for future generations. Our goal should be focused on laying the seed for change. And our first mission is to fully understand the important details of what we consume.

In the age of sustainability, manufacturers who really own the idealism will volunteer this information to distinguish themselves and to help facilitate your decisions. Case in point: look at your eggs in the supermarket. Cage-free this, free range that – it’s all marketing hype in reaction to our growing concern over animal treatment. But……when you come across the real deal, they certainly let you know. Here is what TLC Ranch says about their eggs:

Eggs are certified organic by California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), as of January 15, 2009.

Similar to the pigs, our laying hens are moved around 20 acres of certified organic pasture using mobile chicken coops. Using electric mesh fencing, they are given about 1.5 acres at a time and moved about 200 times a year so they always have fresh, green, growing vegetation to eat as well as plentiful bugs (chickens are not vegetarians).

Predation is prevented through the use of electric fencing and an amazing livestock guard dog, an Italian breed called the Maremma, named Angel. We strive never to kill native predators as we feel they are a vital part of the ecosystem.

Chicken feed is also from Modesto Milling and is certified organic. Ingredients include corn, wheat, soy, kelp, limestone, and vitamins and minerals. Chickens are also given organic brewers grains and organic waste vegetables to diversify their diet and keep our feed costs down. Granite grit and oyster shells are provided at all times to aid in digestion and keep calcium levels up in the hens.

Hens are kept for about two years then sold live to local folks. We are exploring the possibility of processing the hens in order to produce chicken stock and chicken sausage as well.

Beaks are tipped (which is less severe than clipping) by the farm that broods the certified organic chicks for us so they don’t peck each other severely while they are in the brooding phase. (Brooding is the raising of chicks to about 18 weeks old where they are provided with warmth until they have fully feathered out.) We then get the laying hens at 18 weeks old, and put them out on pasture where they will spend the rest of their lives. We do no other body modifications to the birds. We look forward to the day when we have the land tenure and infrastructure to brood our own chicks exactly how we want.

That’s a bit more information than “free range”. And they make damn good eggs. Another great example is “grass fed”. The term is starting to bounce around a little too freely these days. Sometimes it only means that the animals were fed grass for brief periods of their lives. They still suffer from a primarily, and unnaturally, corn-and-antibiotic-fed diet. But the serious ranchers once again stand out with descriptions like: 100% grass-fed, pasture raised, etc. Over time, you get to know the buzzwords and the bullshit becomes clear.

This brings me to Costco. I decided, in fairness, to give it a visit. It has been so long and just like my Trader Joe’s post, I needed to see for myself. I was actually surprised that their basic language seems sensible. They talk a lot about dye-free, biodegradable, cruelty-free, plant based, etc. In most aisles, there was an alternative to chemical-laden counterparts. They also had a lot of gadgetry such as solar panels, LED lights and such. And even some local-supported brands, like ACME breads.

Don’t get me wrong. I called Trader Joe’s a whore. Costco is a chain of brothels containing thousands of whores by comparison. But I see their efforts as positive. First, the concept of buying in bulk is appealing. I’ve heard a lot of disrespect paid to Costco for selling gallons of this and flats of that….but if it reduces packaging in any way, I’m for it, as long as their isn’t increased waste. And be certain their effort to go green is riddled with problems, most of which likely stem from their manufacturing process, packaging and transportation.

But what does it really mean when Costco is actively touting Green products? It means that Green has a voice. The boardrooms are hearing the cry and finding a way to capitalize on it. It’s a start. Sustainability is a long long long way off, but it has to begin somewhere. If Green is the precursor to sustainability, it’s foothold in the Costcos, Sam’s Clubs, Walmarts and Targets of the world is entirely essential. Not necessarily for San Francisco where we can easily eat in Slow-Food restaurants every night for a year without repeating or shop at a Farmer’s Market just about any day. But for the world outside of this bubble, where the ideals of sustainability are simply unfathomable [for now].

So, while I won’t likely be back to Costco more than a once or twice this year, I encourage those who live elsewhere, and seek to improve their impact, to start by changing the toilet paper, dish soap, laundry detergent to these Green products. Of course it doesn’t end there and the ideals of a truly sustainable food system and manufacturing complex should remain our goals, ultimately, no matter where you live.

The End of an Affair with Trader Joes

Posted on July 8, 2009 by ezealot

We were once in love. It started, like most loves, at a time when I was more naive than now….

I’ve had a sorted past with supermarkets. I can’t say that I ever paid much attention to who or why before I was twenty five. Back then it was in and out, a quick fix. I wasn’t loyal. Casel’s and Party Pak in Margate, Shop Rite in Philadelphia, Schnuck’s in St. Louis, Upim in Rome. I couldn’t tell you a thing about them, faceless names from my past. They certainly served a need, and may have even facilitated some artistic accomplishments. But they, I regret to say, meant very little me.

supermarket

It wasn’t until I moved to Boulder, Colorado in the early 90s that I started to pay more attention to my markets. It all started with the legendary Alfalfa’s. She was the queen of Boulder and I was a young, strong-willed, naive buck, who needed to be tamed. Here is how we met:

I moved to Boulder without a dime to my name. I chose Boulder because I had a place to crash and a ride from St. Louis, where I had been living with my girlfriend as she finished up at Washington U. I knew little about the place. I arrived at the end of the school year and there was chaos on campus. Kids were smoking pot in the streets. Parties raged at all hours. There were a lot of smelly white kids with dreadlocks and trust funds. I was clearly out of my element.

During the first few days I planned my escape from this crazy place many times. My ex comforted me and convinced me to stay. Go out and explore a little bit. Get settled. So I set out in search of a supermarket to stock up on some supplies. I hunted around “the Hill” where there were nothing but corner stores, bars and restaurants. In a bar that smelled of stale beer a young waitress with the requisite dreads and jean-shorts pointed me down The Hill. Alfalfa’s dude.

When I entered Alfalfa’s I started looking for some bread and peanut butter. Scant money. Simple. I navigated aisle upon aisle of bulk foods, herbal teas, asymmetrical produce, bins and barrels overflowing with quinoa and flaxseed. Where the peanut butter should have been was a grinder with fresh peanuts. Ew. That ain’t skippy. There were jars of almond butter, tahini and $5 jars of “peanut butter “with a thick pool of oil on the top. I just wanted some damn skippy – super chunk. I was ready to cry. Don’t even get me started on the bread.

This was my rude awakening to the conscious age of enlightened shopping. And while Alfalfa’s taught me much, I was still young and stubborn. I ultimately left it for Ideal Market in North Boulder, a gentler market, which was near the community gardens where I supplemented my food supply by growing my own. These were wonderful, wild and free times. I never grew dreads, but I did own plenty of jean-shorts and often smelled.

Then I moved to the big city. After Boulder, everyone went to San Francisco. It was at the peak of the .com era and there was an energy I’ve never experienced before. Rents were outrageous and occupancy was at 100%. I had to interview with hoards of others to score a room in a flat in the Mission. Everyone was talking about their internet startup, stock options, riding scooters in their office, free lunches and Trader Joes. Trader Joes was the young, cool place to shop – I wanted in!

TJs captured the energy of the Bay Area at that time by thinking outside the box. We were reinventing the economy, so why not the supermarket? They worked out crazy deals to repackage and brand foods so that everything had a TJs vibe. Most things tasted pretty good. Their wine was cheap. They had an eye for the exotic and also the familiar. For a while, I was a serious TJs devotee. As a single guy, it wasn’t hard to survive on TJs alone. My needs were filled. I was in love.

As the years went by I found myself relying on TJs less and less. Like any relationship, we reached a level of comfort and the spark was gone. TJs was part of a routine. It became a stop in my cycle of marketing that included Safeway (which I dropped years ago) for essentials and Mollie Stones (I moved too far away) for gourmet goods. I couldn’t quite make the leap to Whole Foods at first, but ultimately I gave in and then they opened one up in my neighborhood, Potrero Hill. Maybe it reminded too much of Alfalfa’s, which I had psychologically left behind (note Alfalfa’s was purchased by Wild Oats, which ultimately was purchased by Whole Foods). For a long time, I was on autopilot and I was ok.

But then came sustainability. Oh, darn you conscience! To the enlightened mind, even Whole Food looks tainted (though I am definitely seeing them make an effort, but that’s another post). It had been a few months since I hit TJs and I’ve avoided putting it under the microscope. Today I walked the aisles, sad to know that we’ve reached the end. For all its ingenuity, TJs just hasn’t evolved. Packaging on top of packaging. Goods shipped in from all over the globe. Processed foodstuffs that rival the Safeways and CalMarts of the world. We cannot turn a blind eye to your indiscretions anymore TJs. You’re kind of a whore.

It saddens me, because I know, TJs, you could be so much more. If you just turned your eye toward the sun you could pioneer a new way. It would be a major shift, but isn’t it worth the effort? Sigh. I suppose I’ll pop in now and again to see how you’re doing, out of nostalgia. You do have the best prices on Barbara’s cereals (which my son loves). Your frozen mac-n-cheese, while loaded with way too much non-foods, is really divine and worth as an infrequent treat (but I will not continue to serve it to my son twice weekly). Maybe I’ll come and stock up on chips and nitrate free hot dogs for parties now and then. If I can find parking, that is.

And….. if you decide to change your ways, you can always find me at the Farmer’s Market.

Living Without Food: My Cleanse Experience

Posted on July 1, 2009 by ezealot

At the end of last year I embarked upon my first long-term cleanse. It was the “Master Cleanse” or “lemonade diet” whereby you eat no solid food and acquire your only calories in the form of a drink consisting of water, lemon juice, maple syrup and cayenne pepper, for at least ten days, up to three weeks or more. There is a lot of debate surrounding the Master Cleanse and I find the arguments incredibly intriguing. Since I wasn’t writing the Zealot at the time and I’ve had a lot of time to process my experience, I feel this is as good a time as any to share my experiences.

Celebrities Use the MC to Lose Weight Fast

Essentially the MC is a controlled form of starvation. Common sense would lead you to believe that this wasn’t a rational endeavor from the get-go. The concoction drink is designed to provide just enough calories to feed your basic needs (anywhere from 600-1200 calories per day depending on how large you are and how intense you are cleansing), while your body ultimately turns on itself and starts burning your natural fat reserves. One of the immediate results (I’ll refrain from calling it a benefit for now) is rapid weight loss. In the 10 days that I did the MC, I lost 15lbs. Many people do this cleanse solely for the purpose of losing weight fast. It works.

On the cleanse side of things, the concoction contains lemon juice and cayenne, which supposedly act as agents to loosen and scrape your colon clean. The maple syrup is just a simple, digestible form of calories. The MC requires a nightly dose of herbal laxative tea and a morning flush with warm salt water. I sincerely believe that it is arguable whether toxins are actually being flushed since our bodies are already naturally designed to flush toxins. There is contentious debate about whether this actually does anything to aid the process. Some argue that it might have negative effects. Frankly, even the most learned doctors have little information to support either side of this debate.

So the daily routine goes like this….. Wake up and drink the warm salt water flush, about a quart. Wait an hour or so. Waterfall. More waterfall. Get ready for work. More waterfall. First batch of lemon concoction. Note that I preferred to cook my ingredients together and then put it over ice. It was much easier to drink all day, every day – less grainy. Continue about your day, drinking concoction as needed, especially when pangs set in. Dream about food. Before bed, drink a cup of Senna laxative tea. Repeat and repeat and repeat.

Master Cleanse Supplies

The first question people ask: didn’t you feel hungry? My answer was a resounding NO. This was the first discovery and insight I gained from performing the cleanse. During the first few days it was somewhat difficult, but I was excited by the experiment and after day three, my whole perspective changed. The biggest revelation I had with the MC is that we have NO IDEA what it means to be hungry. Rather, our bodies are conditioned to a societal ritual of consumption around breakfast, lunch, dinner and snack times. I certainly had cravings every day, especially during the times of the day when my body expected to be fed, but it wasn’t hunger. It became very clear that our bodies were designed to endure periods of famine, tapping into fat reserves to provide emergency energy. As a well-fed, often gluttonous, member of modern civilization, I could go a long, long time without feeling true hunger.

Which leads to revelation number two. During my controlled starvation, I’ve never felt more alert, energetic and inspired. My mind kicked in to overdrive and became more conversational, outgoing, interactive, creative and excited. It was a if a fog had been lifted and was able to experience life as never before. Which lead me to wonder why. While I couldn’t answer for certain, I have a feeling about it…..

Living with Evolution

Humankind has never had the abundance of food that we experience in modern times. As hunter-gatherers our ancestors always lived on the edge of starvation. They needed to be more in touch with their surroundings and alert to the perils of nature. We are simply over-fed, lazy and out of touch with our surroundings. We use food as a false comfort mechanism that actually serves the opposite purpose. A pint of ice cream to someone who is depressed will give an immediate rush but then they will sink into a food coma and find themselves deeper in their funk on the other side. As a long-term habit, over-eating (which isn’t only for the morbidly obese, most of us over-eat) creates the fog, under which many of us live, perhaps without even knowing.

At the end of my cleanse I truly had a new perspective on eating and vowed to change my habits, long term. Yes, I lost 15 pounds and perhaps I cleansed my colon (I did lose an undiagnosed, chronic case of IBS I had been toughing out for years). If you’re doing the cleanse for only these reasons, you’re missing out on the big picture.

Moreover, what I got out of the Master Cleanse was true insight into our propensity to over-eat and how we are conditioned to consume huge portions at regular intervals for no good reason. Living a little closer to the edge of hunger seems to be a good practice and I’ve read a number of scientific arguments that support this as a more natural state. I’ve heard that we should try to only eat until we are 80% full (true full, not bloated full). Until you experience the clarity of mind that goes along with this, it’s definitely hard to break our habits.

As for me, I’ve been up and down over the past six months. I definitely have reduced my overall consumption and my weight has remained under my high. But I think I need another dose of the MC to refresh my memory. If there is enough interest, I may document it here on the blog for all to share. I know (sometimes secretly) many of you are interested in the MC yourselves.

Food Inc. – Please Go Now.

Posted on June 16, 2009 by ezealot

I’m not the most polite person. But I am asking you please, please go see Food Inc. now.

It’s not that the movie has any revelations beyond Omnivore’s Dilemma or Fast Food Nation. It’s also not the most exciting movie you will see this year. In fact, you may gasp now and then.

But it could be the most important movie you see this year.

The reason is that the topic of sustainability in our food system is reaching a tipping point. The mainstream media has not caught on, but a few shooting stars are getting seen. Alice Waters has been everywhere in the past year. Michael Pollan is starting to be everywhere (did you catch him on Bill Mahr?).

By seeing this movie, you will help to get it distributed to more theaters. That’s how small films move. The money has to be there for the distributor to open up more markets. The buzz created can send it national and receive the attention it deserves.

So, even if you have read the books and already know your local farmers by name, or, if you’re remotely interested in learning more about corporate agri-business, processed foods, feedlot conditions, or, you’d like to put a face to the names like Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms (what a character!) – go see the film.

A brief review: unfortunately the film suffers to comparison with Omnivore’s Dilemma, which is much more thorough on the subject. At times it felt like I was only getting a window into the massive problem. Still, the window that Food Inc. opens it incredibly important for reaching a greater mass of people who are completely unaware of what they are putting into their bodies and the resulting effects.

The film was beautifully shot and is supplemented with some of the best graphics I’ve seen in documentary filmmaking. The story holds up but gets a little jumpy here and there. There are plenty of impact moments, particularly with the story of Kevin’s law (I won’t give it away). You cannot walk away from this film feeling good about eating processed foods or corn-fed animals.

At the least, I hope this film inspires people to read the books for a more detailed understanding of the problem. It’s not that I am so compassionate towards others. I’ve often felt that if people want to wallow in their ignorance and gorge themselves on Pepsi and MacDonalds, so be it. But there are two issues with that. (1) People are unaware because there is deception. If our government produces food guidelines that benefit giant corporations, there is something very wrong. (2) The only way that my son will have better chance in the future is if there is a mass demand for sustainably produced food.

So, please, go see the movie. Put your thinking caps on. Read the books. There’s gonna be a lot more of this to come from me.

Gialina Review: I Ain’t Buying It!

Posted on June 12, 2009 by ezealot

Gialina Menu

Here comes a rant…… I ain’t buying it! When I read Alan Richman’s article “American Pie” I was floored to learn that there was a pizza place in San Francisco that made his top 25 IN THE COUNTRY (YES ALL CAPS) and I haven’t been there! How could it be? If anyone knows the pizza of San Francisco, especially Neapolitan style, it’s me, right? You read my blog, you know.

I dug further. Michael Bauer raved in his “Pizza Friday” blurb in 2007. Then he did it again in 2009. I searched my back-issues of Tablehopper and found mentions on Sep 18 2007, Nov 13 2007, Mar 4 2008, Aug 12 2008, Mar 31 2009 and May 26 2009. Marcia calls it “one of her favs”. I started to think that if I was ever going to do this blog justice, I might have to abandon my business and search for pizza night and day.

Of course I had to go. I took one of my pizza compadres, BH, and our lady-folk along and journeyed to exotic Glen Park. I was gonna have great pizza! But I didn’t. Sorry, no intent to offend. No disrespect to Marcia, Michael or Alan – but you’re all crazy. The pizza at Gialina simply doesn’t hold up.

Given, the place is very charming, especially for Glen Park. It’s modern, clean and bustling. There are lots of windows and it feels very inviting. The clientele seems generally proud and excited to eat there. We had a number of people tell us we were in for a treat. It felt cultish, which furthered my embarrassment that Gialina was off my radar.

Gialina Wall Photograph

We started with meatballs, covered with provolone. I found the balls to be tasty enough, but they were drowned in sauce and cheese. Lose the sauce, lose the cheese. If you’re making good meat, showcase the meat. Which brings me to their antipasti plate, filled with Boccalone goods. I’ve said it before – I’m just not bowled over by Boccalone. For some reason it worked better at Beretta, but here the accouterments and presentation just lacked. It wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t all that good.

The best app they served was “Long Cooked Romano Beans w/ preserved lemon”. I commented that it reminded me of Italy. Seriously, it was one of those experiences that transports you straight to the heart of a Roman trattoria. I can’t say the same of the “Leaf Lettuces w/ cherries, goat cheese & pistachios”. All I could muster was ‘meh’. The little gems looks infiinitely better and I was sorry for taking the waitress’s suggestion.

Gialina Margarita

But this was about pizza. I was going to have one of the best 25 pizzas in America. All is forgiven. Bring on the pie. We ordered the margarita, which is my reference point pie, despite the waitress’s comment that it wasn’t her favorite. We did try her favorite and the reason for the GQ kudos, “Wild Nettles w/ Boccalone pancetta, mushrooms, red onions & provolone”.

I must preface my comments with some information. In 2004 the Italian government drew up a series of laws to protect the integrity of pure Neapolitan pizza making. You can read an article from the BBC here. This is the standard for which I base my opinions of this style of pizza. It comes as a result of generations of tradition and they really got it right. Everything from acidity and sweetness in the tomatoes to fat content of the cheese, the temperature of the oven and the resulting smokiness and pliability of the crust are all considered. If you’re interested in learning more, a school is opening in North Beach by America’s premier Pizzaiolo, Tony Gemignani, called the International School of Pizza. I’m signing up for a class. I’m building a wood-fired oven in my backyard.

So, back to Gialina. The crust was the most troubling element. It was yeasty, dense and a little chewy. I’ve had this happen to me when I pick up a Trader Joe’s dough that was from an off-batch. So, perhaps tonight they were working with sub par goods? It just wasn’t right. Still, neither the sauce or the cheese worked (look at the photo). It seems that pizzerias are skimping more and more on the cheese. Bad move. Not too much, but NEVER too little.

Gialina Nettle Pizza

Then we tried the famed nettle creation. Same problem with the dough. The nettles were fine and tasty. The pancetta was nice. I didn’t really get the addition of mushroom and all-combined it was an acceptable pie. But best in the country? Not even close. Maybe best in Glen Park. Maybe best South of Piccino. But not even close to best in the city. Nate Appleman could dance circles around this pie. Craig Stoll makes better dough in his sleep (which may be also when he is awake because I don’t get much personality there – ouch).

I know I am a snob. But that’s what makes me a zealot. I have to have an opinion, and unfortunately today I’m not a fan of Gialina. No harm, no foul. Ok, I’m done. Rant over. Back to Mr. Nice Guy. Have a nice day.

Sustainability Overhaul: Step One

Posted on May 24, 2009 by ezealot

As I mentioned in earlier posts, I was very effected by Michael Pollan’s books and would like to make changes to our current diet. Julie and I actually eat somewhat close to the prescribed ideal. But Judah is another story. We’ve been very lazy with our approach to child food and, as a result, have been feeding him far too many non-whole-food products.

Without getting too soap-boxy (I’ll leave you to read the books and get specifics for yourselves), the problem is that much of the food we (as in Americans) consume each day is not actually food. Our “food system” has become a a vehicle for the delivery of processed ingredients, mostly corn-based, via food-like products. If you read the labels on your foodstuffs and it has more than five ingredients, or you don’t recognize most of the ingredients (don’t be fooled by words that sound familiar – broccoli is broccoli, tomatoes are tomatoes) chances are you are eating the very stuff that has made our nation so unhealthy and overweight.

Equally, if not more, troubling is that when we choose our meat, we must remember that we aren’t just getting nutrition from the meat itself. Rather, we must consider that we eat what our meat eats. Again, corn is a major culprit. You can read Pollan’s history of how corn became the defacto diet of our livestock, which is only part of the disturbing story here. Feedlot conditions, disease and antibiotics all paint a very scary portrait of industrial meat production. But most importantly, the negative effects have made their way into our diet. Cows were meant to eat grass and the dietary effects of that are tantamount to creating a more sustainable and healthy diet for my family.

What also surprised me, and is prompting my change, is that even if you are shopping at Whole Foods, you are not exempt from these problems. I’ve been a holier-than-thou Whole Foods junkie for years. Unfortunately, organic corn-based processed foods are very present in much of the offerings on their shelves and their meat, eggs and dairy are not necessarily all that pious. I thought that WF was watching my back but sadly it seems that they are not terribly distant from the same problems that plague the likes of traditional supermarkets. Being “organic” just isn’t enough.

So what does all of this mean for me and my family? As I said, I have to trust that you have read or will read the books to understand the breadth of reasons why we are making these decisions. And, I am not a person of extremes. Our lives are simply too busy to eat every meal from more-than-organic farms and pastured 100% grass-fed meats. This is the goal, but the reality needs to be more flexible.

With that, I’d like to chronicle my attempts by posting the specific trials and tribulations of a family attempting sustainability. Today we’ve made the first step. We used to receive a weekly delivery from Planet Organics, which we are now resuming. I am trying to vette them as much as possible, which is not an easy process. From what I can tell, they support local, sustainable farmers, including Marin Sun Farms Meats, which is 100% grass-fed. Still, I’d like to know more about the specific farms they support and the processes of those farms. The devil is in the details.

Additionally, I will still need to shop at Whole Foods or Rainbow Grocery, but with a much keener eye than before. Gone are the days of believe the low-fat hype. No longer will I grab boxes with health claims and food-like substances just because in-Whole-Foods-we-trust! I feel empowered and will not fall pray to the bullshit that has encumbered our society, unless I choose to (which those who know me, know that I have a soft-spot for junk food and am fully aware of my shortcomings!).

Lastly, the farmer’s markets of the Bay Area provide the best way to connect with my food sources and I plan to expand my horizons to include Alemany (yeah Nicole!) and Berkeley (yeah Cristina!). I’ve been a Ferry Building fan since inception, but my wallet suffers each week and I need additional resources.

It won’t be easy to break Judah of his chicken-dinosaur, fish-stick, hot dog, pizza, spaghetti and macaroni & cheese diet. But if we learned anything from Greece is that with patience and the right timing, he’ll open up to other foods. In the interest of his carbon and nitrogen composition, and avoiding the epidemics of type-2 diabetes, heart disease and cancer, we need to break out of the corn-based diet and bring real foods into his life. Our lives.

On My Way Home: Fresh Fish!

Posted on May 21, 2009 by ezealot

Internet has been spotty at our last jaunt on the island of Milos. We’ve been driving through the construction zone that is burying the new high-speed line as we come and go to our villa in Pollonia. Food has been straightforward Greek here, nothing to write home about, yet consistently good. This is the first time we’ve really been able to indulge in fresh fish though, which is an interesting conundrum.

Fish Close Up

I’ve never been to an island culture before that made eating fish so prohibitive. The average fish is 40-100 euros per kilo, which quickly adds up. We’ve heard claims that the Mediterranean is over-fished. Some say that only the best line-caught fish are sold fresh in restaurants and the rest is frozen. Whatever the case, eating fish is more of a luxury than a staple to the Greek diet, which came as a surprise.

More importantly, for the first time in a number of years, I’m not looking forward to coming home right now. Since introducing a young child in the mix, traveling has presented new challenges. I’ve uniformly been ready to return to the comforts of home on our jaunts to Mexico, Spain and Ecuador. But now that Judah is four, he’s starting to participate in the experience of the traveling more and it’s a lot of fun. I can’t wait to show him more of this wonderful world!

Judah in Greece

Lastly, I am excited and nervous about how I am going to maintain the reinforced, and new, principles I am taking from Michael Pollan. After finishing Omnivore’s Dilemma I immediately devoured In Defense of Food (click to buy) and don’t think I can look at the supermarket in the same way. I was a Whole Foods devotee and my eyes are now wide open to the fact that the industrial food complex is not limited to the traditional food system. I cannot stress how important it is to read these books. Do yourself the favor…

I am hopeful that I can keep up with my posts at home. Running a more-than-full-time career requires a lot of time. But I love the energy generated by my food posts. Help me spread the word and give me suggestions for posts and I’ll be motivated to keep it up. I’ll see you back in the states in a few days. And I’ll be reviewing Flour & Water as soon I return.

The Santorini Paradox

Posted on May 15, 2009 by ezealot

This rant is a departure from food for a moment. If you haven’t noticed, what my blog is really about is my lifestyle. Food happens to be my greatest passion. Travel is a close second with reading and music not far behind. These things really all come together when I am living in balance. I consider myself a hedonist, which is best defined as “a school of philosophy which argues that pleasure has an ultimate importance and is the most important pursuit of humanity”. This is my ‘religion’.

Oia Blue Villa, Santorini, Greece

Santorini has me in a frenzy. I want to love it. I want to cherish it as the most stellar geological freak, window-into-history, nature-kicks-everyone’s-ass, mind-fuck on the planet. It is all of that, and more. The deeper I dig into the history the more I am intrigued and the more I want to learn. The longer I stare out into the caldera, which is my current view as I write this from my balcony at the Oia Blue Villa (pictured above), the longer I want to drift in amazement at how insignificant we are compared to the power of this earth.

But then there’s the fucking tourists. I know, let’s just get it out of the way….I am a hypocrite and an elitist. What gives me the right to claim superiority over any other traveler? Who am I to judge someone else and feel that my experience is more valid or just than theirs? I have no right to judge others when I myself am a tourist. Herein lies the paradox. I get that. I own it. But I still feel it and I don’t apologize for it.

For the uninitiated, Santorini was a honking volcano in the middle of the Mediterranean until around 1600BC. It was also a major outpost for the Minoan civilization, which pre-dated the Greeks and vied for power against the Myceneans. Until the thing blew up. I mean the whole island popped it’s lid and left nothing but the edges of the mountain (the rim) and a vast sinkhole (the caldera) that spans 18 km at it’s widest point. This was the 2nd largest volcanic eruption in the history of humankind. The first was 73,000 years ago and left only 10,000 people on the planet. Look at the aerial shot and you’ll get the picture.

Aerial View of Santorini

I’ve been to a lot of cool places on earth. I’ve seen many geological wonders. But this place takes the cake. Where else can you witness the raw force of nature at such a scale up close so accessibly? And the Greeks don’t mess around. They’ve built villages all along the inside of the rim. Stunning white villa/caves sit precariously on the edge of the abyss with winding stairways, cafés, terraces and infinity pools that scoff at the 700ft tsunami that rose from here 3600 years ago and destroyed Crete. It’s tasteful, yet alarming.

The cruise ships pull up to the harbor and a stream of tour buses pick up the pods and drop them off in the various villages, Oia being the most scenic and sunsettyful. The pathways in Oia are very narrow, which means it gets tight. The presence of the crowds is palpable, and this isn’t even close to high-season now. In July and August the place swells by multiples with throngs of people, 10 cruise ships at a time and nearly overflows into the volcano. And it’s not the type of tourist that ‘gets-it’. It’s the cruise-ship, packaged tourist, all-you-can-eat-buffet, day-excursion, barely-get-your-hands-dirty-with-the-local-culture stuff that I abhor. Mix that with Germans and Italians having their party holidays and add in a nice stream of backpacker-ouzo-thump-thump-full-moon-ravers. And again, I know, I am an unapologetic hypocrite and an elitist. Tough.

Cruise Ships in Santorini Caldera

Scholarly types are pointing at Santorini as the most logical location for the legend of Atlantis. Plato provides the most lucid account of this mythical city, now under the sea. It would make sense that a Greek story actually occurred in Greece, considering their somewhat limited world-view at the time. Standing here I understand how it is possible. Much of his writing about Atlantis matches the place well.

But moreover, the metaphors in Plato’s tale of Atlantis strike me.”When the human nature got the upper hand” (Plato, Critias 121b), they became sinful and invaded by crimes. As a consequence, they were bound to loose their paradise. Maybe all this tourism is building up to something and we’re supposed to be lured here so that badass mother-earth can bitch-slap as many people as possible, during a full-moon party while all the cruise ships are having Mexico theme night.

So, again, the Paradox. I’m still looking out on the caldera. I just had an hour conversation with our villa’s concierge who is a South African transplant and manages a crop of luxury properties on Santorini. But she totally gets it and agrees. Yet, she moved here. She’s so drawn to the primitive power of her Atlantis, that the shlock are just a manageable nuisance that clog her paradise for a few months a year. AND, they enable her by providing buckets of cash for her thriving business.

For me, I am storing away the images and emotions so I can recall them when the world feels small. I doubt I will return here. I’ve got my slice of Atlantis and my ship sails tomorrow (no, its not a cruise ship, wiseass).

Required Reading: Omnivore’s Dilemma

Posted on May 11, 2009 by ezealot

Omnivore's Dilemma

People have been telling me since the 2006 publication of Omnivore’s Dilemma that I must read it. Unfortunately the choices I make to manage my time on a daily basis have excluded reading. Next to food and travel, reading is a top passion of mine and I plan to reintroduce it as a regular element in my life. Fortunately when I travel I inhale books, so I try to catch up every time I’m on the road.

On this trip I’ve finally gotten to Michael Pollan’s masterwork. While all of the themes he discusses are quite familiar to me, the level of detail, investigation, history and insight makes Omnivore’s Dilemma a veritable textbook for anyone who eats. His research into the industrial food complex and pastoral farming are essential in aiding the choices we make at the supermarket, farmer’s market on in our own backyards.

I’ll get on my soapbox another time. I’d like to start a category specifically to discuss sustainable eating. I have a lot to say. But for now, let’s all get on the same page and read Omnivore’s Dilemma. If you have, post a comment about your experience. If you haven’t, pick it up and let me know.

Purchase The Omnivore’s Dilemma: HERE

Meatpaper at Camino [Fight for your Corndog!]

Posted on May 1, 2009 by ezealot

The other night I was invited by my friend Yaella to join her for round three of my birthday celebrations at an event sponsored by Meatpaper magazine. The main draw for me was an opportunity to enjoy a growing trend of the whole-animal movement. Creative chefs find ways to utilize the entire animal in their cuisine, saving waste and pushing the limits of their skills. Pork was to be butchered and served. I was excited as there simply is no better animal to dissect and consume as a whole.

Upon arriving we were greeted and told there was liquor in the front, meat in the back. We queued up for some fancy cocktails that went down way too easily. I immediately noticed that there were way way too many people for my liking. When it comes to food events you’ve got to have a lot of passed nibbles or I’ll start to get surly. It seemed like everybody was well on their way to being surly.

There were buffet tables set up that had scant traces of pork, by means of Fatted Calf terrine, which was rustic and earthy – they never disappoint. Further down the table there was a curious vegetarian offering of potato salad next to a snap pea and asparagus salad. They were tasty and plentiful, but not why anyone had come. Lastly there were unidentified slices of Perbaco salumi of various hues and a bacon marshmallow that Yaella and I agreed would be best served on top of a sweet potato or root vegetable soup. I kept thinking to myself, if this is all we’re eating the natives will get restless.

Camino has a kicking kitchen. I’ve yet to eat off their regular menu, but I suspect I’ll return just to witness their use of the screaming fire pit. Apparently there was some butchering at one point in the evening. That would have been nice to see. Now, there was only a sea of people jostling, reaching and scavenging. It wasn’t pretty. At one point I saw a tray of five corn dogs sneak over the counter and a fight nearly broke out. A massive guy lunged over a spritely hippy chick as she slid the last dog from the tray and darted into the crowd. He looked like he was going to hit her.

This went on for another hour or so until I gave up hope that we would eat at all. I did manage to try some of the pork loin crostini (I think) and some lard-laced cookies. One benefit of everyone hovering at the kitchen was that the bar remained relatively empty. I got shitfaced.

Ultimately we toughed it out and enjoy some solid East-Bay people. But in the end we were still hungry so we slogged across the bridge and ended the night at Beretta!

The Birthday Month [Starts with Taylor's]

Posted on April 24, 2009 by ezealot

I turned 40 yesterday. My wife turns 40 and my son turns four next week (I know, we’re all Taureans – ouch). Rather than have a blowout celebration that would leave me hungover, only amplifying my growing limitations, we decided to spread things out. For the next four weeks we’ll be celebrating in small venues with assorted compadres and treating ourselves to indulgences here and there. Oh yeah, and most of it will be in Greece.

I plan to use the Blog as a travelogue to not only document our culinary encounters, but to also dump some of my pent-up thoughts on the passage of time, ancient cultures, religion and lack thereof, our my aging body and our relationship with nature. Heavy stuff, eh? Of course I’ll lace it with plenty of swear words and cynicism.

But, before we get serious, the festivities started last night with a kick-off at Taylor’s Refresher in the Ferry Building. What’s interesting about this is that we chose Taylor’s because we wanted a kid-friendly place, where the adults could also drink. Surprisingly there aren’t many places where 4-year olds can run around with reckless abandon while Mom and Dad tie one on. It’s a sad state, frankly. In the past we’ve gone to Axis Café and the café in the Bakar Fitness Center (ho hum). I think there is a concept restaurant here (maybe the Applebees and the Olive Garden have a purpose?).

Anyway, nothing much to report except solid fast-food with good people. I recommend the sweet potato fries (without the chili, sorry guys, it was gross), the onion rings (perfect amount of sea salt on them), the Ahi Burger astounds and the treat of the night was poaching the kids mini corn dogs – oh yum. Of course their shakes and burger are also great, but you already knew that.

The stand out of the evening was courtesy of my lovely wife……Banana Cream Tart from Tartine. This thing is off the charts. The texture of the cream reminds me of a merengue with the flavor of a custard. The bananas somehow remain fresh and crisp in all of the goop, the slivers of chocolate add even more pleasure and the crust is a tried and true winner (the same they use with their stellar quiche).

Thanks to the ‘gang-with-littlens’ – it was fun. I can’t wait to dive into my upcoming posts. We are leaving this afternoon for a jaunt to Napa, staying at the Bardessonno , a new luxurious spa where our friend consulted on the guest experience.

The Epicurean Zealot

An opinion-laden guide to San Francisco's culinary culture.

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